Multiple packages from Rock Auto have arrived so I'm starting repairs this weekend.

Splice rodent cut wires to knock sensor (pic posted previously)

Upstream 02 sensor. Plan on first switching leads to see if code switches to other side.

Front shocks - looks easy

Rear shocks - looks hard

Rotors and pads all around

Trunk struts

Diff has leak at passenger side output shaft. Not dripping on ground, but wet. Plan on draining and refilling diff and watching.

Driver's seat won't move back and forth. Stuck in almost full forward position. When switch pressed, I do hear a click. Advice on this appreciated.

Steering wheel moves up and down, put does not telescope. Like the driver's seat, I hear a click when switch engaged. Advice on this appreciated.

Back part of interior sunroof not visible. Think pushed back into roof. Advice on this appreciated.

 

All easy tasks, except: rear shocks are a royal PIA! I found a good independent to do that job. He was so good (Abacus Racing Virginia Beach), I had them do the O2 sensor on the left side (skin on knuckles still useful to retain). Rotors and pads are a piece of cake: bring a big hammer to drive the rotors off. There is a very good thread on telescoping steering wheel in which Bob Goff explains what you need to do -- I left mine alone, too hard (knuckles, supra).

 

I forget the exact procedure, but there's a trick to getting the rear shocks out without having to drop the rear subframe or undo the axle nuts, worry about spring compressors, etc. I think it goes something like this:

-Get the rear of the car off the ground (put jackstands under the jacking point square tubes)
-Remove caliper from rear hub (maybe, for clearance reasons?)
-Undo rear sway bar links if you have one
-loosen upper spring pan bolts
-Get your jack under the side which you're removing the shock on, jack up just enough to start compressing the spring
-undo the lower shock mount bolt completely
-slowly lower jack until spring is completely decompressed
-remove upper spring pan bolts
-continue lowering until you have enough clearance to tilt the spring/upper pan/shock assembly out
---^this step may involve rotating the axle to the best angle to allow for the most downward extension of the suspension, I think putting the UJ at ~45deg to the pivot axis was the best result

May be forgetting a few details but that's the gist of it. Replace your upper spring foam donuts if you're going to all this effort (MMD3565AA). As well as the two smaller shock foam bushings if your shock doesn't come with them. Bilsteins come with all needed shock bushing parts (not the big donut), others may not.

 

nilanium here is the post I found with the procedure.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...-243275/page2/

 

I've changed rear shocks on 4 XJ8s using the shop manual procedure and two HD spring clamps. It's not that tough just go slow like you are handling nitro. I had to use a small bottle jack to compress the lower part of the shock enough to clear the opening it fits into. Upon reinstalling I used a ton of zip ties to hold the top plate to the spring while I compressed the shock and inserted a small socket extension to keep it all compressed as one unit. Once repositioned I slowly decompressed the spring about halfway and removed the socket extension decompressing the shock. With the pressure off the shock I cut and removed the zip ties. From there I made sure the top plate lined up with the bolt holes and decompressed the spring completely. Then I reinserted the shock plate bolts and then compressed the shock slightly with the bottle jack to line it up with the lower bolt. Be sure to mark the position of the lower bolt holding the hub on when removing and installing.

It may sound a little wonky but I've never had an issue as long as I didn't jerk anything around and remembered I'm handling a ball of potential energy.