Any tips on filling and bleeding a completely empty brake system? My XJR transplant into a Mark 2 includes the master and ABS pump so everything is dry including new lines and calipers. I was told that pulling a vacuum or using a pressure system can damage the ABS pump, and that jumping the pump to fill the system is the way to go. Threads I've reviewed here address bleeding air but not filling an empty system. Thanks for any thoughts.

 

Never having to do it to a jag, the best I can offer, is the experience on a ford Granada(UK spec) with ABS.


It was a badly crashed car that needed a new bodyshell, so it was original parts, that had been taken out of the old shell, that spent a few weeks on a shelf, when refitted, we filled the master cylinder with fluid, opened up ALL the bleed nipples turned on the ignition, and added fluid as it went down, with all 4 bleed nipples open.


Having said that, it was up on a 4 point body lift with 5 people involved.


1. topping up the master cylinder
2. 4 people at the bleed nipples waiting for fluid to come through, when it did, lock off that nipple, when it went to the next, lock that off, etc...


Then bleed out as per a normal master/ slave cylinder replacement.

 

Should be the same as replacing a master cylinder: fill the master, pump to send fluid to wheels , keep filling until system is full; pump gently until no bubbles. Then bleed each wheel and ABS as normally done.

 

Me personally, I would not jump the pump. I would gravity bleed one caliper at a time and then have someone push down the brake pedal while opening the bleeder valve method. Nice conversion btw.

 

Doug,


That looks like a pretty cool cat!
Hopefully you'll be posting some sort of a photo essay so we can drool over it.
I picked up a pressure bleeder for the brakes on my old E39 beemer. It pressurizes the MC and you just have to make sure the reservoir doesn't run dry. Open the bleeders and let the pressure do the work. As near as I can tell the ABS components look the same as the 540i. I even had the same ABS/ Trac control messages due to poor solder joints in the control module. I'd need to check my receipts to see where I got the pressure bleeder but I remember seeing all sorts of options, even on amazon. Good luck with the brake system filling (& bleeding).


Doug

 

Thanks everyone for the feedback. I usually get some consensus here but we're all over the map on this one. I need to pick up some bits from the dealer tomorrow and will ask what procedure they use when changing a MC or ABS pump. Will report back what I learn.

 

In the MC and ABS sections of JTIS, they refer the reader back to the
generic pump the pedal bleed procedure. No special callout for MC or
ABS replacement.

I am partial to gravity bleeds. Orangeblossom had a problem with ABS
on his XJS. Nothing worked until he tried the gravity bleed as I suggested.

The best version:

hose and bottle with a magnet.

attach hose to bleed nipple such that the hose leads upwards from the nipple
before heading down to bottle. keep bottle bottom above or at level of the
bleed nipple. this forces a column of brake fluid to be maintained above the
nipple. the magnet is for easy attachment of the bottle to the shock or anything
else handy. just tape a magnet to a plastic bottle.

fill reservoir, and keep it full.

open bleed nipple and let fluid flow until bubble free.

if you continue to have a problem, close all nipples. prop a brick
against the brake pedal overnight. repeat gravity bleed.

 

While I've never worked on an empty system, I have changed the fluid a few times on my cars including a hose change . I used the eezibleed kit, coupled to a foot pump at lowish pressure (20psi or so), always worked and very easy one man job.....

 

I spoke with the service manager and one of the mechanics at the local Jag dealer about bleeding an empty system. They use a pressure system (2 bar or about 30 psi), said the pump would probably have to be activated to remove all of the air from the pump, and that the process sometimes has to be repeated 2 or 3 times. They also said there was no danger of damage to the pump by using a pressure or vacuum system. I'm thinking I'll start with the pressure bleeder and finish with the gravity bleed. Thanks again everyone for your input.