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Hello!
So, I was removing my driver's side front tire to do some work (replace the air suspension compressor) and had a few stuck lug nuts. I applied some rust dissolving stuff, let it sit, then got to work with a breaker bar. Three of the lugs came loose fairly easily, one had to be cranked a bit. But the last one ... the final one ... it broke. Here's a few photos:
Sorry if I don't have the correct words for this, but as you can see from the top photo, the "cap" of the lug snapped off, leaving the bottom part still on the bolt (see second image). The question is - how do I remove the remaining part of the lug nut? So far, I am letting this soak overnight in the rust dissolver stuff to help. My thought is to use a flat-head screwdriver and a hammer to slowly knock it loose in the direction it would turn to be screwed off (counter-clockwise). Is this the best course of action? I have limited tools. Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks in advance.
There is still a threaded part that is still on the post. So, I was assuming I'd have to find a way to screw that off. If you look at the top photo, the top lug ... that long piece that sticks out? That's threaded all the way to the end. And that piece is still on the post. I'm assuming that that piece, due to the angle at the end, is a bit larger than the hole that fits over the post and, as a result, I don't think I can just slide the wheel off. It's late here and the car is not off the ground at the moment. So, I'll give it a shot in the morning.
I'm assuming that that piece, due to the angle at the end, is a bit larger than the hole that fits over the post and, as a result, I don't think I can just slide the wheel off.
The cylindrical part of the wheel nut is not larger, at any point, than the hole in the wheel. It is actually very slightly smaller (for snug fit) but, if the nut is overtightened, it will deform the hole (compress the aluminium) causing the hole to get somewhat smaller and jam around the cylinder of the nut. You will have to wiggle the wheel until it comes off then you may need to carefully rim the hole to reinstate its original diameter.
Any good machine shop can remove the broken stud and replace it. Where in Virginia; if Norfolk area, Abacus Racing can do it for you. Put the wheel back on (or lug nuts if wheel is still attached) and drive it over to a good shop that extract the old . . . the trouble with working on old cars is -- they are old and rust and corrosion are mortal enemies of both the car and the mechanic . . .
There is still a threaded part that is still on the post. So, I was assuming I'd have to find a way to screw that off . . .
Nope . . . unless you have some really weird wheels, the 5 holes are simple drillings of parallel diameter right through full thickness of wheel material. The nut is threaded to the stud . . . not the wheel!
Also, I see no evidence of broken stud, so I suggest you disregard that advice. Your pic shows the broken bit looking like a diametrical spacer between stud thread and wheel drilling! Simple task to wiggle, persuade, or perhaps with temp (and loosely applied) nut on an opposing stud, pull the wheel.off. It will slide off, leaving the broken nose of the nut still threaded on the undamaged stud. Remove that with vice-grip pliers. Keep it is as simple as it sounds!
The wheel should come off then you will probably have to cut the broken piece to remove it from the stud or if you have gas available you can get it red hot then unscrew it.
Re-examining the photos, I agree with Cat: you should be able to pull the wheel off. A small pipe wrench would then help in screwing the broken part from the nut off the stud.