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I found the ones on the front of mine got obliterated real quick- turns out the dampers were partway seized up and that was destroying the yellow foam rubber. It was jamming up on bound and chewed up the underside of the mount. Clonk clonk.
Phil
I've had a clonk since I got the car, it's just always had more urgent things to sort to keep it on the road.
I've had a clonk since I got the car, it's just always had more urgent things to sort to keep it on the road.
Those are a 30 minute job to replace if the damper top nuts aren't seized.
If they are then it turns into a 4 hour job to replace them and the dampers (which is fairly easy but access for tools on the lower nut and bolt can be difficult).
Red T10 base LEDs. Total power draw now 9W, down from 25.
Certainly looks acceptable. Much more red than my phone's camera will admit to.
Got it all located correctly in the back window. Works for me.
I replaced the driver's door rubber strip, the one that came with the car was loose and somebody had done a mess attaching the rubber to the door with metal wire, bolts instead of those plastic fasteners....
Otherwise the work is easier than it seems.
Now the car is free from all bullshit done by the guy who had the car between me and the first owner. I do not consider it an owner because he just did fast cheap fixes and sold the car.
Next step is either change ATF or change sagging roof liner, but not anytime soon.
Bought some slightly more dim bulbs (single red chip).
That's better. These I can always pull apart and fit a higher value resistor in series because that's the only current limiting these have; the others were really smart and had a full on buck/boost circuit, they were up to full brightness by 8.7 volts and plateaued there in wattage. They also got really hot.
