I had a leak at the heater hose T I fixed by cutting the hose, installing a T and no leak there now, only to find another leak at the expansion tank. I tried to fix a crack in tank overnight with JB Weld but its still leaking this morning and I figure I will need a new tank. I searched here and found out about special tool to remove lines, called Jaguar dealership a hundred miles away and they will not sell tools except to their techs. So I tried the nail trick and could not get that to work for me, after reading about how to here. I'm afraid to pull to much harder on those fittings in case I break one using the nail and as a novice mechanic could use some advice and encouragement, as I am currently very frustrated.

 

I suggest using 2 fine jeweler type screw drivers, put one down each side of the clip and bring them together at the handle ends to spread the clip's retainer ring, while doing this gently pull the pipe off the tank.
You can't fix these things, they need replacing when cracked.

 

The picture Sean B posted is the special tool you are looking for. There should be one stored on the Part Load Breather Tube. Check at the cam cover fitting and then look on the lower left side of the part load breather connection to the throttle body. Unless someone has changed out the breather tube and not reinstalled the tool it should be there.
An alternative is to take a pair of needle nose pliers, insert them and then spread them apart to apply pressure to the outside bans to release the fitting.

 

https://jlrequipment.service-solutio...0&catID=336130


bob

 

Thank you so much guys, I applied some Flex Seal before reading once cracked must be replaced, so we will see how that does in the morning after twenty plus hours of curing. When pulling the hoses off with makeshift tool, is it a straight pull, or a twist and pull, or push and pull, or anything special kind of pull off.

 

It is unlikely that any glue/sealant will hold. The only repair method that might works is welding of the crack with a heat gun and a rod of similar type of plastic but only as a temporary solution.

The plastic pipe connectors can be rather difficult to pull out (even though the securing ring is correctly spread) as the rubber o-rings inside (viton) tend to stick if not removed for a long time. Spray WD40 into the gap, pull a bit, push back, wiggle, spray more WD40 and it will release.

 

With the heat and pressure involved with the tank -- do yourself a favor a get either a new one or find a used one. Since these do fail you may find the used ones to be $$. It's going to fail again -- and typically on a very hot day when you least want it to occur.

I don't use petroleum based products to lube plastic or "o" rings ... a bit of silicone gel like "Jacks" from a pool supply store is my favorite. You can also find it in tiny packs at the auto store

 

Well, you guys were sure right and after multiple attempts to fix leaking tank it is still leaking. I have just ordered a new tank and it should be here in three business days.

I'm still kind of timid when it comes to removing these lines but am going to give it a try, hoping all go wells and following your advices, I am optimistic :-)

Thank you all so much, it is truly appreciated and additional advice or comments are certainly welcomed.

 

Just be careful -- give them a twist and wiggle. Take note of how they go on the tank -- many put them back incorrectly. The upper goes to the overflow.

Also -- the plastic can get brittle. Don't risk if any look suspect --or if you snap one. They are all available -- $25-30. I replaced all of them on my higher mile R

 

When I break one I just replace it!!!!!!!!!!!! They are not that pricey!!


bob

 

Are they easy to get, like from my local auto parts store ?

 

I ordered a full set from an online dealer -- Have another waiting to do my second R

 

The plastic coolant lines are a 'dealer-only' part I'm sure.
Plenty of dealers ship parts to customers.


bob