So I had an issue where my driver side door handle would not open the door when locked unless I pulled it just right and then the lock would open...so I thought it was a stretched cable...I bought a new one and just put it in and I still have the problem...any ideas what it might be? Is it the door lock solenoid? All the mechanical parts of the locking mechanism looked fine when I installed the new cable...pls help

 

I'm having the same issue. Since the door unlocks fine when I push the unlock button on the dash, I'm assuming that mine is a cable problem.

 

Start by lubbing the door lock mechanisim. I thought I had a cable issue, turned out I just needed lube.

 

good idea! I am getting so tired of messing with these handles, I am thinking of making a push-button interior door handle using door pop solenoids. I broke my LH handle the other night after taking care of what little slack was in the cable. Thats the last straw I think. Its time to open my front doors with a solenoid!

 

Works great ... until your battery dies ... or you have a collision and the power gets cut.

 

I had the same thoughts until I thought about this: Isnt there the same problem even with the stock locks? Doesnt there have to be power anyway to unlock the door when the handle is pulled?

My door didnt even think about unlocking until I pulled the interior handle first to unlock the door. If it doesnt unlock, all the pulling in the world wont open it. I shimmed the cable, which is in another thread I posted and it gave me reliable door openings, but at dinner the other night I broke the handle. I wish these things would unlock manually when the handle is pulled, like a Ford. It seems to me that it unlocks electronically every time though. Thanks in advance.

 

No that's what the cable is for, manual lock release, all that happens with auto lock is the actuators move the locks. Pull a door and it pops locked or not.

You've obviously lived with a stretched cable, and instead of changing the part, you shimmed it, more stretch and wear, it broke. Now go get the cable ordered!

 

Thanks for the info on the locks. Now that you mention it, pulling up the LH one manually will unlock the rest, IIRC. I think you may be right on the cable, but I also dont want to end up like the OP. I think my LH latch is hard to pop or something. It requires much more effort from the outside (and apparently inside) to open than the right side does. I did some adjusting on the outside handle rod and it seemed to improve slightly when entering from the outside. If the cable was stretched (and shimmed), why did my handle still break at the pivot point even though it wasnt maxed out? I suspect the latch is too hard to actuate. I tried actuating the latch from the inside by hand and it was near impossible. I didnt succeed.

 

Just re-read your issue, have you tried lubing all the lock parts? a bit of spray lube here and there and actuating it as you go? Something isn't right if the handle breaks.
I thought you meant the cable snapped, not the handle, sorry!
I can supply one by the way.

 

Does anyone have opinions as to the best lube for the door locks, and where to squirt or apply it?

 

In the past I have always squirted into the opening where the latch meets the door jamb striker. This time I am going to do that and get it from as many angles as possible from inside. If its not too difficult, I may even remove the thing and give it a thorough inspection/lubing. I am going to use silicone lubricant or white lithium grease. If there are any especially dirty parts, I will clean the area with carb cleaner then slather it in lubricant. These doors have been the most annoying thing about this car. It has been just awesome otherwise.

 

i am going to try some WD40 and will let you all know how it goes...

 

Try Triflow it lubricates and lasts better than WD40. Great for key slots when they tumblers get dry. Recommended by the locksmith that did our key and locks for our Fire Stations.