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Everything is 100% perfect until you pull out and accelerate hard. Once it revs past 4000 RPM, its like a rev limiter kicks in and then it surges, turns on trans light (P1775) and sometimes engine light. Goes in limp home mode. I ordered a crankshaft position sensor (oem). Ideas? Shut the car off, clear code and all is perfect until you rev past 4000 RPM while driving under a load. Revving in park causes not problem.
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1995 XJ6(added by GGG)
Last edited by GGG; Apr 3, 2018 at 06:34 PM.
Reason: Add vehicle details
But easier to swap the fuel pump relay as it my be compromised on the internal power contacts .
The short vacuum line behind the Fuel Pressure Regulator ( next to the fuel rail ) that increases fuel pressure so it won't underfuel at the higher RPMs .
Do you have the supercharged engine ?
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Apr 3, 2018 at 07:25 PM.
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
I am attaching the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Summaries manual below.
DTC P1775 indicates a possible transmission problem and instructs us to check for any stored Transmission Control Module (TCM) DTCs. Since you haven't noted any other TCM DTCs, have you checked the level and condition of the fluid in your transmission? To check the level properly, drive the car at speed for 15 minutes or more to get the fluid hot. Park on a level surface, and with the hand brake set and your foot on the brake pedal, move the gearshift lever to Reverse for 3 seconds, then through all the other gear positions pausing for at least 3 seconds. Move the lever back to Park and check the fluid level. It should be exactly at the HOT mark on the dipstick. Fluid that is low or overfull, or dark and burned can lead to transmission performance problems.
Welcome to the Jaguar Forums! It's great to have you with us.
I am attaching the Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) Summaries manual below.
DTC P1775 indicates a possible transmission problem and instructs us to check for any stored Transmission Control Module (TCM) DTCs. Since you haven't noted any other TCM DTCs, have you checked the level and condition of the fluid in your transmission? To check the level properly, drive the car at speed for 15 minutes or more to get the fluid hot. Park on a level surface, and with the hand brake set and your foot on the brake pedal, move the gearshift lever to Reverse for 3 seconds, then through all the other gear positions pausing for at least 3 seconds. Move the lever back to Park and check the fluid level. It should be exactly at the HOT mark on the dipstick. Fluid that is low or overfull, or dark and burned can lead to transmission performance problems.
Cheers,
Don
Fluid is good. Tranny is fine. The P1775 set due to difference in engine speed vs vehicle speed. Fuel filter has already been changed. Non supercharged. It literally feels like someone takes the battery cable off the battery and puts it back on and then off and then on real quickly above 4000 RPM like it's hitting a rev limiter. If you get out of the throttle it will drive fine in limp home mode. Shut the car off clear the p1775 start the car up and it will drive absolutely normally until you try to go above 4000 RPM. Several online sources were leading to a crankshaft position sensor going bad
But easier to swap the fuel pump relay as it my be compromised on the internal power contacts .
The short vacuum line behind the Fuel Pressure Regulator ( next to the fuel rail ) that increases fuel pressure so it won't underfuel at the higher RPMs .
Do you have the supercharged engine ?
I will check out the relay (#5) and the vacuum line for the fuel pressure regulator.
Unloaded throttle up past 4000 vs. 4000 loaded points in the direction of fuel starvation or constricted strength of spark . The spark air gap resistance in the piston cylinder increases with air pressure in a mechanically resistive high load . All coils get there power though 1 wire ( White / Pink in position 4 ) that goes through the Papa Indy 1 connector commonly corroded that sits under the wiper fluid fill cap .
Oil in the coil well would fail the spark positions at different times and not all at once .
Suggest inspect and clean that connector and the one next to it . If you need part source for the connector I have a source and cheap , need both sides . As a temporary fix and troubleshooting aid you can jumper around that connector or just pull power from the B + terminal post from the RH engine fuse box . The fuse for the coils is fuse # 12 / 10 amp RH engine fuse box and there is a connector on the very bottom of the fuse box as you unbolt it .
I could be wrong , my mom said I need to go to bed now
Last edited by Lady Penelope; Apr 3, 2018 at 11:22 PM.
Unloaded throttle up past 4000 vs. 4000 loaded points in the direction of fuel starvation or constricted strength of spark . The air gap resistance in the piston cylinder increases in a high load . All coils get there power though 1 wire ( White / Pink in position 4 ) that goes through the Papa Indy 1 connector commonly corroded that sits under the wiper fluid fill cap .
Oil in the coil well would fail the spark positions at different times and not all at once .
Suggest inspect and clean that connector and the one next to it . If you need part source for the connector I have a source and cheap , need both sides . As a temporary fix and troubleshooting aid you can jumper around that connector or just pull power from the B + terminal post from the RH engine fuse box . The fuse for the coils is fuse # 12 / 10 amp RH engine fuse box and there is a connector on the very bottom of the fuse box as you unbolt it .
