I recently had some alternator tests done and figured out that the rectifier and regulator were bad but stator was good. So my main reason for this post is to share the part info as it was hard to find(even for Denso) for the rectifier but eventually got it. Here goes

Regitar INR736
Rectifier ND 12V Chrysler 8mm post

Transpo IN9218
Regulator ND 12V 3PIN Jaguar 97-02

So far it has worked like a charm and rather than spend $250 for a rebuilt from Discount or Autozone it only cost me $75 for the two parts retail. Hope this will help others

 

Interesting stuff -- how did you discover the Chrysler part? Any pictures?


We have had very poor reliability with many rebuilt electrical parts for our fleet cars in the past few years. Especially the alternators - They are actually fixing the boards.

So we try to rebuild the original units - or we are forced to go factory. This is great information!

The chinese have also copied some of the common parts so well its unbelievable - but not the reliability.

 

HurQleys -

Before this post gets too old:

Are those two different sources for the same part, or are two different parts used in the alternator? Thx.

 

The Chrysler part was found by one of the their parts suppliers in a cross reference manual. At first most of them did not attempt to find anything until one called back saying they had it. I didnt take any pictures sorry.

I purchased these two parts from an alternator, starter, and battery shop but are two seperate manufacturers. It looks as the original numbers match with the local retailers numbers which are the IN & INR#'s. Other than the main stator/generator part of an alternator the rear is composed of three main parts...carbon brushes, regulator, and rectifier.

 

how did you know the alternator was bad...just by the test or did you notice anything else, like dimming lights?

 

There was quite a few events that happened lately...it started with fuel pumps, then I noticed a whining noise but wasnt too sure what was happening cause I drive the car regularly without a problem. Noticed after putting in the new battery(old one was from 5/07) that it was throwing ABS, ASC and TRAC control lights it had reached less than 12v as well as testing with a multi meter while at idle the volts dropped. So I yanked it out and took it apart(which is quite easy) and tested all contacts with a 6v source with 2 of 4 stator contacts on the rectifier were not getting power. The stator was test by the shop to say it was good, assembled, and put back without the whining.

 

HurQleys -
Let me try my previous question a different way.... Does the alternator use BOTH part types you mention (that is, they are different) or are these the SAME PART only from different sources? Thx.

 

They are two seperate parts. I personally think the regulator was fine but spent the $45 to ensure I did it only once. On the back of the alternator there are three parts that are layered so if you change one they ll have to be disassembled by fives screws. Hope this answers your question

 

So each alternator has two different types of rectifiers? How many of each?

 

"Never mind" (almost) I misread your original post. How many of just the rectifier diodes are used?

 

That im not too sure on. There was two for each of the four contacts if I remeber correctly. The guy which tested it stated denso uses a neutral so one contact would have no power. Either way for me it the other contact was dead.

 

I got a set of brushes and bearings for the Denso alternator from Smith Electric Co as PM after 142k mi. Very reasonable prices.
I saw regulators on eBay for $50.
The original bearings were fine so I did not replace them.
The securing terminals of the old brushes were corroded. With new brushes the output voltage is back to 14.4V instead of 13.2V.

 

Update!!!

The original part (Regitar INR736) is above is actually incorrect. The actual part needed for our cars is (Regitar INR742P) which has the proper amps required not to blow the diodes. I found this out the hard way by letting the shop tell me it was right. I dug up some info and found the correct one. Hope this helps.

 

Better yet is a shop that just replaces the diodes with heavier units.

It was about $10 last time.

Bargain of the century ... next to the $5 brush holder rebuild

 

Not bad! When repairing stuff I'm not fond of waiting on others lol.