the rear needle bearings are diy changeable, it's the center bearings that are a no-go.

 

also guys and gals! please pray to the Car-Gods! that i did not warp the heads or gasket...pretty please! loll that is what keeps me up at night lolll

i did a compression test they all tested within 115-120psi range with 5 crankovers....but it did reach 228-230F in temp...that is the monster im afraid of :/ but doing some research online aluminum heads dont warp until 245F or above...im praying our jags can handle a little bit of heat! didnt abuse it either just drove it home and cut her open. (about 8-10 mins)[/QUOTE]

230 isn't bad, its when you get to 250 that I would be concerned...your compression test bears that out.

 

Thanks, I am in the process of removing hads due to a gasket failure, I hope a gasket failure, bobbles in coolant.
Have just pulled all the Intake and SC.
Thanks for parts lists, helps.
Guess you will also need the brake line booster connection. Mine had disintegrated.

PN. C2S15816

 

*bump*

okay i forgot how these connect...

the vac lines from the throttle body and coolers...

over-view..




lines to the top of this picture (left side *USA* driver side)

 

good luck with yours sir...what caused the gasket to fail? overheated it? *paranoia kicking in*

 

today was the first fire up after putting everything back together and she started up but i got a few codes that popped up but that will be a another thread. but if anyone has questions about this ill be more than happy to help and answer the questions that i do know. ill be posting a new thread for the codes im throwing now and a expansion tank leak under the bumper. thank you all who helped along the way! im so glad the gaskets are safe. but do be aware dont go above 230f max is 245f! i start freaking out at 210 now! loll she ran for 30 minutes around 195-203f! i replaced hoses, vac hoses, thermostat, water pump, S/C fluid.

before starting her up since she was sitting for two months, so i put a little oil in the spark plug holes before the initial start up, and did a hard reset (with battery) before firing her up.

 

Gaskets on these early ones seem to fall as the coolant rots out the composite material, then compression pressure gets into coolant and forces the fire ring out of round. I have parts now, using the improved 4.2 gaskets, new head bolts, timing chains etc.
Have photos and will post a write up this weekend.

 

oh understood sir. thank you. also dsetter quick question...remember on the elbow of the s/c there was the brake line that connects to it...i did not have the correct washer/gasket thing you stated...instead i got liquid rubber that hardens into rubber kinda??? loll but anyways did your car throw any CELs or codes when yous disintegrated? i kinda regret not ordering the correct gasket for it :/ because now im wondering if i sealed it correctly...any way of checking it from the master brake cylinder? or a process to see if its working correctly?

 

Can't really check seal except for the effect if it leaks. A bad seal will cause lean codes or high fuel trims. You can monitor trims while engine is running and spray some propane gas in around the area which will cause them to quickly change. Or smoke test it.

 

Very informative. Thanks for sharing your experience. I hope your Jag is running much better ☺