So just connect B+ to the pink/white wire? I already replaced the valve cover gasket because 3 spark plug wells were filling with oil and causing random misfires. You wouldn't know the car has any issues if you never buried the throttle. Did I waste money ordering a Crankshaft Pos Sensor?
A spare CKPS sensor does't hurt and is a first try on alot of things as it controls alot and partially fails without showing a fault code . Have you swapped fuel pump relays ? The jumping of power to that wire will be hot at all times so arcing and battery drain awareness needed .
A spare CKPS sensor does't hurt and is a first try on alot of things as it controls alot and partially fails without showing a fault code . Have you swapped fuel pump relays ? The jumping of power to that wire will be hot at all times so arcing and battery drain awareness needed .
Which side of the plug leads to the coils? Don't want to hookup the B+ to the 12v switched source. Haven't swapped relays yet.
Revving in park causes not problem. _________________
1995 XJ6(added by GGG)
Easy...not so fast - there's a TSB (sorry, I can't find it right now or would post a link) but it cautions that revving beyond 2,000 in Park or Neutral can cause transmission damage.
Easy...not so fast - there's a TSB (sorry, I can't find it right now or would post a link) but it cautions that revving beyond 2,000 in Park or Neutral can cause transmission damage.
The transmission has no damage. I'm not sitting there and pegging it while in park. In fact, I need to correct my previous statement because it never reached 4000 rpm in park. It felt wrong to do that.
Pull the Papa Indy 1 connector apart and with the key on before starting check which side has the power on pin 4 with the White / Pink wire powered through the fuse . It will be the other connector half that has no power when it's apart .
This my not have a thing to do with it, but as I haven't heard anyone say much about the spark plugs. I will add this. I had a 750 Honda motorcycle, I got up and running after a long winters nap. I cleaned the fuel tank, carbs, checked the plugs, etc. All was good. Started first try, synchronized the carbs,etc. Put a leg over it, and accelerated up the street. It ran great till about 4500Rpm, then fell on it's face, sputtering and would not accelerate beyond 4500??? WTF. I rechecked everything, all was good, I checked the coils, the electronic ignition, resynchronized the carbs. Was told it ran great with no issues before it was put away for the winter??? After a couple weeks of checking and rechecking, I was asking questions of several friends, and one asked if it had platinum plugs in it. I said yeah it does, but what the he,double hockey sticks has that got to do with it??? He said change them out for standard plugs??? I thought he was nuts. But by now I was so frustrated I decided what the heck. I bought a set of "standard" NGK plugs screwed them in, and the thing liked to sacred me, it never missed spit sputtered or anything. It just ran! Like I said don't have a clue if this could be your problem or not Just thought it might help.
This my not have a thing to do with it, but as I haven't heard anyone say much about the spark plugs. I will add this. I had a 750 Honda motorcycle, I got up and running after a long winters nap. I cleaned the fuel tank, carbs, checked the plugs, etc. All was good. Started first try, synchronized the carbs,etc. Put a leg over it, and accelerated up the street. It ran great till about 4500Rpm, then fell on it's face, sputtering and would not accelerate beyond 4500??? WTF. I rechecked everything, all was good, I checked the coils, the electronic ignition, resynchronized the carbs. Was told it ran great with no issues before it was put away for the winter??? After a couple weeks of checking and rechecking, I was asking questions of several friends, and one asked if it had platinum plugs in it. I said yeah it does, but what the he,double hockey sticks has that got to do with it??? He said change them out for standard plugs??? I thought he was nuts. But by now I was so frustrated I decided what the heck. I bought a set of "standard" NGK plugs screwed them in, and the thing liked to sacred me, it never missed spit sputtered or anything. It just ran! Like I said don't have a clue if this could be your problem or not Just thought it might help.
The recommended plug for the X300 is linked below and is the standard cheap Champion RC12YC : Not the exotics as the platinum's are higher resistance as I was told and the iridium's are ( ? )
Firstly, like Aholbro1, I recollect a service bulletin regarding damage to the transmission from revving beyond 2000 in park. Can you say how you can be sure the transmission has no damage?
Secondly, revving beyond 4000rpm significantly increases the requirement for fuel. If your filter is needing changed, or your pump isnt in the first flush of youth, it may simply be that you are not getting sufficient fuel flow. As has been mentioned, the supercharged engine has a secondary fuel pump to address this phenomenon.
If you are suffering from fuel starvation, and the engine misfires, it wouldnt be too surprising to see assorted engine and transmission codes being thrown
Past 4000 RPM Breakup
