Hi - 1996 xj12, I've got the subframe out for bushing, ball joint etc renewal and the rotors and axle stub assembly currently on the bench- been soaking the rotors for days, hitting with BFH and air tool but still firmly stuck, no heat applied yet.

Jus making sure there's not a secret fastener somewhere other than rust I don't know about? I am contemplating using C clamps on the caliper ears to encourage separation - thanks for any tips/info/don't do that advice!

 

It may have something to do with the inboard dust cover for the wheel bearing

Just guising

There may be frozen surclips on the wheel mounting studs

 

G'day Oliver,

Assuming you have the brake caliper removed from the suspension upright and also assuming you have a press, which I think you mentoned earlier, could you support the brake rotor and apply pressure to the wheel hub and push it through the brake rotor?

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Good idea, II've got a 20 ton press - if I take the dust cap off I suppose I could push on the bolt underneath.
I'm assuming there's nothing holding it on except corrosion that's my anxiety, easy to break stuff with great force...I keep looking at the exploded view diagrams, not seeing anything that looks as though it's anchoring it

 

G'day Oliver,

On my car there was a philips head screw which secured the brake rotor to the hub but not on all wheels so I don't use any of them. Nothing secretive behind the hub that I know of.

Re the use of the press, it might be better to use a large socket or a piece of pipe to apply pressure directly to the hub rather than apply a heavy load to the end of the axle bolt. If direct pressure wont shift it try loading it up and then give the rotor a solid thump with a FBH!

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

Where on the rotor is the screw? There's a recessed hole on my rotor fronts that looks as though it could receive a screw to mount flush, but there's no screw there so I've been squirting pentrating fluids into the hole, which quickly disappears. There isn't a screw on the back is there? I was looking in the area of '9' on this diagram where there appears to be a screw hole but didn't see anything and nothing on back of new rotor
Cheers

 

G’day Oliver,

Looking at the brake rotor there are the five holes for the lugs and on some of my rotors there is an extra hole which will take a countersunk Phillips headed screw which would screw into the hole near your number 9 in the diag. There is no screw on the back and if you squirt oil into the hole it will just come out the hole in the hub if both holes line up.

A couple of my rotors had this screw and the others didn’t so when I replaced my rotors a year ago I didn’t use any at all. I can’t see the point of them, it’s the lugs and nuts which hold it all together.

It’s interesting that in the online parts diagramme of the brake rotors that the rear rotors have a hole for the extra screw and the front ones don’t and the front hub has a hole for the screw and the rear hubs don’t. I’m confused.

Cheers,
Jeff.

 

There was a front bearing design change in the later production X308 ( and other little front suspension details ) with a later X308 TBS addressing dirt getting in the front bearing wearing them out so another change

The document could be mixed up in the 3 versions

 

Removal of the brake rotor should be a straightforward job.
I have attached page showing removal in the bottom right hand corner. It also contains relative notes 'The disc should now slide easily off the wheel studs etc."
Once the caliper is removed it is a simple task, however it seems yours have not been removed for some time & the dreaded corrosion symptoms have set in. A thorough soaking with a good penetrating fluid would be advisable, recourse to 20 ton presses sounds somewhat severe to me.
I have previously struck a similar & not uncommon problem removing alloy wheels from a hub after a long period of time, hence the common recommendation to apply some copper grease to the wheels when refitting.
The article also has mention of a securing grub screw, previously mentioned in several posts.

John Herbert
(1996 Jaguar XJR)
Alloy wheel experience with previous XJS

 

Oliver ,

Are the holes you mention treaded so a set of screws can push out the disk ?

Best guess would be metric

There are some Honda models that have a countersunk securing screw in this position , to become a problem later in service life

 

Thanks! I've been squirting mine for a week while they are horizontal on the bench front and back but they are still firmly bonded on.

I'll try some heat - I don't want to apply too much pressure but it will soon be time to do the bearings so something has to give soon....

 

Threaded holes on the hub side pushing from the inside of the car out ?

 

I got both rotors off today. It was bit tricky to set up on press, i put 4 punches into the slots in the rotor and set it on two pieces of wood after popping off the dust covers. I then put a big socket over the nut and applied pressure through it to the center. I then put some MAP heat on the rotor and then cranked it a few more pulls and it popped.

The second one I had been soaking a lot more with penetrant - same routine but no heat needed.