Humidity causes: C1096 code, ABS-light, no TRAC/ASC message
Chassis code C1095
Intermittent: ABS-light lit + no TRAC/ASC message (at which time traction-control and ABS don't operate)
- High humidity (or rain) triggers this consistently, to the point where it was off one night when I started driving to a friend who has a beach-front home (very high humidity), error lights came on while approaching the water-front area (came on during driving). Parked there for a few hours, started the car and the errors were still on, drove back to mainland, shut the car for a quick pit stop and restarted and all errors were gone. HAS ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS FROM HUMIDITY/RAIN?
- Battery? my battery has been struggling to start the car during sub-30-degree days for about 4-months now (but it always does start, just takes 2-3 seconds of cranking), this C1095-problem has only started in the last 10-days, exactly when the weather has gotten warmer and the car now always starts quickly/normally
- ABS Module? Is there any potentially-easier solution than replacing the ABS module?
- I cleaned all 4 wheel sensors about 5,000 miles ago and it was unnecessary (they were mostly clean when I first pulled them out)
- I checked the battery connections to the under-hood fuse boxes, all are solid-connections and are totally dry and rust-free (underneath the rubber covers)
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
Intermittent: ABS-light lit + no TRAC/ASC message (at which time traction-control and ABS don't operate)
- High humidity (or rain) triggers this consistently, to the point where it was off one night when I started driving to a friend who has a beach-front home (very high humidity), error lights came on while approaching the water-front area (came on during driving). Parked there for a few hours, started the car and the errors were still on, drove back to mainland, shut the car for a quick pit stop and restarted and all errors were gone. HAS ANYONE ELSE EXPERIENCED THIS FROM HUMIDITY/RAIN?
- Battery? my battery has been struggling to start the car during sub-30-degree days for about 4-months now (but it always does start, just takes 2-3 seconds of cranking), this C1095-problem has only started in the last 10-days, exactly when the weather has gotten warmer and the car now always starts quickly/normally
- ABS Module? Is there any potentially-easier solution than replacing the ABS module?
- I cleaned all 4 wheel sensors about 5,000 miles ago and it was unnecessary (they were mostly clean when I first pulled them out)
- I checked the battery connections to the under-hood fuse boxes, all are solid-connections and are totally dry and rust-free (underneath the rubber covers)
ANY HELP IS GREATLY APPRECIATED!!!
[QUOTE-
- Battery? my battery has been struggling to start the car during sub-30-degree days for about 4-months now (but it always does start, just takes 2-3 seconds of cranking), this C1095-problem has only started in the last 10-days, exactly when the weather has gotten warmer and the car now always starts quickly/normally
- ABS Module? Is there any potentially-easier solution than replacing the ABS module?
- I cleaned all 4 wheel sensors about 5,000 miles ago and it was unnecessary (they were mostly clean when I first pulled them out)
- I checked the battery connections to the under-hood fuse boxes, all are solid-connections and are totally dry and rust-free (underneath the rubber covers)
[/QUOTE]
You have checked the wheel sensors yes....but did you check their leads and connections?
If it happens during wet weather, it's more than likely moisture is finding it's way into the lead or connector.
It sounds to me like you could do with a new battery.
Do you own or use a battery charger?
These modern cars need to have their battery charged at least once a month if not more.
98% of these problems are caused by poorly functioning batteries.
There's a whole lot of electronic wizzardry on these cars and sitting around with a below par battery is always a recipe for trouble.
Get your self a good quality 4-6 stage automatic charger that is designed to charge calcium batteries.
If you are going to replace your battery, don't buy open celled cheap crap!
OEM spec. is a modern sealed Calcium 100a/h 800CC jobbie ;o]
- Battery? my battery has been struggling to start the car during sub-30-degree days for about 4-months now (but it always does start, just takes 2-3 seconds of cranking), this C1095-problem has only started in the last 10-days, exactly when the weather has gotten warmer and the car now always starts quickly/normally
- ABS Module? Is there any potentially-easier solution than replacing the ABS module?
- I cleaned all 4 wheel sensors about 5,000 miles ago and it was unnecessary (they were mostly clean when I first pulled them out)
- I checked the battery connections to the under-hood fuse boxes, all are solid-connections and are totally dry and rust-free (underneath the rubber covers)
[/QUOTE]
You have checked the wheel sensors yes....but did you check their leads and connections?
If it happens during wet weather, it's more than likely moisture is finding it's way into the lead or connector.
It sounds to me like you could do with a new battery.
Do you own or use a battery charger?
These modern cars need to have their battery charged at least once a month if not more.
98% of these problems are caused by poorly functioning batteries.
There's a whole lot of electronic wizzardry on these cars and sitting around with a below par battery is always a recipe for trouble.
Get your self a good quality 4-6 stage automatic charger that is designed to charge calcium batteries.
If you are going to replace your battery, don't buy open celled cheap crap!
OEM spec. is a modern sealed Calcium 100a/h 800CC jobbie ;o]
Last edited by xjay8; Apr 10, 2014 at 05:59 AM.
C1095 is usually a bad solder connection to the abs pump. Once you are confident that the battery is fully charged, do a hard reset by removing the neg. battery cable and touching it to the pos. terminal for 30 sec. If the C1095 occurs again, send the abs module to ASI in Tn, or other repair service found on ebay. They will test it and repair if required for under $100. Or find instructions on the forum or at jagrepair.com for DIY.
1. If it's indeed the battery causing this, then why is it humidity dependant? The battery is obviously weak, but it's the biggest one sold by auto zone, something like 1100cc and with current warm weather it starts easily every time (and had always successfully started on the first try, just would take a few seconds of cranking) - a battery charger is not an option for us city folk who park on the street...
2. What wheel speed wire/connections should I be checking for water infiltration? Is that really likely?
3. The Abs module restore is an issue as I need my car operative daily, no problem swapping units but I cannot remove it and leave the car undriveable while they restore it :-( anyone know of an advance replacement option?
2. What wheel speed wire/connections should I be checking for water infiltration? Is that really likely?
3. The Abs module restore is an issue as I need my car operative daily, no problem swapping units but I cannot remove it and leave the car undriveable while they restore it :-( anyone know of an advance replacement option?
While there are lots of reports that the ABS light comes on for low battery, C1095 is another matter. As RJ237 already told you, there is a well known problem with the motor power connector. And that is the code for it.
You don't need to be down to send the module in for repair. But it isn't all that difficult to DIY. In either case, once you loosen the fasteners, roll the entire pump/module assy up, forward, and inboard toward the center until you can get to the bottom of the module. I believe it is fixed by 2 torx screws. Remove it and replace the pump asy to its original position and cinch down the fasteners. You won't have anti-lock brakes nor traction control while it's away....but you don't have either as long as you are sporting the C1095 code, either.
(Yes, during application of the above procedure you will be bending some brake lines. Take your time, take care not to kink any and all will be well - they will go back pretty much just like they were)
(Yes, during application of the above procedure you will be bending some brake lines. Take your time, take care not to kink any and all will be well - they will go back pretty much just like they were)
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Thank you, why would humidity effect as bad solder joint though?
Is the module the certain culprit? I'd hate to go through that much trouble and money and then continue to have this issue.
Is the module the certain culprit? I'd hate to go through that much trouble and money and then continue to have this issue.
I could speculate on the humidity correlation, but it is really a moot point. Either you have the fault reported hundreds of times that is associated with that error code, you have a bad pump motor, (which I have never heard of), or you have a erroneous fault report from the module. Those are the facts. You decide what to do!
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