Just when my faith was restored in the yin and the yang my 2000 XJ8 started to flash gearbox fault and was reluctant to move forward. Reverse didn't seem to be an issue but forward was using an excess of rpm to get the car moving? My question is should I wait to get access to an obdll to read codes generated or bite the bullet and get a A Drum coming?

 

Don't bother with the OBD scanner until after the A drum and valve body spool valve have been replaced so you can clear the old codes. Get the parts coming.

 

Would there be a particular kit recommended? I've read that many times the replacement of the A drum, bell housing gasket, and an o- ring or two was all that was required. Thanks ATB

 

Read the following post. There is discussion on parts and links to find them.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-drum-174373/

I have used the a drum from cascade and motorcarman has a link to the one he uses. Either is a good replacement.
As for seals and gaskets I would suggest getting a gasket rebuild kit. They run about $150 and you will only use about a quarter of the gaskets. I have searched and I haven't found a source to by them individually. You can try to reuse the seals from your bad a drum and transfer to the new but if they don't seal properly you'll be taking the transmission back out.
EDIT: Forgot to mention to also replace the pressure valve with the Transgo updated valve. It is around $50.

Best of luck.

 

Thanks Bob, that's great information. Am I assuming correctly that it's stubbornness to move forward but reverse seems to be fine is a clear indication of a failed A drum?
i have read the stories of possibly breaking the pump on installation and having to R&R the tranny a second time for that repair. Also breaking the ears off the bell housing on removal. You understand my concern. It was quite a journey to get her purring again. Kind of breaks my heart I have to relegate her to
" the up on blocks again" so soon.
My wife is overwhelmed that it's back running again but feels like there has been a
"BOOT" placed on it cause she still isn't able to drive it. Thanks

 

It's not guarantee that the a drum is causing your problems but it is more than likely.
When you get the a drum repaired you have the 2 major problems fixed and then your wife will be able to drive it again. You may still have other hiccups but that is to be expected with cars this old.

You live in Hawaii, do you have a problem with salt air corrosion? If you do PB blaster is your friend. I always use it to pre soak exhaust bolts and if you have corrosion problem I would spray it around the bellhousing also.

As for damaging the pump when you reinstall make sure the torque converter is in all the way. Try to get the transmission and the engine to square up as best you can. I always check while I'm mating the transmission to the engine that the torque converter can spin freely and is not in a bind. If there is pressure on the torque converter it is put on the pump.

 

A trick to ensure that the torque converter is fully seated is to measure it before you remove it. Measure from the bell housing edge to a point on the TC and make sure it is the same when you get it back in the trans bell housing.

The easiest way to remove/replace the TC and the forward drum assy is to stand the gearbox on it's tail. Everything is STRAIGHT UP and STRAIGHT DOWN.

I have a steel 30 gallon gear oil barrel that holds the gearbox vertical.

bob

 

I live @ 4000ft. Elevation so far from the coast and salt corrosion and most of this cars life it had been garaged. Very clean both in body and hardware.
Great advice to measure TC seating on removing to have bench mark for install.
The help I've received on this forum has been and continues to be invaluable. I'm a big fan of " first do no harm" so with the help offered here I'm able to do just that. Thanks so much.