So I have had my 1998 4.0 VanDenplas for a few years now. I am 2nd owner and I believe one of the best body designs. The only problem of course is the nicasil linings and a good chance of fuel wash. Admittedly I have only had 2 since , but it is a game changer and a tow back to the house to rectify the issue until the next time. I am considering looking for a used low mileage engine from a dismantler, I have seen them for about $2k on line. My question is.........1st, How would I know it is not Nicasil.........And 2nd what year would be preferred so as to be plug and play. I am concerned that the Electrics might not be forward compatible ??

In the meantime, are there any new tricks to rectifying the Fuel Wash issue. I still remove all plugs and inject a small amount of oil into each chamber, turn it over, a few times, reassemble and fire her up and drive off in a cloud of smoke.

 

Push the accelerator all the way to the floor and crank the engine in short bursts; as it begins to fire, slowly let up on the gas pedal. This, essentially, cuts off the fuel flow which is washing oil off the cylinder sleeves and reducing compression -- same technique for trying to start a flooded engine.

 

Thx J , I have heard of this method and tried in the past without any success. But it is always a chance it may work this time.
I have toyed with the idea of wiring the fuel pump in such a way the there is a short delay before it supplies that gas , and alternately that it starves it when shutting down. It should not take much of a design to make that happen. Maybe a 1/2 to 1 second delay circuit.
I have never been sure when the was occurs........does it happen at shut down or start-up. I have not heard that clarified.....Cj

 

In my 9 years of experience working on these older Jags, the dreaded bore wash is commonly a result of a marginal battery in my opinion. If the battery is more than 3 years old, go get a new high quality battery. It’s far cheaper than an engine and it’ll still bore wash with a marginal battery. Once you do get the car running, go stretch it’s legs on the highway and don’t be afraid to full throttle it every once in awhile to clear it out.

 

they all wash fuel if you start it for 1 min and then shut it off

 

1. Engines from Engine No. 00 08 18 1043 (0008181043), i.e. from the engine that was completed in the year 2000 (00), in August (08), on 18th at 10:43, are non-Nikasil.
2. You have an AJ26 engine and the non-Nikasil will be AJ27. If/when replacing your engine with an AJ27 one, you have to keep all your existing electronics and the wiring and also swap certain parts from your AJ26 into the AJ27. You will find a lot of info on the swap if you search the forum.

 

Aren't the two unrelated?

AFAIK all 4.0 can suffer bore wash.

If you think you could fit a 4.2, good luck!!

 

Possibly but it seems that engines with Nikasil lining will suffer more than those with steel liners. As I understand, engines with Nikasil liners were losing compression because the Nikasil was being "eaten" by sulphur, during the time when petrol had high sulphur content. According to the info I found, the low-sulphur petrol was introduced in the UK from 01/01/2000 (and probably in other European countries) and in the USA from around 2007. The low sulphur petrol practically eliminated accelerated wear of the Nikasil linings but, as it came much later in the USA, the Nikasil engines there suffered considerably more.

 

Some were, others not.

Just measure the actual compression!

 

I wish it were the case , (Addicted to boost),.......my battery is in good condition and near new, and keep it well topped off with smart charger. Both times that it has happened to me it has been after a fair good run, no short trip , or run for just a short time. This particular time I planned a 4 hr. trip and had just filled with gas ready for trip. It failed while trying to start after the fill up? The car was well warmed up after about 1/2 hr. trip to gas station.? Thanks for the FB though. Cj

 

Thanx.......the numbers will be very helpful if I get that far. I have a great opportunity with a brother having all the needed tools and space to do a change out.. The info. on the compatibility is also good to hear. We will have my original engine right there. Do you have any info on where I could look for the said motor, I live in Arizona, but we will do the work in Montana. thanx much, Cj

 

Based on my interpretation of all the above, switching to a steel-lined engines hardly makes sense, technically or financially.. Maybe a slightly heavier oil (10w40)?


But do the compression check.

 

+1. I have owned and worked on nikasil engines and never had a bore wash case. From what I have read, high sulfur erosion was a problem in the south/southwest, but not common. Another source of trouble is overheating. Nikasil blocks are far superior to the steel lined ones if undamaged. As Jim says, do a compression test or even better a leak down. If it passes look elseware for a starting problem.

 

This ....!

 

I agree with RJ that nikasil is better than a steel liner.

The Nikasil has less friction than a steel liner and should produce more horsepower and run cooler than a steel liner.

A steel liner has a different expansion rate than the aluminum block. The Nikasil is applied directly to the aluminum block and will expand together.

The Nikasil bore will last longer than than a steel bore.

I never heard anything bad about Nikasil until I got my Jag. I understand it was high sulfur fuel that caused the problem and is no longer an issue. Since I been on this site since 2015 I haven't seen a post of an engine with a Nikasil failure.I'm sure someone will find a thread somewhere and post it.

I understand that Formula 1 and NASCAR use Nikasil in their engines. You don't have the extra weight of the steel liners. The clearances between the cylinders can be closer , also reducing the weight of the block. Their engines should run cooler and produce more horsepower.

If I had the choice between a block with a steel liner or one that has the Nikasil coating, I would choose the Nikasil every time.

 

Gentlemen........I am attempting for the 2nd time to restore the compressions on the '98 4.0 ( Nikasil ) motor..........I was successful a few years a go, with your help. My question today is the sequence when putting the 5mil. of oil in each cylinder. . Do I install the plugs, after 5mil of oil, then turn it over or do I turn it over without any plugs installed. Also , should I use a 30weight oil for the job?

 

Procedure from Gus's website jagrepair.com

JagRepair.com - Jaguar Repair Information Resource

 

Thanks RobRoy...........Have now printed it for future use..........Much obliged ....Cj