Hi all,
My 4.0 liter X308 is in restricted performance mode. It will start and idle just fine. If you drive it easy it runs fine if you get on it, it falls flat on its face. I am trying hard to work on this myself as I currently have two with an XK8 coming soon. I digress I've checked the coil packs at idle all seem to be firing. I've changed plugs, installed a new knock sensor as the other ones wiring was brittle and fraying. What should I check next. There was a time the wife was running regular gas if that matters the tank has premium now. Any help is appreciated as Jag mechanics in my area are few.

Thanks

 

I should have mentioned the code it is throwing is P0328 sorry that might help.

 

There are two knock sensors. This thread may be helpful.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...t-1-2-a-76815/

 

Like I said I'm green on a Jags but learning from school of hard knocks. I'll ohm that side and see what I get. Hate to be a bug but do you know if that's the same part number as the other I'm betting not. Again thanks a million

 

Both the same part number! In that thread someone suggested getting XK sensors, as they are cheaper and work just fine.

Engine Sensors-V8 - Parts For XJ Series from (V)812317 to (V)F59525 (X308) | Jaguar Classic Parts UK

 

Ok I'm in the US and auto zone gas them for about 30 dollars. I'll check the XKR ones.

Thanks again

 

They should ohm out at or near 200K.

 

I thought they should ohm out at that. Guide me here please my code said bank 1 which I'm assuming is passenger side. I set my meter to 2000 ohm when I tested it read OL. I immediately removed it and when out the harness was brittle breaking rubber piping off. The new one arrived today it read the same OL what am I doing wrong. After learning of the second I tested it reading the same, removed it to see bare wire going to it so I ordered another. Why am I not getting a reading when I ohm it.

Thanks

 

You're on the 2,000 ohm scale. The brand new knock sensor should read 202,000 ohms of resistance. I have to set mine to 2,000,000 (or 2 million) ohms to test that circuit without the possibility of being over my scale and giving me false readings.

 

I couldn't sleep after you telling me I was using the meter incorrectly. I reset the meter now both are reading about 1985 or so. I am assuming they both are functioning correctly. Help again please what to check next?

Thanks

 

So after replacing the bank 1 knock sensor, are you still getting the same code coming back on?? I'm assuming you cleared the code after replacing it with a new sensor.

 

I assumed incorrectly that the code would clear when fixed. I will have to find somewhere to clear the code that's not upset b4cause I didn't get them to fix it.... In search of a code reader that will clear and program any suggestions?

Thanks

 

David, the ELM 327 seems to work, a number of forum members use them, some have bluetooth/wifi and are used alongside apps and programs on phone/tablet/pc. Have a look at Torque Pro if you want to go that route.
Readers with screens are cheap enough now - you don't need a Snap On cirrus, something like the Memoscan U581 I've been using for years on various Jags and it works a treat for pulling/clearing engine codes quickly.

 

I have not cleared the code. I assumed it would clear. Off to find someone to clear it that won't care that they didn't get paid to fix it... What would you recommend as a code reader that clears and programs Jag specific
Thanks

 

Sorry I reposted I'll check the reader you mentioned

 

I had a similar problem, ran fine around town, go to the highway and get about 60 and it would flatten out, and sputter. also got the reduced performance light. hooked my reader up and (do not remember the code off hand) the code was for a gross air leak in the EVAP.
My first go to was the purge valve under the hood/bonnet on the bulkhead, come to find out, somehow it came unplugged, but also had a hose slip off one to the connections. looked like someone had changed it before and did not use enough length of hose and had it held on with spring clamps luckily I still had some silicon vacuum hose left over from when I did my XJS. cleared the code and all is well.

 

Thanks for the number will get on order.👍

David

 

If it's fixed (that's if) then the MIL should go off after 3 warm ups. The code should harmlessly be stored for quite a while and then auto-deleted.

 

Sorry I've been in training all week. The knock sensor fixed the problem. I purchased a tool so I can clear codes so that's do. If you read the thread you undoubtedly seen where the coolant recycle tube was brittle and broke in two places when snapping it back in the engine cover. Awaiting the part now. A big thanks to all who add their thoughts and expertise. I'll slowly figure out how to work on these.

Again thanks all

 

sorry wrong thread