I’m struggling with this supposedly easy job on my 96 RHD 3.2 Sport..

in theory I undo the retaining nut above the wheel arch, then after compressing the front suspension ( the wheel is off to improve access) with a full load on the front springs I then partially relax the load and the shock should obligingly allow itself to be compressed and stay there while I replace the shot isolator rubber, the top threaded part having obligingly allowed itself to drop through the mounting plate.

The suspension geometry seems to prevent you moving the top of the shock outward as it fouls the hub carrier, so the shock will have to be compressed sufficient to replace the old isolator.

Mine seems to have gas struts as even with a LOT of downward pressure exerted by wedging something between the metal shock washer and the shock mount I am finding it impossible to get the shock to an angle where I can replace the isolator and it takes constant heavy downward pressure to compress the shock. Perhaps I have aftermarket gas struts.

I attach a photo of where I have got to. I’ve worked on MK4s to Series I XJ6 in the past but this simple one nut job is defeating me so far and I started with the easy side unobstructed by the header tank etc. Bad for morale indeed.

I guess I have to devise a temporary clamp to compress the shock while I put on the new isolator.

Am I missing something obvious ? None of this will have improved the threads on the shock piston either .

I also noticed a wire going nowhere from the caliper which I guess must be a forlorn wear indicator.

After that it will be the rear bump stop that obligingly dropped off into my drive last week. Wretched speed bumps.

Alan


As you can see the old isolator is very compressed.

 

They are all gas struts with initial pressure of 180 PSI on top of fluid on a relaxed no load condition

" I also noticed a wire going nowhere from the caliper which I guess must be a forlorn wear indicator. "

No wear indicator , reduses static increasing bearing life

 

just unbolt the lower bolt on the shock to free it completely - that should give you enough wiggle room to get the new isolator in there.

 

I usually HOLD the damper down with one arm and quickly swap out the isolator and washer, then release tension to guide it back into place.

I have done DOZENS AND DOZENS when I worked at the dealer.

 

Thanks. Sounds logical. Passage of time my muscles at 77 ain’t those at 17 . 😃

 

I'll be 70 next year so I find it harder to hold it down as the years progress!(I know what you mean)

 

Did this job recently and its very difficult. I was also replacing the front subframe mounts so I just cheated and lowered everything.

 

Thought I had posted this, but it’s vanished.

I assume on reassembly, thighten down the top nut until the washer is hard against the sleeve over the piston, preloading the isolators.
I confess to get back on the road I only replaced the top isolator on the o/s, the piston having popped back thru the mount on lowering car off the trolley jack.

I ask as on the n/s, looking under 5he header tank, that there is not a lot of thread visible above 5he retaining nut, which may explain one of the suspension clunks. I see the MAF and header tank need to come off to access the isolator, so fingers crossed no hoses say goodbye.

Alan

 

luckily you dont have to remove the header tank completely, just loosen it and move it out of the way - make sure the sensor at the bottom of the tank stays put though - i have heard of them coming loose and giving low coolant warnings.

 

Thanks, that’s helpful.

I have already had both the stuck circular float in the header tank and the level sensor falling out of its recess in the bottom of the tank giving a false reading on previous occasions. And good advice from the forum.

All good clean fun. That multi connector multi diameter bottom hose looks a real charmer.

And I notice the front pads look thin when working in the shock.

Alan