Would anybody have an oil dipstick for an XJR? Looking to know the total length of it.

I bought one of the generic ones off eBay for an MB 722.6 transmission but its much longer than the dipstick tube.

Cheers,

Mark

 

That is how it's supposed to be, the end has tabs on it so it stops at a certain depth for measurement. I've attached a PDF describing dipstick operation for the XJR

 

Perfect, thank you.

 

Many are surprised to learn that it is a TOOL and NOT a car part!!!!!

bob

 

I, too, have a generic gearbox dipstick for my XJR. Has anyone measured how far it should go down the tube until it stops at the bottom of the pan? Mine stops at 25 inches (63.5cm) and there's still more than the 10 - 20cm excess stated (somewhere that I've been reading) as the norm for the tool. 25 inches sounds and looks sufficient, but there are a few turns and such ... just enough to make me wonder. Especially when I don't see any fluid on the stick when checking the fluid level.


So, I figured that I would remove the pan and see where the stick was stopping. I bought a filter kit a few years ago and never put it in, so I could do that and freshen up the fluid at the same time. Then I was reminded why I hadn't put the new filter in: I can't get the drain plug out. I even broke off a hex head in the plug trying to get out, so it has a little more than the 22nm of torque specified in the workshop manual.


Thoughts? I don't want to get a bigger hammer out of the box just yet ...

 

Hi,
had this too and found out that somehow the oil filler tube had a dent or a constriction somewhere in the lower third of its length where the turns are, so that the dipstick didn't reach down into the oil pan.
Solved this by replacing with a new oil filler tube (NNC4540AE for MY2000 XJR).
Worked out like a dream.
Cheers, Alexander

 

Sorry, I overlooked your question:
Well...another difficulty that I experienced too. Bought a used oil pan from a MB 722.6 tranny off eB** and fitted a new copper ring + Hex plug. Jaguar does NOT use a jaguar-specific oil pan, it's a stock Mercedes oil pan, which is available from a lot of cars.
Removing the old oil pan (with the screwed hex bolt stuck) was a little messy, as the ATF will drip all over the place when you're loosening the pan bolts. A huge pan to collect all the ATF will do a great job ;-)

Fingers crossed!

 

Hi Alexander,


Thanks for the response(s). I figured that I could loosen the pan and see what happens. I do have a big plastic drain pan to catch the fluid, and I have the front of the car on stands with the right side a couple of notches higher for a little fluid control. Hopefully the pan bolts aren't torqued to 200nm ...


Mark
2002 XJR-100

 

*gg*
Hopefully not...If I remember right, the exact torque setting for the 6 pan bolts is 8 Nm.
By the way, just an advice as you're already down there: Change the connector of the transmission harness too! The connector sleeve has two o-rings preventing the ATF entering the wiring harness. The stock o-rings are too small by design. So they often start to leak. If the first o-ring goes, you won't notice it under the car, as the ATF is entering the wiring harness. This can lead to miscommunication with the transmission control module. From MB drivers its reported several times, that the ATF is even sucked up into the TCM because of capillary forces.
Just google "722.6 connector leak" and you'll find plenty of results about this issue.
The connector itself is just a few bucks and it will cost you just a couple of minutes more to change it. You only can replace it with the ATF drained. Otherwise it will get messy again and you'll cover the electrical connector with ATF - and that's exactly what you definitely should avoid ;-)

PS: you will notice a defective connector only, if the second o-ring goes too...then the ATF will drip on the garage floor. But then the first is already gone and you have to expect ATF in the electrical connection.

 

Maybe I should have added the info, that the aftermarket connectors have upgraded = thicker o-rings (e.g. from Febi Bilstein etc).

 

Info for you.

bob

 

Yes, 8-10nm on the pan bolts; 22-24nm on the plug.

The connector was done two years ago by the local Jag dealer. (I wasn't too impressed with their work as I had to return within 5 minutes of picking up the car because of a pinched O-ring at the fuel pressure regulator, then I got a Restricted Performance cause the MAP vacuum line was disconnected.) Anyway, I took a look at it yesterday when I was breaking tools trying to get the plug out and it appears to be in good shape. My concern is that I don't think that there's enough ATF in the box. I did some work over the past few months, and one thing that I did was to remove the radiator for cleaning. Actually, both radiators. In doing that, I lost about half a liter of ATF, and a 'new noise' developed when I drove it again. This noise sounds like a valve tappet not getting oil; however, it only occurs when the car has been sitting for a while and when I accelerate. It can't be heard from the engine bay at start-up, and goes away after a few minutes. So, I'm thinking that when the connector was done, the dealer put the old fluid back in and only to the 'min' level, so that the loss of another half liter is causing this little 'rattle.' Other than that, the gearbox is working fine, which is a good thing since it has 173k miles on it. I'm supposed to go visit some friends this weekend that live about a five hour drive from here, so I'm tempted to just drop a quart of ATF down the tube and see if my noise goes away. Then I can take things apart next week and see what needs to be renewed.

Mark

 

Before just tossing in fluid ***** nilly, you may want to read this first. http://etereman.com/blog/racing-transmission/the-w5a580-is-one-strong-transmission-but-it-is-not-without-fault-here-is-what-to-look-out-for

 

Thanks, Highhorse. I agree as I just came in from messing with the dipstick and got it a few more CMs down the tube. I now see ATF about two-thirds of the way up the scale and I haven't started the engine yet today. So, I think that I will read the article that you sent and then go check the cold/hot level(s) before doing anything else.

 

Thanks to Bob (motorcarman) for the references.


Mark