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2000 Jaguar Vanden Plas No Start after Driving

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Old 03-26-2019, 09:34 PM
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Default 2000 Jaguar Vanden Plas No Start after Driving

I have a 2000 Jaguar Vanden Plas that will no start after driving about 30 minutes or more and sitting for about a hour. If I let it sit for about 4 hours or so after the no start it will crank no problem. Anyone ever have this issue? Take a look at the video. Also, I was driving today and it cut-off while I was driving. I same messages displayed on the console, ASC, Gearbox fault, low brake fluid, etc. I gave it a minute then it started and cranked.

One note, someone on the board said that it could be a clockspring issue after researching that, in my opinion I say not but my horn does not work. So could it be?

Thanks.

 
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Old 03-26-2019, 11:38 PM
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Hi Sam,

Do you have a scan tool, and if so, have you scanned for stored Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs)? That might give you at least some clues to pursue.

Have to tried to start it with the transmission in Neutral? The Park-Neutral switch disables the starter if the gear selector is not in either Park or Neutral.

Cheers,

Don
 
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Old 03-27-2019, 05:19 AM
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I've been trying to tackle the same issue on mine and found it out to be the classic example of vapor lock, fuel rail looses pressure within minutes of switching off the engine, fuel boils and car don't restart, it actually boiled so badly that releasing pressure through check valve at the front of rail would take long time and violent gurgling. if you let it cool enough it builds up pressure again and starts without problem. got it mostly fixed by sending injectors for cleaning (gonna change the fuel pump in some future) but you would have to look where exactly your pressure goes, it may be dripping injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump or less likely something in between
Meantime floor the car while cranking and it gonna start, other option is to remove fuel pump relay, crank and put it back when car starts turning
 
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Old 03-27-2019, 05:23 AM
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The messages displayed may happen due to low battery but have it scanned and checked to be sure
 
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Old 03-27-2019, 08:54 AM
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I once had many things suddenly having "faults", including the "Gearbox Failure" when my alternator went bad and the battery voltage was going down. Luckily, this happened when I was close to home so the engine did not stall before I parked. I would check the alternator charge voltage first.
 
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Old 05-12-2019, 06:26 PM
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Originally Posted by xjack
I've been trying to tackle the same issue on mine and found it out to be the classic example of vapor lock, fuel rail looses pressure within minutes of switching off the engine, fuel boils and car don't restart, it actually boiled so badly that releasing pressure through check valve at the front of rail would take long time and violent gurgling. if you let it cool enough it builds up pressure again and starts without problem. got it mostly fixed by sending injectors for cleaning (gonna change the fuel pump in some future) but you would have to look where exactly your pressure goes, it may be dripping injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump or less likely something in between
Meantime floor the car while cranking and it gonna start, other option is to remove fuel pump relay, crank and put it back when car starts turning


xjack, it take a look at the video. It won't start or crank. I attempted the procedure you listed but it did nothing.
 
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Old 05-13-2019, 09:50 AM
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If it doesn't crank than it is totally different issue
Before you start brainstorming the thing make sure your battery is properly charged or jump start it, those cars just deny cooperation while low on the battery and flood you with misleading errors, Cheap bluetooth obd and torque app on your mobile will make guessing whole lot easier.
 
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Old 02-20-2020, 01:59 PM
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Originally Posted by xjack
I've been trying to tackle the same issue on mine and found it out to be the classic example of vapor lock, fuel rail looses pressure within minutes of switching off the engine, fuel boils and car don't restart, it actually boiled so badly that releasing pressure through check valve at the front of rail would take long time and violent gurgling. if you let it cool enough it builds up pressure again and starts without problem. got it mostly fixed by sending injectors for cleaning (gonna change the fuel pump in some future) but you would have to look where exactly your pressure goes, it may be dripping injectors, fuel pressure regulator, fuel pump or less likely something in between
Meantime floor the car while cranking and it gonna start, other option is to remove fuel pump relay, crank and put it back when car starts turning
hi xjack, that is exactly what I’m experiencing with my XK8, did you manage to fully resolve the issue?
 
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