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I have an exhaust leak coming some where between the cats and engine. Instead of buying a new set of cats and possibly welding the manifold. Can I just take the manifold and cats of my xj6 and put them on my xjr?
I suspect the cats got clogged got hot and cracked the manifold but that's neither here nor there. I don't mind doing some hokey pokey exhaust flex tube to attach the two systems together to get the r back running.
The Y joint after the 2 manifolds piping comes back together cracks
Because of clearance issues the pipe section with the Y must come off 1st at the manifolds before you can remove the manifolds
The AJ16 engine has 2 exhaust valves per cylinder and the exhaust manifold is oval at the block mating point to receive this
There are 2 X300's at this one salvage yard with the manifolds still installed
From what I understand the AJ16 supercharged and non - supercharged manifolds are the same , you would have to look at the EGR and secondary air ports to be sure of those items
Thanks for letting me know I need to pull the y off first. I'll have to check the egr I know it's on top back corner on the R, but I'm not sure on the 6. I figured the manifolds were slightly different in the way they attached to the catalytic converter pipe, but had to at least be the same where they attached to the cylinder head.
The heads are most likely different other then the cylinder block
Without the Y off and dropped down out of the way you can't move the manifolds to the right and off the head studs
This means you have to remove the first pipe hanger just aft of the Y which can be a pain
Be careful in not damaging the flair the donut gasket seats in as the downward pointing studs can be in the way
One of the downward pointing studs needs about a 15 degree universal but can't quite fit in there so I used a standard shallow 15 mm and just " sit " the straight extension in there to get the 15 degrees without fully engaging the extension . This may not work for you depending on the extension manufacture , There is a specific extension that has the 15 degree beveled in the fitting
There is a webbing between the 2 pipes at the top and I cut mine off so the 2 pipes can float around for better clearance
The pipes are 60 mm and someone gave me the common available donut gasket #
The bifabricated duct in the rear cylinder is the secondary air and the 2 solid lines are the EGR
The 2 EGR nipples going into the manifold casting are fine thread so it's easy to cross thread so you will have to have patients with threading them
I'm not sure you have the EGR but if not some just plug the holes
There are some tips on putting it back together so I'll have to watch this thread
Last edited by Parker 2; May 13, 2021 at 06:02 AM.
It takes a fair amount of socket extenders. Mine are the wobble kind, so it gave me what I needed to tighten the nuts, but a lot of it is done from below. It's fairly straightforward, but you need to be able to reach. It also helps, but in my case apparently not necessary, to have occasional help to hold pieces in place, or perhaps even to help guide sockets into their nuts.
Some of the aftermarket donuts I ordered did not fit. Some did. You can make the call on that one.
I also remember the use of one time use brass, or copper bolts.
Those manifold studs at the end of the list were impossible to remove, just have them on hand, you might not need them, but good luck finding a replacement if you need them.
I can't recall why I ordered the 14 Locknuts, they might be single use too? I know the 4 were.
I did not have any problems with the studs on the engine that the manifold bolts on to. (JZC100029 x14)
I also did not have any issues with the two studs at the EGR flange, however, I was lucky. I might recommend you get these. (TE108041J x2)
Make sure you have an assortment of wobble ratchet extenders. I needed all the ones I had to reach nuts and bolts from below the car.
By the way, I drive an XJS so please double check the parts on JDHT to make sure they work for you too! They should, but there might be some random change...
I was able to do it as 1 person with the use of a long metal bar ( L channel ) bolted to the rearmost bolt hole on the manifold cover attach bolts ( since the manifolds are attached at this point in time )
With a certain bowline knot I was able to loop around the pipes and lever it up in place
You will need wooden blocks or jack to hold the pipe from dropping too low towards the floor
Care most be taken to wrap and secure a bumper cloth around the end of the lever or can bang on and break the windshield in the heat of battle
Last edited by Parker 2; May 13, 2021 at 07:43 AM.
First off thanks for all the replies.
Yesterday before I got started removing anything I got in there and felt around the exhaust with the car running, and it seemed to be leaking around the donut seals. So I pulled it apart and one was totally gone except for a thin metal ring and the other might as well have been holding back the Titanic.
Once I got the y off I could see the exhaust manifold looked to have a bad seal as well, but it was missing the nut and spacer so I may just try and find a replacement for those.
I doubt I'm going to pull the manifold off untill I try those new donuts and nuts. Also with the y pipe off I could see down in the cats and they didn't appear to be clogged, oil or, fuel fouled like I imagined so I think I'm going to keep what I got for now then reassess the situation later.
The donuts I ordered already and should be here Mondayish. They're api brand so we'll see if those work.
My donut gaskets came in and you would think it would be easy to replace especially since I had everything apart a few days ago. Well it wasn't. The first nut I undid stripped out then the second stud broke off, and the other 2 I thought were ok. So I proceed to drill and tap the bad studs then the tap breaks off in there. Fortunately I managed to remove it but it was quite painstaking. I finished tapping and ready to assemble everything back together and the last 2 nuts decide they don't want to tighten up. I tightened it down as much as it would go, but now I have to spend another day taking it all back apart to drill and tap the last 2.
to make it worse my water pump is starting to leak not even 2 weeks after the hose of a thousand horrors was replaced.