99 xjr

so...either I'm an idiot or the car is just fighting me here.

Got crank bolt out, no issue there.

Now comes the pulley removal. Last time I did this, it was easy breazy. Apply some pressure, tap it a few times, out it comes.

This time it seems the pulley is literally welded to the crank. I'm using the standard 4 hole puller and was able to get really good pressure on it, but it does not look like its moving at all. Of course, then the two 8mm tool attachment holes strip. so now I have to drill out those holes and tap to the next size, which is no easy task.

I guess my question is why is this occurring? I didn't do anything different than the last time.

If there is something else that I can try, even if it involves destroying the stock dampner, I'm fine to do so.

I don't need the car or anything, but having it stuck in my garage is no fun either.

Any help would be great.

Thanks.

 

Often when things get stuck like this heating it up helps.

 

welp, very odd. I figured I only stripped a portion of the threads, so I gave it another go, only adding a socket to the front of the puller to give me a wider bit of purchase.

5 min later it was off. anyway. big relief there.

 

Sometimes, something that seems like it should work can give us cause for concern.
I remember an impatient friend who would strip threads every time he worked on
his car. I bought him a can of WD-40 and a hammer, but he still stripped them.

 

Oddly, I did have the same issue with the crank damper (=balancer = crank pulley). Used the puller, applied lots of force, but it would not budge, Of course I did use WD40, then more and more and more. Nothing. The I completely removed puller and put it on again from scratch - doing nothing different - and this time it worked. I have to assume it is that special spliced ring between bold and pulley, which plays funny bugger and blocks any movement, if moody.

 

WD40 = Water Displacement 40 (NOT a penetrating oil)

Please use a proper penetrant when threaded parts are involved.

WD40 from what I have discerned is basically 'fish-oil' and it does have it's place in the 'toolbox' but there are better products for certain applications.

 

Yes, WD is water displacement, and WD40 is being marketed as penetrant or lubricant. But I will take you comment on board and ask in the shop next time. I actually use more and more "Boston penetrating & multilube spray" ilo. WD40, as it is way cheaper.

 

That is actually the way how the damper is removed. Apply force with puller, release, knock the damper back (plastic hammer), apply force, release etc. and it gets loose after a few cycles. This is because of the spliced ring's (collet) orientation - the harder you pull the damper, the more it wedges/jams onto the collet so you have to do the pull-release cycles to loosen the lock. The diagram below shows the collet (#12) but it is wrongly placed and oriented; it should be flipped 180 deg. and positioned in front of the damper, not behind.

 

Hi M,
thanks for that. Makes perfect sense. So this is the scientific explanation for what I wrote: "That spliced moody ring plays funny bugger..."

 

Investing in a high strength bolt like a 10.9 and threaded in far enough that it almost contacts the timing cover doesn’t strip out.

 

These were, but since i was trying to avoid hitting the cover i was a bit shy about them threading in too far. Oh well.

Merry xmas all

 

Trust me, I understand about hitting the cover. I learned that lesson very early on since I started working on the jags.

Merry Christmas to you and everyone else also.

 

Merry Christmas, guys

 

Not to digress too far off topic, but Bob's important post reminded me that I have been testing a new penetrant and I think it is working really well. It is CRC Knock'er Loose. It's more expensive that my standard go-to penetrants, Liquid Wrench and PB Blaster, but it's not as expensive as Kroil (which I don't feel works any better than LW or PBB despite its expense). So far, every bolt I have applied Knock'er Loose to has turned out after soaking just a few minutes. I saw it at the local NAPA and decided to give it a try.

Over the years, I've tried several different brands of penetrant as well as home-brew formulas (ATF/acetone, dangerous acid solutions, etc.), but I hadn't found anything that seemed to be any more effective than inexpensive LW and PBB. So far, my impression is that Knock'er Loose may actually be sufficiently more effective to be worth its higher cost. I'll be curious to know if anyone else has used it and what your impressions may be.

P.S. Despite all its advertised uses, WD40 is rarely the best product for any application, not even water displacement, and since it is petroleum-based, it can degrade plastic and rubber parts.

Cheers,

Don

 

I remember reading some years ago (saw it on the internet so very confident that it's true / accurate), WD40 is mostly diesel/kero level petroleum plus fragrance, maybe some silicon type lube also. Not the worst thing to put on a stuck bolt but still far from the best. Better to use the good stuff but something's better than nothing if that's all you have.

Eric

 

The cone is a vital part that takes the beating if it all comes loose.
XKR came to me with a damaged crank from not getting the 375Nm on that bolt, see the heat on one of the cones as it tried to weld itself to the crank. Which showed some damage.

Vernier showed 1mm of wear so a replacement cone was machined and the crank nose tidied with emery to remove the burring, slipped it all on and loaded the bolt, it's got another life without a new motor.

That Jaguar diagram makes me laugh each time I see it!

 

Wow! Interesting pictures. Now I finally now, WHY I had to put myself thru the struggles of applying that kind for force when putting the harmonic balancer back on...