Planned on servicing the trans on the 97 XJ6 with 134k. Not sure of the service history as only have had the car for less than 2 weeks but fluid seemed low.

Couldn't break the nut free holding dipstick tube on pan so will soak with penetrating oil overnight.

Anything I should look for when removing pan and changing filter?

How can I remove the max amount of fluid for change?

Also, car has slipped out of park a couple of times when parking up slight hill. Anything to look for in and around trans to correct this problem?

Thanks

 

Clean the magnets
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-fluid-149399/

 

Hi rfxj6,

Given that you thought the fluid seemed low, the first thing you will want to do is check for leaks around the pan gasket, fluid cooler hoses, etc. If you find a leak anywhere except around the pan gasket you will want to repair it before you change the fluid and filter.

Regarding how to change the maximum amount of fluid, less than half will drain out from the pan. The rest remains in the torque converter, valve block, etc. The pro shops have methods for replacing the fluid in the torque converter, and there are even DIY methods, but they're somewhat risky.

A method many of us follow is to do the change in two or three steps: 1. Drain the fluid, either via the pan drain plug, or via the dipstick tube with a fluid transfer pump. Replace the drain plug if removed, and refill the fluid via the dipstick tube until it is right at the COLD mark on the dipstick. Drive the car for at least 20 or 30 miles. A day or two would be even better. 2. Ideally, repeat the previous steps. Some owners skip this step but I recommend it. 3. Finally, drain and remove the pan, clean everything, install the new filter, O-ring, gasket, and a new drain plug is a good idea (see aholbro1's experience). Reinstall everything and follow the workshop manual instructions for torquing the pan screws. Refill the fluid to just below the COLD mark on the dipstick, drive the car until the transmission is hot, then add just enough fluid to bring it up to the HOT mark. Done.

This method doesn't replace 100% of the fluid, but it renews a very high percentage without having to pay transmission shop rates.

Regarding the transmission slipping out of Park, one thing you can do is check the cable that connects the gear shift lever to the rotary switch on the side of the gearbox. It may have stretched and need to be adjusted.

You definitely want to see aholbro1's photos in the thread he provided the link to.

Cheers,

Don

 

I'm having trouble removing the dip stick tube fitting from the transmission pan. That's the only way to drain the fluid from the pan without dropping pan (no drain plug). I've soaked the nut with penetrating oil but it's still stuck, so much so that the pan has started to deform from torquing the nut to remove it. So I'll probably just drop the pan to service the trans, but...

in talking to my local indy Jag mechanic, he says with 135K and not knowing history of service, I'm better leaving old fluid in trans since it looks OK and shifts great. He says the trans will take a "set" if not serviced and might not like fresh fluid with a fresh viscosity....

anyone heard of this "if at ain't broke don't fix it" approach to transmission maintenance? I'm not sure I agree.

 

I see your location as CHICAGO so I would assume CORROSION!!!!!!
You might try to source another pan and dipstick tube. Coat the living CRAP out of the threads with anti-seize compound for the next fluid change.

I would also advise SNUG and NOT ('the nut is big so it needs 1000 foot pounds of torque') tight.

bob gauff

 

Well I should have taken my mechanic's advice and left the transmission alone. One of the corner bolts broke removing the pan. Drilled it and now an extractor is also broken off in the hole. Can drill out the extractor.

Will I have to pull the trans? Is the trans shot now??????????????

 

No, its not. If you can get the pan hole over the broken off extractor, just use extra rtv, I prefer Permatex Ultra Blue or UItra Orange, around the broken bolt hole. If you cant stand doing it that way, do what I advised to get it mobile and take it to a shop and let them figure out how to get it out.

 

Transmission finally serviced. Wow. The broken bolt, and subsequent broken extractor, proved a worthy opponent but used a Dremel rotary with diamond ball grinding head (actually went through two) to painstakingly grind out hardened steel extractor and then drilled out rusted bolt completely until I could see threads starting to show through hole. I then ran a 6mmx1.0 tap through the hole to cut out the rusted bolt threads.

Ordered the wrong filter from Rockauto (sans pick up tube) so had to wait for my local Napa to order one in.

Looks good now. No leaks yet, so will run it for a couple of days and pull dipstick tube off and exchange another 4 to 5 quarts of fluid for fresh.

Thanks for the help!

 

I like the idea of a Dremel with a diamond ball grinding head! I've never seen one but will be looking from now on! I can think of a few uses!