Forward Clutch "A" Drum removal FAQ
I removed the forward clutch drum from my zf 5hp24 today. It is cake compared to removing the transmission. Anyway here we go!
Here is a pic of the trans down from the car with the TC still in:

First you pull out the TC and you are left with this.

Next pull out all of the "brunette" bolts. Leave in all the "blonde" ones.

Tap on the back of the bellhousing to remove the bellhousing and pump as an assembly and you are left with this:

Pull out the forward clutch assembly by grabbing the input shaft and sliding it all forward. Dont worry, nothing will come apart unless its broken. You will be left with this:

Here is the forward clutch assembly on the table:

Remove the snap ring from the rear side of the FCD and pull the backing plate or whatever you want to call it out of there:

Remove this part that rides in the bearing/bushing of the "backing plate" from the last step.

Remove the sprocket-shaft assembly from the rear of the FCD. This "sprocket" engages the steel clutches in the drum. It just takes a wiggle and pull.

Tap on the input shaft with your hand and you will knock the damaged drum out of the rear of the foremost drum.

Lastly, pull out the snap ring and all of the clutches and you are ready to reverse this by putting these clutches in your new drum!

Hope this helps someone.
Here is a pic of the trans down from the car with the TC still in:

First you pull out the TC and you are left with this.

Next pull out all of the "brunette" bolts. Leave in all the "blonde" ones.

Tap on the back of the bellhousing to remove the bellhousing and pump as an assembly and you are left with this:

Pull out the forward clutch assembly by grabbing the input shaft and sliding it all forward. Dont worry, nothing will come apart unless its broken. You will be left with this:

Here is the forward clutch assembly on the table:

Remove the snap ring from the rear side of the FCD and pull the backing plate or whatever you want to call it out of there:

Remove this part that rides in the bearing/bushing of the "backing plate" from the last step.

Remove the sprocket-shaft assembly from the rear of the FCD. This "sprocket" engages the steel clutches in the drum. It just takes a wiggle and pull.

Tap on the input shaft with your hand and you will knock the damaged drum out of the rear of the foremost drum.

Lastly, pull out the snap ring and all of the clutches and you are ready to reverse this by putting these clutches in your new drum!

