Occasional Bulb Fail message when brakes are pushed
#1
Occasional Bulb Fail message when brakes are pushed
I replaced both of the brake light bulbs (dual filament ones) with new ones from the Dealership. Also took both of the bulb holder units out and cleaned all the contacts both on the bulbs and on the connector side. Just cant seem to shake the bulb fail message when I push the brakes. It only happens briefly and if I let of the pedal and repush it goes away. It also seems to happen more frequently at night when the lights are on.
Any ideas of where to go next with this?
Any ideas of where to go next with this?
#2
As you have ruled out the common causes, the Fail message is normally the first indication of a lower voltage in the battery.
It can be as simple as a battery not re-charging sufficient due to short trips, or its age.
If I trickle charge my battery, the message stays away for months, but I need to bring the battery up to my apartment to do so.
So if I work a lot on my car, and without a real long ride, the same happens to mine.
It can be as simple as a battery not re-charging sufficient due to short trips, or its age.
If I trickle charge my battery, the message stays away for months, but I need to bring the battery up to my apartment to do so.
So if I work a lot on my car, and without a real long ride, the same happens to mine.
The following users liked this post:
John Baker (12-29-2018)
The following users liked this post:
John Baker (01-06-2019)
#4
Does the center brake light work every time? The one on the rear package shelf. Could also be feedback from another socket on either side. Clean ALL the sockets and check the multi wire connector pins for corrosion. The large connector that plugs into the circuit board. Also make sure all the bulbs are clear, if any are slightly dark, that will raise resistance in the taillight circuit. Make sure no bulb has a brass base, all must be silver base bulbs.
Last edited by grantorino62; 12-20-2018 at 08:48 PM.
#5
Ahh OK thanks for the battery advice. I removed my battery and was trying to find a date on it but couldn't. I measured the voltage at around 12.5V but I still threw it on the charger and will see if that helps, otherwise i'll replace it. Its my understanding the voltage needs to be above 12.60 or so ?
#6
Does the center brake light work every time? The one on the rear package shelf. Could also be feedback from another socket on either side. Clean ALL the sockets and check the multi wire connector pins for corrosion. The large connector that plugs into the circuit board. Also make sure all the bulbs are clear, if any are slightly dark, that will raise resistance in the taillight circuit. Make sure no bulb has a brass base, all must be silver base bulbs.
#7
You have a failure in the Security Locking and Control Module. Couple of choices: after finding which light is failing, hot wire from the upper, center light (does not go through the SLCM); find a replacement SLCM on eBay (must match your current unit -- Google or search this forum). There are companies that will repair the SLCM, but will down the vehicle for a period. DO NOT follow RobertDIY's cross wire solution (it will burn out both lamps).
The following users liked this post:
John Baker (12-29-2018)
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#8
You have a failure in the Security Locking and Control Module. Couple of choices: after finding which light is failing, hot wire from the upper, center light (does not go through the SLCM); find a replacement SLCM on eBay (must match your current unit -- Google or search this forum). There are companies that will repair the SLCM, but will down the vehicle for a period. DO NOT follow RobertDIY's cross wire solution (it will burn out both lamps).
I ordered these as they look to be a good replacement for the current failing power switchers:
https://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail...y5qtQKPw%3d%3d
#9
Let us know how you make out with those replacements. I've been putting off mine for a while, I have one that I'm sure my initial trailer wiring screwed up. I've bypassed it, but of course I get "Check Rear Lights" on every brake pedal push. Wouldn't mind getting past that. (Though it does at least make it easy to see that my brake switch had failed and not been releasing since the message would stick)
#10
The following users liked this post:
John Baker (01-06-2019)
#12
The following users liked this post:
King Charles (12-21-2018)
#13
As you have ruled out the common causes, the Fail message is normally the first indication of a lower voltage in the battery.
It can be as simple as a battery not re-charging sufficient due to short trips, or its age.
If I trickle charge my battery, the message stays away for months, but I need to bring the battery up to my apartment to do so.
So if I work a lot on my car, and without a real long ride, the same happens to mine.
It can be as simple as a battery not re-charging sufficient due to short trips, or its age.
If I trickle charge my battery, the message stays away for months, but I need to bring the battery up to my apartment to do so.
So if I work a lot on my car, and without a real long ride, the same happens to mine.
If anyone needs their SLCM redone with these high power switches let me know. I have three of them and can even solder them in for you. Just ask that you pay the 15 dollars or so it cost me to buy them.
The following 2 users liked this post by John Baker:
CharlzO (01-24-2019),
ericjansen (12-30-2018)
#14
I had this same problem a couple of days ago, messed with the bulbs, sometimes they didn't work, then they would, then they wouldn't, I checked all all the connections, grounds, etc. cleaned everything, checked everything, was driving me crazy. I charged the battery, which took so long that I realized it must be due for replacement. I replaced the battery and no more problems.
The following 2 users liked this post by Carnival Kid:
ericjansen (12-29-2018),
Lady Penelope (12-30-2018)
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