Alright so I am in the SW Missouri area to start off at. have a 1998 XJR that I lost the keys to. Since I have no locksmith or dealer close to me for new key/programming available. I opted to purchasing a same year XJR ECM, body module, key module, tumbler and key, black ring around the tumbler and black module under the ECM. The key turns, lights come on, fuel pump primes the system, but the engine does not crank.

All this is while having jumper cables attached to assure voltage doesn't drop.

I really need help getting this thing back on the road. Please and thank you!

 

@ncanales33
What tools do you have? What scanners do have?
might be able to help.

 

$20 mongoose could've saved you all this trouble. go get a cable and pirate SDD

takes 5 minutes to put keys in the normal way

 

My boss is king of the “just 5 minutes”. I tell him to get out in the shop and show me. Stays in his office chair….
How’s that P1111 coming along in that 4.2 98’ R coming along? Just a 5 minute drive cycle should cover that. 😄

 

It's always wise to have a backup set of keys. Especially for these ladies.

 

To quote an old Geico ad, the neanderthal says, "that's helpful, Randy."

I think you are going to have a locksmith with the right software package drive down from KC and set you up. Are you sure you don't just need to reset the fuel shut off switch behind the passenger-side floor wall?

 

Just average tools and an Alltel scanner

 

I am unaware of what a mongoose is. Could you please explain

 

The car primes, I can hear the fuel pump. But the car does not even try to crank over.

 

Are there currently any hard fault codes?

 

@ncanales33 @xalty,

Mongoose cable will not work on this vehicle, and normal sdd will not work either.

And this is not a five minute job. Would be nice if it was.

Which autel scanner do you have ?

 

yes it will. immo setup and keys can be done with the worst clones you can buy, gna600 not required at all. hell even my launch can put keys in these

immo setup and add a pair of keys takes 5 minutes tops combined

 

The SDD versions that will default to LEGACY IDS should configure transponders for X308 and X100.

 

Xalty,

You're assuming a mongoose cable will work on a 1998 jaguar to program Immobilizer... and I'm telling you 100% it's not going to work.
this is not a canbus vehicle, fake clone mongoose will never work, your assumptions are wrong.

Have you tested a mongoose cable on a 1998 Jaguar, or is this just you thinking it should work ??

Download a wiring diagram for the obd port, and check what communication protocols are on that jaguar, and check check the specs of the fake clone mongoose cable, it doesnt cover the communication protocol that's needed.

Your Launch tool has more communication protocols than the fake clone mongoose...
I think you should test the fake mongoose cable on an older jaguar so you understand what im saying.

 

I don't know about MANGOOSE (AKA fake mongoose cables) but a long time ago I called DREWTECH, ordered a Mongoose cable and talked to the owners.(they were originally from DFW area of Texas)

The Drewtech Mongoose was approved by Jaguar as a recommended shop tool.

I used SDD 130 but all the cars I work on use WDS or IDS so I never used SDD. (I left the dealer in 2006 way before SDD)

The SDD 130 would revert to Legacy IDS and work for most of the old X300 and ALL the X100 and X308.
I finally found a Rotunda VCM and DELL laptop and sold the Mongoose to a forum member here a decade or so ago.

The X100 and X308 are the first Jaguars to use the CAN bus and then the X200 used the FORD PCM to avoid paying royalties for the CAN bus.(SCP only)

 

yes i have and yes it works. fake mongooses have problems with L line wakeup and harder scp flash programming tasks. neither is an issue on a 308.

 

Getting back to the original issue: NC33, are there any independents, or Ford dealers, who might have a software system that can program your keys?

 

There are none close by that are able to do it.

I have now swapped ECM, body module, immobilizer, tumbler, key module, and module in the trunk. Everything except Guage cluster and still no crank.

 

I haven’t reread this thread so pardon me if it’s been discussed.

If you know where the starter relay is at and you either swapped the relay with a less important one for example: rear fog lights that’s likely in new condition as it probably doesn’t get used hardly at all, it’s worth a try. If that doesn’t work, you can take that starter relay out, jump the 2 terminals with a heavy gauge wire (investigate which 2 terminals first!) and the starter should engage the flexplate even with keys in pocket. If that doesn’t do anything, check your starter for proper connections, a good ground from the transmission to the body. Let’s see if your power and ground connections are good first.

 

This is a key problem: you are going to have to find somebody who can program the key to your car!