My 1999 XJR has started blowing a little blue/white smoke on startup (clears up in just a few seconds) first thing in the morning from the passenger side exhaust pipe. It does not do it unless the car has been sitting overnight. Other than this, the car runs good. I think the smoke may be caused by leaking valve stem seals. I pulled the plugs and there is evidence of oil being burned on two of the plugs on the passenger side of the engine. Compression checks out good on all cylinders, and there is no blow-by when the car is running.

I have done all the work that has been done on the car since I purchased it 6 years ago. I have replaced the head gaskets, timing tensioners, chains and guides, all four wheel bearings, water pump, and the normal maintenance items like brake pads, oil changes, etc., so I think I can probably handle this job. I know, I probably should have changed the stem seals when I did the head gaskets, but I didn't think about it at the time, as they were not leaking. However, I always do some research before jumping into a task I've not done before on this car, so I would appreciate any help and/or advice you can give.

How difficult is this job to do with the heads in place on the engine? Are the seals the same for exhaust and intake valves? What special tools will I need? How far down do I have to disassemble the engine?

Thanks in advance for your assistance.

 

umm.... oil and plugs don't cost very much ... why not write it off to the car having "character" and be done with it? Just a suggestion.

Maybe a thicker grade of oil.

 

I would rather fix it, as it is getting pretty embarrassing when I start my car every morning and send a cloud of smoke over to my neighbor's. Anyone else have any advice on making this repair???

 

It can be done, but if you really think about the task (remove cams + 24 valve springs + chance of dropping something where you can never find or retrieve it, my back hurts just writing this thinking of leaning over the fender for hours and hours. I would look for a used or rebuilt head to work on then replace the old to save down time, or rebuild the original. As I said before you can do it (compressed air in the spark plug hole keeps the valve from falling into the cylinder while you work on that valve.
You know the answer, just hoped there was a magic fix. Hope this helps make your mind up. Paul

 

Hello
I found this general DIY on how to replace valve stem seals (it is on the Autozone Website - repair information page):

how to replace valve stem seal.pdf

If you need Removal and Installation on the cam covers (valve covers), I can create a PDF extract from the JTIS21 software.

Jim Lombardi

 

Thanks for the advice. I know there is no simple fix and that I have to remove the cams to access the seals, which means having to basically re-do the timing tensioner job I already did once. Lesson learned......if you have to change head gaskets, change the valve seals at the same time. I'm just looking for someone who has actually done this themselves and might have some tips about things to do or not do.

 

Has anyone used this tool: ValveMaster valve keeper tool

If so, what is your opinion of it?

 

I bought a valvemaster after talking to the manufacturer about the jag valve dimensions. They indicated it would work, but it did not quite get the keepers down far enough to seat them. I found that if I put a 1/4 ' flat washer on tiop of the valve spring plate, I could make it work about 2 of 3 times. When it fails to seat, it usually means digging the keeper out of the head with a magnet. Thye valvemaster usually will remove the keepers OK, but again, frequently you have to fish the keeper out. You can probably get the job done in-situi easier than pulling the heads, but as someone pointed out, you might just end up having to pull one.

I did mine off the car, so I cannot help with the specifics of what you might run into, but to pull the valve seals, you will probably need a set of large (really large) needle nose pliers. I would have some vise grips handy in case the compressor quit, so you can grab the valve stem and hold on until you get it going. Good luck and let us know how it went.

 

Thanks for sharing your experience with the Valvemaster tool. I contacted the manufacturer about the application and this was their response:

"It looks to me like your valve stems stick abnormally high above the spring retainer. You could measure it for me, but I think our tool would bottom out before you could remove or replace the keepers."

Your method of adding the thickness of a 1/4" washer may be the only way of doing it with this tool. However, from what I recall when I had the heads off the car, the spring is recessed into the head, and I don't know if a conventional spring compressor would work either. Does anyone else know?

I'm also going to buy a pair of valve stem removal pliers. They have them on the Valvemaster website. They look like they might really do the job. I have an 5 hp 60 gallon air compressor, so I've got plenty of air, and I plan on moving each piston to top dead center prior to removing the spring in order to catch the valve on the piston top should I lose air pressure while a spring is off.

I'll try to remember to take pictures and let you know how it goes. If you or anyone else has anything to add before I tackle the job, please do so. Thanks.

 

To remove the valve springs I used a socket that just fit on the top, with a magnet to catch the collets (keepers?) in the socket when I tapped it with a rubber mallet, a sharp little tap should release them.

 

Sean:
How did you get them back in? I have a hard time even seeing the little buggers!

 

er, not done that yet, will let you know shortly ;-)

 

Well, the valvemaster with the spacing washer (or it could be modified) was sure easier that the standard c type spring compressor, although it is certainly not perfect.

 

so did the smoke stop when you replaced the seals?

 

Are you doing this with the head on or off the car? I really want to try and do it on the car, as I've already replaced the head gaskets only a few thousand miles ago.

 

I have the luxury of "off the car". I prefer it that way, how much are a set of gaskets? I get a pair for £40. The 'head bolts are good for 1 more go after initial torque, this from a genuine Jaguar engineer, he also tipped me that they're the same as the Range Rover V8 S/C at around a quarter of the cost from Jaguar, have you a LandRover dealers in your neck of the woods?
If you did your headgeaskets a few thousand miles ago, I see your point in saving money, but one dropped valve and the head's off anyway. It just seems very awkward doing them in situe, let us know how you get on and take pictures to post! Good luck.

 

It's not really the cost of the gaskets, they are not too bad. It is the additional time and labor, as you must remove the fuel system, the supercharger, intake manifold, water pump, throttle body, etc., etc., etc., plus the cost of new head bolts. BTW, regardless of what your "genuine Jaguar engineer" says, Jaguar does not recommended you re-use the old head bolts. I believe it, as I had the head break off of one when I took the heads off the first time and had to drill it out.

 

I agree- Tearing the heads off a XJR is a major job. And if you begin the seal job in place and run into something and have to do the teardown, nothing is lost anyway. I would get a couple of spare keepers, though. They are awfully hard to keep up with. The good news is they will not fit throught the engine oil pickup screen!

 

Good point about having a few spare keepers. Where can I get those?

 

I have seen them online for about $4.00 /pr, but I got the ones I needed from an old head, but I scrapped the rest- wish now I had not!