Well today I thought I'd change my front brakes, so I obtained a set of pads and discs/rotors and begun work. However after removing the caliper I turned my attention to the calliper holder and it's two bolts. I tried for over 2 hors to get those little B******s out and they wouldn't budge! They even broke a breaker bar! I suspect these haven't been out for some time, and I've only had the car since febuary so haven't had a chance to do them. They're still stuck in, and my brakes really need replacing!

So my question? Is it wise for me to attempt to use heat on these or should I send it to the Mechanics?

Thanks Guys. S.

 

Did you use some PB blaster?

 

No insult intended, but you are turning them the right way, right? Remember, they are on the back side, turning out away from you.

 

I started this the wrong direction when I moved from the driver to the passenger side. Then I thought about it...doh! I almost stuckem on for good!

 

fit a pipe onto your socket drive, then use a tire iron or something similar to push down on the socket drive. those bolts have threadlock on them and it will be impossible for you to use your muscle.

 

And.... A little heat would be Ok. You won't change the characteristics as long as you don't get it red.

 

Well I tried WD-40, Duck Oil and another type of spray on there and it did no good. I am turning them in the correct direction, its just a case of introducing the heat to rid them of the locktight. That said, should I put fresh locktight on when I replace them? I'm going to take this chance though to paint my Calipers a nice understated colour, as I'm unhappy with the rusted, flaking look they currently have. Thanks for your help so far guys, I'll keep you updated. S.

 

If you you torque them to spec, 140 Nm, (105 ft/lb) you really shouldn't have to use lock tite. That's really tight. I can't believe you broke a breaker bar. That seems almost uncomprehensible unless the breaker bar was made from pig iron.

Be careful putting heat to the caliper area as not damage the pistion seal. Also I highly recommend PB blaster. It is not a lubricant like WD 40 or Duck Oil that really isn't formulated to break down corrosion or adhesives like PB blaster. Nothing works better than PB blaster when you need to break loose a fastener. We used to buy it in cases at the dealerships.

 

It wasn't the bar that broke, it was the connector at the top where the socket joins on. It sheered off! I'm unsure if you can get PB Blaster here in the UK, but I'll check it out. I've got the Caliper off and out the way, its the hanger part I've got the issue with, as that needs to come off so I can remove the Disc/Rotor.

 

Also remember when using heat, to direct the heat to the casing that houses the bolt's threads, and not the head of the bolt.

That's a common mistake which could remove some of the tensile strength of the bolt, resulting in it twisting in two.

Also when using a lubricant, give it plenty of time to work its way in, and do some rapping on the casing with a hammer now and then to help break the seal.

I've known some mechanics who spray a locked bolt 3-5 times per day and tapping here and there, and take up to two days doing it.

They know that patience is easier than drilling and tapping.

Good luck

 

I have bought myself a DIY Blowtorch from B&Q today which I'll try on the naughty little things tommorrow. If this doesn't work, I may finally give in and send him to the Mechanics. But you never know, third time lucky! Thanks for the tip about where to aim the flame, I'll be very careful. Thanks Again, S.

 

hey bro, get a good bit and wrench... the cheaper bits always break.

duralast or craftsman are pretty strong.

 

VICTORY!! At Last I have managed to complete this job, which on a normal time scale or well maintained by previous owner car, would take 3 hours tops has taken 3 weeks. In the end I had to look for some help.

After the heat didn't work, and further bangs and spays also didn't help I went to see the Fitters at the depot. I am a Coach/Bus driver and these guys used tools that were intended for Buses on the car, and it still put up a fight! It took two (BIG) men, 30 mins to get the bolts out and they used the biggest breaked bar they had AND Heat at the same time! As a precaution we fitted brand new bolts and torqued them in and now I have lovely new front brakes! I couldn't beleive how much effort it took though! I'm convinced something has been done wrong somewhere! From now on though future changes should be easy as everything has been done correctly.

As a result I can really feel the difference in braking! Even though everythings not fully bedded in yet the car is 100% better at stopping! Thanks for all your help, Stu.

 

congrats and enjoy