I am looking at an XJ8 for sale at the local auction. I have read that the timing chain is problematic and that the transmissions are sealed and that this causes problems for them after ten years or so of driving.

How difficult is it to change the timing chain? I am moderately handy with the usual set of shadetree mechanic tools and thought if I buy the car I might change the chain on spec.

What is the general advice on the transmissions? Should they be opened up to allow for oil changes or should they be left alone?

 

I believe problems you are referring to are " plastic chain tensioners" that can break, and common transmission failure that has to do with valve body and drum.

"Summary of Major Repair & Safety Issues" in this forum has some info. And if you search you will find a lot of info and even "how to do " detail guides.

Hope it helps.

 

ALL the information is on the forum. The later XJ8's come with good tensioners.
Changing the transmission fluid and filter can't hurt. Reading the forum, you see
transmission failures occur at 80,000 to 120,000 or more on occasion.


Don't buy a Jaguar and expect cheap transportation. $3,000 to $4,000 a year if you do a lot of your own work. That can be hard to accept for a car that is only worth
that much. All that said, it is the nicest driving car you will ever own. I've gone out
for a 300 mile drive just for fun.

 

You spend that much a year? Wow. I have 92k miles on mine now and have not come close to that amount in any given year. I must be lucky.

Chris

 

I just purchased a 98 XJ8 with less than 92K miles on it. I've read about the tensioners and the water pump. I plan to have them changed next week. Then I'll feel comfortable in taking it out for a long cruise. It's certainly the nicest car I've owned and plan to keep it for a long time

 

I ran it briefly yesterday and heard a clack clack sound coming from the engine [audible inside the car] while idling. The windshield has one dime sized ding in it that has been repaired. Other than that it appears to be in very nice shape. I found a bill for a $4500 transmission repair in 2009 in the glover compartment. They got a bid of $3500 Canadian on it but it didn't sell. I had a read through the information on changing the tensioners and it looks like quite a job that would require special tools. I don't expect cheap transportation but I wouldn't want to face a ten thousand dollar bill for transmission or engine repairs shortly after purchasing it. The auction house will let you return the car on any purchase over $2500 if it requires major engine or transmission repairs. I figure the car is worth about six thousand and I could retrieve four or so if I were to sell it after the summer. It is a beauty of a car and I would love to experience a Jaguar for a while at least. And it is affordable. A wiser man would just stay away I expect.

 

The secondary tensioners are easily changed using zip ties to lock the cam to the sprocket. But the noise you hear after startup is something that would keep me away if I couldn't identify it.

 

I opine likewise .... That is considerable up-keep cost, probably from being hit with expensive processors at least twice a year. My 2002 hasn't cost me nearly as much $$, even with the very rare and unusual total collapse of my supercharger.

Cheers,

 

I get that same ping on my 02 xj sport. I wonder what that is?

 

The earlier cars can suffer from :

- Nikasil cylinder bore failure (I wouldn't worry about that as too much time has passed since the sulphur issue)
- Secondary tensioner failure (relatively easy and cheap fix if the originals still intact - if engine has rattling noise now walk away)
- Gearbox A drum o-ring failure - this has been attended to you say.
- Throttle body failure - a problem with some earlier cars resulting in immediate and unexpected engine shutdown, not funny if you're cruising down the freeway having to cross 3 lanes of traffic to pull over with no power.
- Thermostat housing failure - a potential problem with all XJ8's - not too bad to remedy with upgraded aluminium kit

Personally I would be very cautious of a 1998MY car unless you like getting your hands dirty, especially with a "clack clack" noise..... save your money for a good post 2001MY with service history and preferably with the above issues attended to IMO

 

I tend to agree with Kyle: especially if this car has been driven in snow and ice. Body and frame rot and rust makes simple repairs for a Ca or Fl car a freaking disaster for those driven in slush and salt.