Pulled the codes today, only have c1155 (lf speed sensor). I'm assuming that it is worth at least trying a cable rather than sending the abs mod in (tried to fix the module on the xk only to have it come back a few months later so I sent it in). Are the cables the same on the xk and xj? I think I have a spare one from the xk parts car I had. If it was the module there would likely be the c1095 right? Oddly it came on a few times then went out but has now been on for the past 4 days and didn't clear when I cleared the codes with my reader.

 

Mine had the same fault. I sent it to one ebay rebuilder but it was still not working so I bought a used one. Try contacting ASI and see if they know how to fix it. Of course, it would be best to swap the right side cable and sensor first to see if the code moves. Have you tried cleaning the reluctor and sensor?

Now that I look, I see my comments were in the reverse order of logical approach., please excuse.

 

Wait, are you referring to the XK8 or XJR?

 

The XJR. I have some parts from the XK. Haven't done anything but pull the codes. This one has been rock steady abs code wise all its life, nothing until now at 115k. I guess first thing is I should check the ohms rather than pulling it apart. Think the cables are the same from the xk to xj? I know the sensor should be. I did see someone out of China is selling sensors for 25 or so on flebay.

Spent the past 1/2 hour looking to no avail. What pins am I checking. Isn't there a pic showing which ones are which somewhere or am I just getting old and dumb.?

 

I have NEVER seen a sensor fail without a wheelbearing meltdown and destroy the sensor. There is a possibility that the sensor can fail but I have replaced dozens of link harnesses and NO sensors.

I also have a defective ABS module with a wheel speed sensor fault that would not clear until I replaced the module. I know the module failed but I have dozens of old modules from collecting them from the dealer when I worked there.

I used DATALOGGER to watch the speed sensors and one was off-line. I performed a continuity test and the harness was intact. I just substituted a good ABS module and the fault was GONE. I marked the old module BAD and threw it in a pile of defective electronics for recycling.

If anyone wants the defective module, I can give it to you but it has a PERMANENT wheel speed sensor fault. I don't remember which one of the 5 different modules it is for the X100/X308 cars.

The 2003 XJR will need the JLM21323 if it has failed. The wheel speed link harness can be INTERMITTENT and cause the fault because it is always flexing as the suspension moves.

If the C1155 is ALWAYS ON then it will be easy to check the link harness for continuity. If it is intermittent then it will be more difficult to diagnose but the link harness is my best guess.

bob

 

I think in this case it's likely to be the link harness. As I mentioned before, swapping the two sides will determine the fault cause. I have supplied a link to the pin out for a 99 XK8 module. It may be the same for yours.

http://jagrepair.com/images/AutoRepa...heet%20XK8.pdf

 

Well first I tried to check the continuity but I'm guessing the pins aren't the same from the xk to the xj as I didn't get anything from 3 of 'em. Pulled the sensor, cleaned it up and reinstalled, no change. swapped in a xk8 harness (they aren't the same, different lengths and different inner plug but I just used two jumper wires between). Still the light was on. Swapped the sensor with an xk8 one and bingo, no more light for now so all things point to a bad sensor. Sadly now I don't have any spares though. Anybody try one of the $30 new chinese sensors?

 

Wise man once say:Cheap Chinese spare better than no spare at all.
Might as well try it.

 

Thanks for the update. Keep us posted because we all learn form the experiences of others or we have to suffer through life learning as we go (sometimes fatally) occasionally at the expense of others..

Kinda like 'hey y'all hold my beer and watch this!!!!!!!!'

bob

 

Yeah now you know someone who had a sensor fail without his wheel bearing going awol. I did make sure I checked for play real good before putting it back together. Oh and you don't want me to hold your beer. I'm Irish.

 

You can hold it and I'll just get another. I keep more than 1 in the beer fridge in the garage. I'm mostly German on my dad's side. English, Scot and Irish on my mom's.

bob

 

I've been having a long nasty experience derived from a suspect throttle body assy (TBA) on my 2002 XJR, which has always included the dreaded "limp home" mode. You simply have no idea when and where the car will go into that mode. The damaged throttle Position sensor, i.e, Potentiometer (or pot) diagnosis make sense when they hear that, as long as I keep rpm's above 2000 rpm's the car runs fine, but as soon as I hit traffic or a red light and have to slow down (and with it bring the pot position into the damaged area), here we go again.

They (then called Briish Eurotech, in Lawndale, CA) had previously installed a used TBA and it worked for a few months, but it finally started showing its age and with it bringing the nasty limp home mode back. So, I went back to them (now called "South Bay British") and this time they wouldn't work on it, "unless you bring your own TBA". They wouldn't buy one and install it, so I purchased a refurbished unit from ASI and brought it to them, only to find that it didn't work. They were not hesitant to insist in that they did not want to work on this problem "because it's nothing but trouble".

So, I took the car to (Ian) Mitchell's in Culver City and they, too, said that the throttle body assembly from ASI was no good and recommended that the only way out of this one was just buying a brand new assy from the dealer. So, I bit the $2,350.00 bullet (over $3K out the door) and the car now runs just fine.

Ian said he has looked for a possible replacement pot all over the world for over ten years but he has not been able to find one anywhere, mainly because of the odd way in which these pots are set up.

So, being that this is a pot, it is no doubt a wear item that has its days numbered. My 2002 XJR has 95,000 miles and I would imagine that any XJR out there with these many miles is an obvious candidate for the infamous limp home mode due to the corrupted information that the ECU is getting from the damaged pot in the throttle body.

Too bad that Jaguar (even with Ford's R&D funds then) never resolved this issue in a more practical (cheaper?) way for XJR owners.

....Or, is there a better alternative out there that I just didn't know about?

Cheers,