Hope this helps someone.
Thx for the photos. So this was the easy part..... Do you have any photos of getting the tranny out? Or maybe you could take some putting it in, and just have us play them backwards! How is the rear of the engine supported while doing all this?
Alldata says to use an engine support fixture, I just unhooked the crankshaft position sensor and moved the wires so they wouldnt get pinched on the steering rack, and let it hang like the 100 other RWD engines I have pulled transmissions from. You absolutely need one on alot of FWD cars though. I have a fixture, but it would have gotten in my way fighting with that LH cat.
If people are serious I can try to take pics of practically every single step along the way on trans re-installation, like I did on the disassembly. I think its going to be a few days before I get my new drum.
If people are serious I can try to take pics of practically every single step along the way on trans re-installation, like I did on the disassembly. I think its going to be a few days before I get my new drum.
Wonderful post. Yes, we would like pictures of the issues of removing/installing the transmission.
Are you going to address the issue of 'bits' circulating through the torque converter? Most shops would recommend a TC replacement after a hard part failure.
Are you going to address the issue of 'bits' circulating through the torque converter? Most shops would recommend a TC replacement after a hard part failure.
I will do my best to document the reinstallation process, putting the drum in should be as easy as removal, except for getting all the clutches lined up. Someone from the other thread mentioned using a zip tie to align the clutches and I have a good feeling that is what I will be doing too. If I see a bit of metal, I will pull it, but I dont care about the metal that I cant see
. I already got some of it out last week when I changed the filter. I presume the rest of it will get stuck to my freshly cleaned magnets!
The only seal I am replacing is the front pump seal (TC seal). I am going to re-use the pump to case gasket and I will let you all know if I have any leaks. Damn! Just remembered I need to order a pinion seal!
. I already got some of it out last week when I changed the filter. I presume the rest of it will get stuck to my freshly cleaned magnets!
The only seal I am replacing is the front pump seal (TC seal). I am going to re-use the pump to case gasket and I will let you all know if I have any leaks. Damn! Just remembered I need to order a pinion seal!
adding the build up shots will complete a very useful thread - a great addition.
Can you show the work at the top of the trans and engine block?
The cats bolts are my very favourite.....
Can you show the work at the top of the trans and engine block?
The cats bolts are my very favourite.....
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I just got the drum from Oliver at transpartstech and man this thing is really beefed up in the snap ring area compared to the stock part. I ordered it monday morning and I got it today around noon. Oliver is on top of things there for sure.
I will tackle this soon and try to document things as I go along. Hopefully this weekend I will be driving the Vanden Plas!
I will tackle this soon and try to document things as I go along. Hopefully this weekend I will be driving the Vanden Plas!
Well after seeing the new part and the old one side by side, it turns out there is some more disassembly. You have to remove the snap ring from inside the drum and remove the pistons from the clutch drum. I had a torn O-ring on the A clutch balance piston
Looks like I will have to find a seal kit after all.
EDIT:
Oliver at transpartstech is the bomb! He is going to get me a rebuild kit for like $200 or so and I will have it by Tuesday! I cant wait to get this thing going again!
Looks like I will have to find a seal kit after all.EDIT:
Oliver at transpartstech is the bomb! He is going to get me a rebuild kit for like $200 or so and I will have it by Tuesday! I cant wait to get this thing going again!
Last edited by ixj8it; Jan 14, 2011 at 09:03 PM. Reason: adding info
good thread, looking forward to seeing the finished product, and the step by step process. Remember, i think you are limited to 8 pics per post, so feel free to continue it one after the other.
Can you post the contact info for Oliver at transpart tech and I noticed you did not completey remove the transmission. Is that correct.
Third can you show a better pic of the damaged part. I am removing mine tomorrow. Same problem
Thank You for the wonderful help!
Third can you show a better pic of the damaged part. I am removing mine tomorrow. Same problem
Thank You for the wonderful help!
I bought mine from Oliver and installed it. Same price as a new one but alot stronger so I don't think it will fail again.
http://stores.ebay.com/Transmission-Parts-Technologies
bob gauff
http://stores.ebay.com/Transmission-Parts-Technologies
bob gauff
Technically, the transmission was removed, I just never bothered with putting it on the bench since it was so heavy. It would be impossible to do this job without pulling the trans out far enough to remove the TC and pump. Bob is right. I dont think it's going to fail again, but I have noticed after installing mine, the downshifts are more noticeable. I dont know why. I still also need to put together the write up on re-installing the transmission. I have all the pics, just no time to do it all yet. I am also going to sell this thing soon after I do the secondary timing chain tensioners and re-cover the console top.
GREAT Thread BUT --- Arghhh! I have another post up concerning a project that led me to this thread!
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3&goto=newpost
I'm slowly gearing up to swapping an xk8 engine with 198K to an xk8 engine with 37K. It's been suggested that while I have the replacement engine out, that I replace my "A-Drum" and I was digging this post lol,,,, until...
ixj8it - where the heck did you get off to? Its not too late to drop in those pictures and descriptions.
As a new member that had a LOT to learn (still do), with a Cat that really needed some love and attention when I purchased her (thanks for the support!) I realize now that I've started more than one thread --- and haven't been able to follow thru to conclusion (some of my issues are still un-resolved),,, I think I just learned a lesson of what NOT to do, lol. I also realize I can be doing a much much better at contributing to the Forum by taking pictures and documenting my learning, rather than mostly taking...
Whats up ixj8it? Can we "tag" people like on Facebook, lol?
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/s...3&goto=newpost
I'm slowly gearing up to swapping an xk8 engine with 198K to an xk8 engine with 37K. It's been suggested that while I have the replacement engine out, that I replace my "A-Drum" and I was digging this post lol,,,, until...
ixj8it - where the heck did you get off to? Its not too late to drop in those pictures and descriptions.
As a new member that had a LOT to learn (still do), with a Cat that really needed some love and attention when I purchased her (thanks for the support!) I realize now that I've started more than one thread --- and haven't been able to follow thru to conclusion (some of my issues are still un-resolved),,, I think I just learned a lesson of what NOT to do, lol. I also realize I can be doing a much much better at contributing to the Forum by taking pictures and documenting my learning, rather than mostly taking...
Whats up ixj8it? Can we "tag" people like on Facebook, lol?
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