XJ XJ8 / XJR ( X308 ) 1997 - 2003

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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 10:48 PM
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johnny screwdriver's Avatar
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From: vancouver wa
Cool howdy y'all

new to the sight. I have a1998 xj8,brg with tan,65k miles with a lot of up-grades. Things like upper and lower control arm bushings, front hub bearings,chain tensioners,oil pump,metal thermostat housing ect.-ect.-ect.I am currently working on the timing chains.(a-bank secondary broke after the new tensioners were installed.) Iam looking forward to meeting new friends and jag lovers and swapping war stories.
 
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Old Dec 4, 2010 | 10:58 PM
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Well . . . welcome to the forum!

If we can help just holler.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 08:04 AM
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And, if you don't mind an opinion, I might worry about the root cause of the broke chain. That has not been reported before. Are you sure you had it timed right?
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 11:58 AM
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thank you, sparkenzap for your interest. to tell you the truth I am not sure about anything. I paid to have the adjusters changed by a guy that was referred to me by a friend. SOME FRIEND! This is the reason I have taken on the maintanece of my jag myself.I figure if anyone can screw it up---- I can!!!
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 01:04 PM
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yep-
Well search the archives for either of the procedures to set the cam timing right when you do the job. This is one of the few areas that Jags are pretty different from other cars. There are no keys in the cams and timing is not set to TDC. There is a defined procesure and you will be fine if you follow it. BTW, the procedure that does not remove the secondary chain sprocket would not be good for you since there is a good chance yours is set wrong now.
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 01:26 PM
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Here is where I am at. I have purchased all the right tools, the chains ect. have cleaned all my parts and am ready o put it together. Today I'll start with locking the crank in position with the tool that inserts at the crank position sensor. after that I can lock down the cams on b-bank and remove the chains. I will then install the cams on a-bank and lock them down and install the secondary chains and slack adjusters after pinning them in the collapsed position. after that I am pretty much in the dark. thanks,john
 
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Old Dec 5, 2010 | 09:28 PM
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I understand from your comments that you have the lock down set with only one bar. After pining the flex plate and locking the cams into alignment install the chain and tensioner for that side, remove the pin from the tensioner and tighten the exhaust cam bolt to the specified torque. Considering that the entire cam operation depends on that friction fit between the cam and the sprocket I tightened mine probably more than specs. Then move to the other side and do the same. You didn't mention so I will ask if you purchased the shorter tensioner bolts? Important that they be used as the longer ones for the plastic tensioners will bottom into the holes and not seal the oil pressure ports.

After you finish you will understand just how easy this is.
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:40 AM
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Good morning to all and thank you test point for your reply. I actually do have two bars for locking the cams wich should make this a simpler task. Did not know about the longer bolts. I will be sure to check them. I also found (after grazing thru a lot of old posts) a link to a sight where I could download a 63 page,complete with excellent pics, of the entire proceedure. Many thanks to this forum and it's inhabitants. On another note. I have discovered that a hole was blown in the under-side of the intake runner o0n b-bank no. 2 cylinder. Is this normal???----NOT!!! After researching I find there are two different intake manifolds. Is the later style interchangable with the early style and if so, are there any mods to be done?
 
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Old Dec 6, 2010 | 11:43 AM
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correction on last post. The hole is on a-bank no. 2 cyl. thanks.
 
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