Hey guys, I need some help. You guys have helped me out tremendously in the past and hopefully will be able to come to the rescue now.
I have a 1998 XJ VDP. It has been sitting for over a year due to a knackered rear diff. The engine was running like a champ before it was parked and now will not start at all. The first thing I figured was wrong was that the gas had gone bad. That is understandable considering the length it had been running. I removed the fuel filter and cleared the line pressure at the fuel rail. I went to go crank the engine over to cycle the fuel pump and no fuel came out of the lines where the filter used to be attached. Uh-oh. The fuel pump was working just fine when I parked it. How can it suddenly not be working at all? What the unholy F**K?
I checked to see if the relay was working by disconnecting the negative battery cable, turning the key to the "ignition-on" position, and reconnected the negative lead; hoping to hear the fuel pump buzzing away. Nothing. The P1 relay made a noise but that is about it. With the key still in the on position I disconnected the negative cable and reconnected it several times to make sure I could hear the relay clicking on and I verified that the relay was working. I went back inside to get the key and my instrument cluster was lit up like a Christmas tree. The oil light, battery light, brake light, and Check engine light are now on. WTF? I tried a hard reset and they are still on.
My questions:
A.) How do I turn those little buggers off assuming something didn't jack something up by disconnecting the battery with the ignition still on .
B.) Why is the fuel pump not working now? Has anybody experienced something similar?
C.) Assuming the fuel pump actually does work, How can I jump the fuel pump relay to drain the rest of the bad gas in the tank?
Please help me resolve this.
I need to have the car running before I can accurately diagnose the rear diff issue.
Thanks guys!

 

Every March-April there is a rash of fuel pump failures due to storage over the winter. The solution for the same issues on the Volvo's that I am fond of is to tap the fully exposed pump with the ignition power on. That works most of the time but it is a little difficult to tap the in-tank Jaguar pump. I would suspect that a lot of these failed Jaguar pumps would run if bench tested with a small hammer near by.

Any other issues should be addressed with a fully charged battery and the hard boot of the computer systems.

 

I'll see if that knocks loose the external pump. BTW, where exactly is the external fuel pump?

 

On the Volvo's the pressure pump is outside the tank and you can tap it without even jacking the car up.

 

What teat point means is you are out of luck. There is no external pump on the Jag. Also, you may have a problem with the instrument pack by fooling with the battery connection with the ignition on.

 

Fellow former turbo brick here as well. I had a fully built 82 Volvo 244 Turbo with a B230F swap with a 16 valve cylinder head, low pressure turbo, custom fuel cell, roll cage, mega-squirt, etc. RESPECT! LOL!
Yes I know exactly where the external fuel pump is for the k-jetronic mechanical fuel injection system because I swapped it out for a Bosch LH-Jetronic fuel pump. However, the Jaaaaaag is slightly more complex. Haha!
I thought the Volvo was complicated back in the day, but it pales in comparison to my new love. I'm pretty sure it's on the bottom of the tank above the rear diff. I might just drop the whole rear axle tomorrow, seeing as how I have nothing better to do and it has to come out anyway. We shall see...

 

Out of luck? So what, I should just call the junkyard and sell them the car because I can't hear the fuel pump? Any suggestions? And yeah, there is most definitely a problem with the instrument pack. The question is, what's the problem and how can I fix it?

 

Well, either get a schematic, a test meter and learn how to trace an electical circuit, find someone who DOES know how, or call the junkyard! I suggest the first option!

 

Are there any links to said schematics? I'm just trying to get my car started and I could use a little bit of actual help. Anything...

 

Kenny- Again, what test point meant is that you are out of luck to try banging on the pump on your X-308 since the pump is inside the tank. I assure you that, unlike me, test point is not (normally) a smart ***!

The first "sticky" on the X-308 forum page is the JTIS service manuals. Schematics are there. I will attach a pdf of the page for the fuel pump circuit. Do you have a 12 volt test light? A DVM?. I like the test lamp better for this kind of troubleshooting
Can you follow an electical schematic? I am not trying to be judgemental, only to know how much help you need going through it! Notice the area of the lower left corner and upper left corners of the schematic. That's the pump and the all important control relay. If the relay POWER leads are jumpered, you should have pressure. Be careful you get the right pins jumpered or you will crap the ecu. I think there are plenty of archives desribing how to ID the correct pins, or someone else will jump in, I'm sure.

 

Quit screwing with it: haul it to Checkered Flag or call Rob at Abacus to fix it.

 

It is possible all the warning lights on the instrament cluster is because you had the key on and tried to crank the engine. Oil light because oil pressure didn't come up. It wouldn't with just cranking the engine.
I would start with making sure the fuel pumps are getting power. If you can follow a scematic you would only need a test light or volt meter. If the voltage going to the fuel pumps is good then replace the pumps. If they are just stuck then they are probably gettiing ready to fail anyway.

 

Fuel pumps fail from sitting all the time. Fuel gets progressively more gummy as it ages, and will eventually turn to varnish. After a year (especially if you didn't add fuel stabilizer), it's getting pretty sticky, especially in a fully stagnant, small volume area like a fuel pump. This sticks the impeller in the pump unless the motor in the pump can break it free or you can help it along by tapping on it. They are not hard to replace (if it has an access panel and you don't have to drop the tank, is the 308 like this more knowledgeable people?), and not crazy expensive. $200-$400 should fix you right up.