There are probably more than a few of you out there that have read my post on chain and tensioner replacement and subsequent no start condition.
I'm on my way back in to redo the entire process. It's been long enough and if for no other reason I need to satisfy myself that all is correct.
My question is can the crank lock, the one supplied with the cam locking tool set, be used to unbolt the crank pulley but. The bolt is new and was only installed about one month ago.
The first time through I used a 4x4 wooden block and a flat end pry bar to engage the ring gear and thereby lock the crank.
It's a two man job and I don't have that extra hand now.
Thought I'd better check as I firmly believe, " First do no harm".
2000 XJ8 with 140k
I love this car and I'm not gonna give up. I know y'all will understand. Mahalo

 

Page 3 of the TSB 303-05 Crankshaft Damper – Loose – Repair Procedure

"CAUTION: Under no circumstances should JD 216, crankshaft locking
peg, be used to lock the crankshaft during any operation to tighten or
loosen the crankshaft center bolt."

ALSO, Please download and read my copy of the Student Guide Engine Repair Coarse 168.

bob

 

 

Thanks Highhorse. That's pretty unambiguous and I really appreciate the quick response.
In your opinion was the method I employed initially without risk i.e.
2 man, wood block and flat bar engaging the ring gear?

 

I locked mine down with a #4 flat blade driver (sorry motorcarman), and did my whole procedure myself. I used my jack to put some pressure on the handle it to keep it in place. As long as you felt under the snout of the crank after pulling the damper for the key, that should had been at 6, and it stayed there throughout the process, and you had your lock downs on the cams, you shouldn't have had an issue.
You should only have to pull the valve covers (probably pull the plugs to make rotation easier by hand) and bring the crank around to see if your cams flats flush out.
I would also go over the procedure that motorcarman has suggested, just to be sure you followed all the procedures correctly.
This is off an XJ6, but the key slot is what I'm referring to. I don't know if you can see it with a mirror to check its position. I'm sure you'll at least have to pull the bolt to get the washer out of the way. But it beats pulling the radiator if it does work. Also, have you checked your crank positioning sensor?

 

As I recall the pulley has no key nor is there a keyway on the exposed crank. Just a split tapered bushing to lock it in place once the bolt was torqued to specs.
At this point B bank cam flats align cleanly where as A bank are slightly out of sync.
Cam covers are obviously off and the timing cover unbolted, hood off, fans removed,crank positioning sensor removed, ready to remove crank pulley.
My plan is to remove all timing chain components and make certain crank forward sprocket is offset from inner sprocket and carefully reassemble.
I also plan on locking down B bank cams as the flats are in sync, and then installing 2nd cam locking tool just snug on A bank, loosen cam sprockets so exhaust can flat syncs with the intake cam flat and re-torque.

 

Dunno why the locking tool shouldn't do it. I've done 7 cars with the locking tool to undo and do up the center screw of the pulley... Not once a problem.

 

If your cam flats aren't synced, you'll definitely have issues (misfire, poor acceleration, etc...). When I swapped my chain and gear cogs, I pulled them off as one.....zip tying the top cog and holding the lower as I pulled it off and laid it down taught. I then lay the new chain down next to it and swapped over the cogs, being as precise as possible to match them and rezipped the top cog for reinstall.
I apologize regarding the balancer key, you are correct regarding the tapered bushing. The key is on the inner part of the snout for the lower cog timing alignment. The lower cog should definitely be keyed and pointing at 6.

 

The locking peg in place of the CKPS is for TIMING ONLY, not to hold the crank for damper removal.

I will retell the story of a Jaguar mechanic that worked a few bays down from me years ago at the dealer.

He used the peg to hold the crank. When he was done with the engine repair he used the peg again to hold the crank for damper install.

The engine RAN LIKE ****!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
There were misfire codes and CMPS/CKPS relationship fault codes.

He spent 2 days trying to figure out why the engine would not run properly.

Several of us went over to help and I suggested he used the timing peg to hold the torque converter drive plate and bent a timing segment. He denied using the tool to hold the crank.

He finally removed the gearbox and discovered the timing segment was BENT!!!!!!!!
The position sensor was attempting to count the spaces and the distorted timing segment was disrupting the pattern.

He went to the parts dept and was told that a new Torque Converter Drive Plate was $800.00. He almost cried!!!!!!!!!!!!!! There goes this weeks PAYCHECK!!!!!!!!!!!!!

One of my buddies had a good used plate (AJ27) from a salvage yard engine install so he offered it to the guy.

He learned a valuable lesson.
Page 3 of the TSB 303-05 Crankshaft Damper – Loose – Repair Procedure

"CAUTION: Under no circumstances should JD 216, crankshaft locking
peg, be used to lock the crankshaft during any operation to tighten or
loosen the crankshaft center bolt."

You need to jam a large prybar into the torque converter area or use the damper holding special tool but don't use the timing peg to hold the crank for the damper bolt.

It's your car, you can do whatever you want to it, BUT if you bend the timing segment enough to disturb the sensor input, you WILL be removing the gearbox for access to your mistake!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

bob

 

Is it possible the crank locking tool would fit with the flex plate in the wrong position. I was never able to find that little triangle proof mark that's been talked about looking through the hole in front of the cps.
Still not sure I understand the firing order or which cylinder is number one as illustration shows
4 4
3 3
2 2
1 1
I'm sure I'm missing something and I can't begin to express my gratitude for the help I received here. A truely great community.

 

ONLY the AJ26 has the triangle mark near the rounded timing segment that the locking peg fits in.
The crank lock peg tool will NOT fit into ANY OTHER timing segment.
There are TWO different lock tools. One for the AJ26/AJ27 and the other one is for the AJ28 engine. They are NOT interchangeable!!

When the cams are timed correctly, the torque converter drive plate timing hole will be VERY CLOSE to lining up with the CKPS mount hole. Install the peg tool into the CKPS hole and move the crank back and forth while pressing the tool. It should fall into place and now the crank is at the correct 45 degrees after TDC. The timing segment has a rounded top and bottom, ALL the others have a flat top and bottom.

Now the timing chains can be removed/installed and the crank will stay locked/timed.

bob

 

 

Thanks Bob, the picture of the flywheel and the reason you noted that mine had no triangle bench mark all seemed to make sense and I appreciate that.
I plan on doing a cylinder leak down test in an attempt to judge valve condition, and then go ahead and remove timing cover to inspect and retime.
Thanks again, I'll chime in once I get the opportunity to reassemble and test.

Joe