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So earlier today I was driving and for some dumb reason I was playing with the manual gear selector side. Everything was working perfectly (quick shifts , correct gear I selected , etc) I shifted from D to 4 it was fine then I shifted from 4-3 pretty fast in one whole motion and then heard like a small clunk under the transmission area (kinda sounded like it was outside the vehicle but couldn’t really tell with the radio on) then on the dash it said gearbox fault then switched to restricted performance and a engine light in the matter of 30 seconds. So I quickly pulled over turned off the car and waited a minute , kinda scared. I started the car and the light was still on and the car drove very uh slow and not shifting right. Once I got home (5 minutes away) I scanned the code and got p0706. I cleared it hoping it was gonna fix its self. I cleared it and started the car ,no light. I was relieved. Drove it around the block seems fine. I parked the car , scanned it again the code was still there but the engine light was still off.
I got home did some research and played around with my car. I read something about it the j-gate lights up fine , it’s ok? My j-gate lights up in P R and D red. Are those working correct. I also read something about a rotary switch on the transmission? (More detail if possible) I seen the prices on the rotary switch Arnt that expensive (less than 100$) sounds correct? If that’s the problem How would I tell what is the exact problem without spending a lot of money on parts that might / might not fix the problem. I wouldn’t mind doing all the work at home in my drive way if possible.
Also have a code for p1647 for a upstream 02 sensor ? And I believe it’s the hard to get to side (driver side US left hand) and I used the forum for info on that and I believe it’s just the sensor went bad. I searched for a replacement and there around 100$ on amazon for Bosch 15627 ? I would be replacing this in my drive way also. ( any tips would be helpful.
I also got a abs light but no code (weird?) but it was cunfusing because it would come on and then be gone the next time I drive. So I found a thread and decided maybe a cleaning of all for wheel sensors wouldn’t hurt.( pretty easy) Cleaned them and currently no abs light. Hope that problem is fixed.
I also am averaging 13.4 MPG which is HORRIBLE
I hope I gave enough info. I will love any help or suggestions. Any questions please ask. I prefer one on one help but if you find a good thread with strong DETAILS I wouldn’t mind. Links to cheaper ( but still good quality) parts would be helpful. Please help my keep my baby functioning properly And sorry for not using the forums right I’m still learning.
I think she’s upset with me. I don’t know what I did. Probably just old age. Just seems like every few weeks there’s a new problem. I try my best to keep her running perfect.
My 2001 Jaguar xj8 ~ 105,7xx miles
Last edited by youngowner; 12-01-2019 at 09:54 PM.
Reading about your "clunk" when manually shifting I think I would remove the "J"-Gate and investigate inside. Your P0706 code indicates problems with the D-4 switch, maybe a cable came dislodged, maybe the switch failed, I don't have any experience, but I think removing the J-Gate and taking a look inside for anything obvious would be my first move.
As for the ABS not available, cleaning the wheel speed sensors is a good thing, but I agree with grantorino62 in that it is more likely your ABS module that needs repair.
Thank you guys very helpful information.The "clunk" noise sounded more like outside the vehicle but i will definitely take a look inside the j-gate. Some threads said some cleaning on the inside switch/sensors wouldn't hurt. Also what type of ways could i test if it is the D-4 switch. I haven't tried using the left side (2 3 4) since the problem because the trans seems to be fine just putting that p0706 code. I've just been driving very cautiously.
And for the p1647 code i read that forum and when "test if it is the sensor or a electrical problem", Im supposed to swap the left and right sensors? Once swapped should the code automatically change to the other side or do i have to drive around or should i clear the code and drive till it comes back on to see if it changed?
The abs light hasn't came back on since i cleaned the sensors and trickle charged the battery. The module could still be the problem, ill just have to see in the future.
You may just have to drive her a bit at speed (55+ for about 10 minutes, process may need repeating), after clearing code, ....this to clear the sensor function in the ECU. Take a ride on 90 for a bit, I grew up south of Buffalo in PA. The battery is quite important to keep it maintained at operating level above 12.5v. Especially if you leave it sit for more than 10 days and/or depending on the age/condition of your battery. I use a Battery Tender religiously and my DieHard is over 10 yrs old now,...no issues.
