I removed the cam covers from my 1999 XJR as part of the tensioner replacement job, and found cracks in the several of the mounting bolt holes.

Each side has three cracked hole locations. I'm attaching some pix.

I don't **think** these are fatal flaws -- there seems to be plenty of non-cracked surface that will support the 12 Nm of bolt torque.

But I'd be curious what others think. And has anyone else seen this?

-- Curt

 

Coil cover cracks! Yeah, a couple of them on are cracked on the used engine I am swapping into my jag. It is relatively low miles too. My original engine had 176k and they were cracked in one or two spots. I dont think its a big problem at all as long as there is a majority of them evenly distributed. Hooray for crappy plastic! Someone should make some aluminum ones etched with Jaguar, or something.

 

Perhaps a negative comment for a non-professional tech or an inexperienced owner rather than a design flaw is more appropriate. The cover gaskets, I would call them seals or even 'O' rings, are designed for the torque specified.

They do not seal better with further torque.

 

If you have all the pieces, they can be successfully repaired with JB Weld or superglue+baking soda.

Even without all the pieces, you can build up the areas and redrill the hole.

Baking soda acts as a catalyst on cyanoacrylate glues(super glue)

 

Since I use a lot of 'SuperGlue' I would appreciate an explanation on the baking soda (sodium bicarbonate) comment.

 

Someone on JF explained it first because they use the technique to repair nicks and gouges on propellors for ultra-lights. Hey, if it's good enough for a spinning propellor

You will need super glue, baking soda and a flux brush.

Lay out a teaspoon of baking soda on a piece of paper to have it ready because you have to work fast.

First, glue the pieces together as normal, but immediately sprinkle some baking powder on the glued joint on all sides. Wait a few seconds to setup. Then brush off the excess with the flux brush.

Second, build up the joint by flooding the area with some superglue, sprinkle baking soda, brush off. Do several layers.

The resulting joint with fillet was very strong on a broken tail light tab that is meant to hold the interior trim in place. Probably stronger than the original part.

 

I used to build alot of RC airplanes and the method described is good for fillet joints. The baking soda helps to dry it FAST and seems to act as a filler.
You can also use hairspray to speed drying.

bob gauff

 

Hmmm ... time to start selling "Jaguar Plastic Parts Repair Kits" on fleabay

 

Hmm....Time to start designing billet cam covers, Last time I checked I think the base is flat, does any one have a drawing? or center distance for the holes ?

 

The baking soda does speed the drying -- as it is wicking out the product. Many say that this is actually making a weaker joint. -- but it does allow the product to act as a "filler" .....fine if you are going to sand and cover it with another film.

I think a better way to go is the use of an accelerator or activator -- I use them all the time with my woodworking.

 

Sounds like a cheaper alternative to Q-Bond (using filler)


I used this stuff to glue a buddy's cigar lighter to his workbench, very strong stuff.

 

There is a product we use Called T88 made by Atlas fiber co in the same type situations.It becomes more solid than a JB weld etc and you may grind it down with like a Dremel or cut off tool when done and do what ever cosmetics you need if on an exterior part.In this case it would work perfect fr your repairs and concern.

It is used world over for rare bell housings to repair them even aluminum and steel blocks (we don't we weld em unless super rare but it is) and if you add a iron powder to it you can even get a magnetic draw for flash coatings or powder coatings.Or you could paint but it is as hard as steel and will hold substantial tork and will have no problems to hold the OEM spec tork settings.

I can tell you more T88 rolls though Barret Jackson than anywhere else on the planet. I am not sure what its original designation was for but I do know Atlas Fiber carries it and for the serious restoration buff that wants NO come backs and to keep a solid reputation it is a must.It dries clear and as I said it is bias to put additives in it.Just a suggestion.ALSO NOTE IT REPAIRS CRACKED WOOD COATINGS as many guitar and pool cue makers use it for finish coating .There is my loose lips for the month.

I know this but cant get a starter on - Geeesh

 

If it was only wicking it would not produce heat. Only reactions will create heat. The actual chemistry behind the reaction is detailed by credible people on other sites if anyone wants to understand it.

As to strength or suitablilty, anyone can try it out as it only costs maybe ten cents worth of materials and a bit of scrap plastic to try the technique.

 

Sounds ideal for wooden steering wheels with cracks in the finish.

Maybe it'll work for your starter too ... as long as you never want to remove it again

 

The BS is acting as a accelerant -- depending on what you working on this is absolutely fine -- but it can also draw out the product. Super glue does not shrink --