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Although entirely not my business, I also really wonder how you still have option 1 on the table.
I was trying to return a 3 dollar electric cable to the shop, unopened, with receipt, bought 3 days ago, and only got it done after 5 minutes of arguments.
How the heck are you goning to claim and return this car, even if you probably have a receipt as well ?
Besides of that, I am following your thread with interest, and wish you good luck.
The best thing to do would have been to call the dealer, the moment the car went wrong. Any reasonable dealer who values their reputation will be understanding when a car has siezed up on the drive home from the dealership!
Clearly, the vehicle was not fit for purpose.
What might put him on dodgy ground is the fact that he then dismantled the engine. My suggestion would be to put it back together as it was.
After a nights rest I'm favouring option 3.
So today I'm on the hunt for a suitable donor engine to transplant.
My question to anybody with experience or knowledge is it posible to separate the engine from the transmission when the crank is locked. I imagine that the normal procedure would be to rotate the flywheel removing the bolts securing the torque convertor to the flexplate prior to removing the bell housing fasteners. Is it feasable to remove the engine withe the torque convertor still attached??
As has been said..I think you might have an interesting time getting money back from a dealer especially now you have stripped down....personally I would at least tell him in detail what has happened (you have a lot of virtual witnesses on this forum) and argue for a chunk of money to cover a bit of what you are doing...regardless of whether you have a stripped down or not you still have a legal case in so much as the vehicle was not fit for purpose but its going to cost you a ton of money getting a civil action to stick.
I don't know what the car owes you in money or if the rest of the car is going to be a money pit (after all...If you fix this issue then its going to be the transmission and rear axle next isn't it!) but having had the courage to put in all this time and effort thus far I would opt for a rebuilt engine..4.2 time :-) ? .....You will then have quite a rare X308 in so much that there are not to many cars around with fresh 'new' engines which in my opinion adds to value...
Ive lost count of good cars gone bad fast from both dealers and private... $hyt happens...but in the likely even that getting your money back is going to be a long and stressful affair....bite bullet and finish fixing it as you are already half way there...or sell it for parts.
After a nights rest I'm favouring option 3.
So today I'm on the hunt for a suitable donor engine to transplant.
My question to anybody with experience or knowledge is it posible to separate the engine from the transmission when the crank is locked. I imagine that the normal procedure would be to rotate the flywheel removing the bolts securing the torque convertor to the flexplate prior to removing the bell housing fasteners. Is it feasable to remove the engine withe the torque convertor still attached??
Stuart, one of the things you said early on in the introduction section of the site, you stated the engine oil lamp was illuminated as you drove. Without oil pressure, it could very well be that you have seized a bearing to the crankshaft. You could remove the main and rod bearing caps one at a time and check this. To answer your question can you remove the block assembly with the torque converter attached, the answer is yes, but use care. Once out, you will need to place it back by hand and insure proper pump engagement in the bell-housing.
I have never had the engine out of an X308, but I have on a couple of other cars with automatic trannies, and it was just a matter of disconnecting the bell housing and pulling the spline out of the TC. Since you are pulling the engine (and tranny together, I assume) maybe you should pull the bed plate and see if you can find out what is causing the lockup. If you have the time and space and tools, it might be worth a shot at fixing what you've got. There is a guy on here named Sean B who is quite knowledgeable about this stuff - I hope he doesn't mind my mention ;^). Here's an old post with some stuff in it that he commented on - https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-thread-61113/
Stuart, one of the things you said early on in the introduction section of the site, you stated the engine oil lamp was illuminated as you drove. Without oil pressure, it could very well be that you have seized a bearing to the crankshaft.
I thought the same thing. Possibly the cam chain jumping was a secondary and coincidental issue.
Hi Guys
Well my replacement engine has arrived and I have removed the rest of the original dead unit from the car complete with torque convertor. I have stripped and rebuilt the replacement engine with all new timing chains, tensioners and guides etc and will be documenting the rebuild and associated problems in an new thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enture-145002/ In order to finally remove the torque convertor from the old engine's flexplate it was still necessary to rotate the crank to get to the three mounting bolts but even with the engine out, heads and sump off, it still would not rotate. I loosened all of the main and big end caps starting from the front and it was not until I loosened the very last main at the rear that the crank finally moved. What was very evident however was that everything in the vacinity of the cylinder pair were absolutely bone dry......the crank webs, the conrods, big end caps were completely devoid of oil.
Where's the oil gone ? The oil you can see on the r/h conrod big end is where I have wiped it with my oily finger to show the contrast between oil and no oil! So it would appear that the primary fault was oil starvation to the back of the engine destroying the main bearing. This probably caused a further drop in oil pressure making the already cracked secondary tensioners to stop functioning all together resulting in the exhaust valves break dancing and stopping the engine abruptly. I still find it astonishing that such a well designed and manufactured engine, with full service history could completly destroy itself in seconds with no real symptoms or warnings. Have any of you got any ideas as to what would cause the back of the motor to be starved of lubrication?
Last edited by stuartwaite; Jun 21, 2015 at 01:21 PM.
Hi Guys
Just a quick final note to close this thread. Those of you that have been following the rebuild thread https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...enture-145002/ will be aware that after trying to breath life into a defective replacement unit I finally obtained a 3rd (good) engine; which after a upgrading to latest spec, started on the 1st turn of the key and has been purring ever since. I would just like thank everybody that offered advice and words of encouragement during this traumatic baptism of fire. As a final note I would just like to let all the nay sayers that I was of course in full communication with the seller from the second the engne imploded to the final return to full function. The dealer has been very helpfull and understanding throughout. Because the car was pretty well perfect I did not want to simply return it for a refund so I reached a comprimise whereby the dealer paid for all the parts and I provided the labour to replace the engine. I now have a stunningly beautiful car with a fully rebuilt (hopefully reliable) engine. I'm really enjoying driving her and so far she done everything I have asked of her - who could ask for more ?
Well done Stuart I'm similarly dogged when it comes to these cars, have a look in my albums to see the extent I went to....anyway to ensure good running I suggest you take a look at this thread for a trouble free car good luck and enjoy
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