Noticed the motor shifted positions and looked under there and see I need to replace both mounts.

I can't seem to find much on this -- I'm wondering will the motor ( AJ16 ) comply easily when lifted?

Can this be done while it's still connected to the transmission?

I have both a "cherry-picker" lift and a floor jack.

Thank you

 

If you look at the aftmost clearance of the engine to the firewall , I don't believe there is much vertical lift to the engine before interference

Therefore I believe you keep the engine at the same height and lower the front suspension cross member

I have not done this job but have lowered the block and Trans for starter replacement

Engine block still tied to transmission has little upward space

https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre


https://www.jaguarclassicparts.com/u...-3-2-4-0-litre

 

Oh boy -- I see some info on XJ40 subframe dropping as well.
I better go ahead and plan to replace more items, like vee mounts, etc.

Thanks

 

Wait till others advice as the may slip out to replace Vs. height separation

Just guessing as a conversation starter to get things rolling

 

I am doing the job now. Anyone know if the rubber motor mounts use the same part # for each side? I'm getting a lot of conflicting info...

 

They have different part numbers

RH - MNA7520AA ↳MMB7520BA

LH - MNA7521AA

If you're dropping subframe, replace big rear bushes, vee mounts and engine mounts as a minimum. Everything else can be done with frame in place.

 

Thanks! Any tips on replacing the big rear subframe bushings? I'm going to swap them out tomorrow. I'm concerned with getting them in there correctly. It looks like it's not going to be easy to get them clocked correctly so the center offset bolt lines up. Or, maybe it's not super critical?

 

for some reason I got the spare mounts with imperial threads instead of metric (the originals were with metric) so if the spares do not come with new nuts pay some attention to the thread type so you have the correct type of nuts to fix the mounts back in place.

and at least _we_ needed to dismount the steering rack and steering axle to be able to wiggle the mounts and perches of the subframe.

Done with proper lift it was surprisingly annoying task with jack and jackstands it might be more on the side of PITA.

 

Those rear bushings have to be clocked correctly. I replaced my motor mounts by lifting the motor without dropping the subframe when I first got my car, the right side I believe went in fine. The left side gave me a fight but it can be done without dropping the subframe. However I just did the Vee mounts (didn’t do the rear bushings so I pivoted the subframe by loosening the rear bushings). And realized how much easier I thought it would have been to of replaced the motor mounts that way.

 

This happened as well, had to get the proper nuts.

 

Does anyone know if the left and right motor mounts are identical, and just have for some strange reason different part numbers? All visual online research shows identical pieces.
Also, are the URO JLM1010 a good replacement for both motor mounts?

Need to urgently buy new engine mounts!
thanks!
Steve - 1995 XJR

 

Hi

JaguarLandroverClassic shows that they have different part numbers, as you are listing here.
But the pieces look identical.
Can you confirm that there are actually physical differences between them, and which ones?

I am about to replace my motor mounts on a 1995 XJR, and the online info about those part numbers and their difference is very wishy-washy, unclear.

Thank you for listening …

 

The mounts are in fact different. One is much thicker than the other. If I remember correctly, the side that the engine leans towards has the skinnier mount (but do check yours before replacing)

 

I used OEM for one side and URO for the other as it wasn't available...works fine so far