Check your trans fluid level, the noise I recently experienced during a 2-3 shift, was the fluid being a pint low....no code given. My low end power has returned, even with the Sport mode on I pulled an 11 for a bit until the Michelin's grabbed. Found my pan bolts were loose, tightened, cleaned and topped off.
When I switched the sensors and cleared the code right after the code immediately switched to p1646 so I went to check all the sensors were plugged correctly, they were. I believe. So I cruised around 60 for about 12 minutes and the code is p1646 still was there so I assume it’s the actual sensor it’s self that’s broken and needs to be replaced. So after ordering the sensor (I have it in my hand) (I ordered a Bosch15627 oxygen sensor off amazon for 93$+tax) I’ve been help up to replace the sensor and Monday this week I started the car and it was driving horrible. The engine light was already on so I rescanned the car and there was another code. great .
It’s p0175 code. I looked it up and it says that bank 2 is fueling too rich. And the car drove really sluggish or felt really low on power. I know the sensor is not reading correctly and just wondering if this new code is from the bad sensor or do I have a new problem on top of the sensor. And bank 2 is the side where my oxygen sensor is already bad and now the same
bank is fueling rich ~ to much fuel not enough air. I will get the new sensor in ASAP now and hoping rebalances itself and fixes the p0175 code. And stop driving the vehicle until then.
One thing I don’t get if it was a fueling problem or a MAFS problem shouldn’t both codes for both banks pop up ? Meaning a p0172 (bank 1 fueling rich)? So my guess it’s the bad 02 sensor effects.?
Any ideas or suggestions or things to check always help. Thanks for staying tuned
Replaced the sensor from above (under hood). Removing the overflow tank and lots of coolant hoses. I finally reached the heat shield. Out she went and Walla the bad sensor. The bad sensor came out not to bad. I matched up both old and new sensors look identical. So i installed it and plugged back in the wiring. Put all the coolant hoses back together and topped off my coolant. The code was still there?? I cleared the code then went back to check all the wiring was correctly connected and in place. (I also reset my trip to see if my mpg was better)
So maybe I thought I should drive a little and see how she drives. First day back on the road and together she drove amazing! Not sluggish and full power back. Few days go bye and my mpg which was reset is still reading around 13.X mpg. Horrible! I do do city driving but also high way driving probably I drive 60%city/40%highway driving.
The car runs fine no problems, no hesitation, nothing. Just the gas? And no codes have came up YET! But I haven’t drove her that much since.
I was thinking maybe I have to do a hard reset to get the computer to read the new sensor ? I read that you take both the negative and positive cables off the batter and touch them together for like 10 minutes?
Also I should probably drive 55mph + for 10 minutes again ? To do a cycle ? Probably will try that tomorrow.
Gonna do some other maintenance in the meantime like new spark plugs and oil change + oil filter. Maybe that will help some mpg return.
I have lots of pictures of the 02 sensor replacement if wanted !
Update if anyone still active here. ..... I was thinking maybe I have to do a hard reset to get the computer to read the new sensor ? I read that you take both the negative and positive cables off the batter and touch them together for like 10 minutes? .....
Updates are ALWAYS appreciated. Too often an issue is posted, solutions are suggested by members but we never hear what worked, what didn't or the end of the story.
A hard reset won't do any harm and could help - it resets fuel trims etc to default and so gets rid of "learned adaptions". Be aware that you will lose window travel limit settings and (possibly) radio presets. The safest way to do a hard reset is be disconnecting both battery cables and touching them together for twenty seconds or more to discharge the capacitors.
12-01-2019, 09:40 PM
Some help again sorry
How would I tell what is the exact problem without spending a lot of money on parts that might / might not fix the problem. I wouldn’t mind doing all the work at home in my drive way if possible.
And sorry for not using the forums right I’m still learning.
