I've done some exhausting searching on the web and have a question. in the years 2002-2003, what is important to replace as preventative care, lets say with a car that has anywhere between 60K-100K miles?

I understand that 2000 and earlier (maybe some early model 2001's) had issues with the chain tensioners, water pumps, thermostat, Ignition coils. The following website talks about 2000 and earlier cars, and makes no mention about later cars in the 02-03 years being a priority. I understand they have the 2nd generation tensioner, and will that be okay?

Jaguar V8 Secondary Tensioners - Preventive Replacement

I'm looking at purchasing an '02-'03 model and just want to get an idea of the upfront costs I will be faced with right away.

How much would parts and labor cost at an independent shop? (that is, IF i need to do anything for those years)

Thanks!

 

Absent documented maintenance history, I would do a complete fluid flush (coolant, brake, engine oil, power steering fluid) with the requisite filters changed.

Inspect to ensure you have the aluminum (aluminium?) thermostat tower, replace the original (if it is plastic) with the upgraded part, as well as the thermostat and front plastic multi-outlet pipe. Might also be time (and while the engine coolant is drained) to consider the upgraded water pump (the original was problematic; the new one are a lot sturdier and not as prone to failure)

I'd throw a new set of spark plugs in (they are not that expensive, even for iridiums) and contribute to a good smooth idle.

I'd have the valve covers pulled and check Just To Make Sure that you do have the upgraded tensioner components and reinstall with OEM gaskets and plug well seals.

IRAN (Inspect/Replace As Necessary, not the country...) the hoses, especially the one under the intake from the thermostat housing to the rear of the engine, and the octopus hose at the back of the engine.

Check alignment and condition of suspension bushings, rod ends, etc, and condition of exhaust.

Other than that? If the car was well maintained, I'm thinking the first complete service (for piece of mind and to baseline what the car is for you...) is in the 1500-2000 USD range at a shop, less, obviously, if you DIY. If not...well...these aren't for the faint of heart, but, once you press on the loud pedal on the freeway and realize you're cranking some serious speed, and the stereo is playing about half the volume you're used to because the thing is so quiet and smooth...you'll forget the damage to the checkbook and smile...

Just my $.02. Others will chime in, I'm sure.

 

Bryan has it right. I would add that you need to pull the wheels and inspects the brakes (pads, lines, rotors). If you have sufficient documentation, you might skip this piece. Then tires for amount of remaining service and alignment hints.

If the wheels and brakes have not been serviced in a while, you will find it a real joy getting the wheels off due to rust and corrosion (reinstall with lubriplate).

A 2002 or 2003 should have the improved tensioners and transmission (but the build date for the car -- on the door post -- is not the same as the date the engine and transmission were built). Clearly the later and lower the mileage the less issues you should have; but there are cars out there where OCD owners have done a superb job of keeping them like new; don't pass one of them up.

 

8 or R/VDPSC?

The biggest differences are in the transmission and cooling system.

The supercharged models have a much more robust transmission with the Mercedes W5A580/722.6, where the naturally aspirated cars have a ZF 5HP24 that is known to have issues with A Drums. No matter either unit, if there isn't a change in the last 60k (my personal preference for trans fluid is 30-45k), get it done!

The supercharged models have the aluminum thermostat housing already, the n/a models really should have this upgrade. The plastics age and fail, and generally the aluminum components are more robust.

While the 2000+ have *better* tensioners than the early ones, they aren't the metal 3rd gen ones. Gen 2 still has plenty of failures. If you don't have receipts, pull a cover and find out!

 

Don't forget the basics that apply to any car : change the brake fluid, engine oil & filter, air filter, plugs, coolant, differential oil, accessory belt.

 

Thanks everyone!

I'm very OCD with my cars so I know either I will or my mechanic will go through it very fastidiously, and correct everything that needs to be. Thanks for the list, and anything else you can think of PLEASE post it and let me know.

So beyond the basics, were talking - water pump, thermostat, and possible tensioners. A couple grand to have basically a refreshed, ready to go car is worth it, IMO considering the fact the car sold for thousands more new, and still now allot of car for the money.

Cheers!

 

I understand the NA's can be upgraded and replaced with a thicker walled A drum, eliminating the transmission issue. What parts are involved and how much does this cost have done?

Additionally, what would one notice if the A drum is going bad?

Thanks

 

If you price it out with someone else doing the labor, youll actually likely be cheaper to just buy an XJR. I don't know what transmission shops charge for the ZF units, but the level of work to do a similar job on a GM RWD unit would be 1.5-2k.

 

You're probably right about that. However being as old as they are, it could still need transmission work. I've read the transmissions are not as bullet proof as the engine. The engine is what seems to last a long time, even outlast the transmissions.

Does anyone else know what it would cost to fix the naturally aspirated XJ transmission should it need it?

Thanks

 

Replaced the 5HP24 with a reman unit from Ericcson for a little under 3K installed after mine went west a few days before Christmas. Upgraded valve bodies, A drum, new clutch fiber disks, new seals, new bearings and filled with fluid, warrantee.

If you're going to keep the car for a while, it's worth having done. Minimally, because the root cause is wear in the high pressure valve in the valve body, you can get some wiggle room by just doing that before it hangs and craters the A drum. At least that's what the fellows at Ericcson (ZF authorized service shop) said.

Owning a Jag is not an exercise in value preservation...you will spend more keeping it on the road than it's worth. Just the nature of the beast. Just like owning an airplane, in many respects (been there, done that 4x). The two happiest days in your life are the day you buy it and the day you sell it...

 

bottom line, get the XJR

 

I've worked on a ZF 5HP24 (in the 5HP24A variant) a little when my coworker was rebuilding the unit on his Audi C5 A6 4.2 Quattro and needed some second hands and such(my transmission rebuild knowledge tends to be more with manual boxes and american autos; done quite a few 700R4s and 4L60/Es). Basically a motor with somewhat similar HP and TQ to a base XK8/XJ8, but in AWD variant. Parts and tools to do the job were quite a bit more expensive than they are for a Mercedes 722.6(XJR, E55, NUMEROUS other MB vehicles). Not to mention the Mercedes units just don't need the rebuilds anywhere near as often.

If you go on Mercedes forums and research how often w210 E55s are having transmission trouble, it's quite rare. They are not OMG the most reliable transmission ever, but they are definitely robust and have excellent longevity.

I currently own 2 Audi A4s with this 5HP24A transmission, they were very inexpensive cars(97 was $600 4 years ago, 98 was $1600 2 years ago) with full service histories, and if they break, I might just move on rather than go through the effort to rebuild.

 

So what's the final verdict here for the ZF5HP24's best fluid. I've researched the forum & seen fluctuating answers, looking to have mine changed this week & the filter cleaned.

 

What does your ? Have to do with this thread?

There are newer fluids since Jag first stated their choice. Do a search for replacement fluids for the HP24. Some of the synthetics seem better than original.

 

"preventative maintaince"


Already searched the forum there are different answers every thread lol.





lol

 

Laughing out loud, why not let your transmission repair guy pick the fluid, LOL?

 

Because he's not mine as in never used him. My "guy" retired earlier this year & we never had to address any transmission issues w/ previous 308s.

They don't see many of this vintage around here, so it's best to have your ducks in a row & quiz down any new mechanic.

 

That is an inside joke around here.

The faulty part in the valve body is what causes the A drum failure, so you can prevent it by replacing the valve body if it has not failed already.

And, oh yea, just buy an XJR, lol!
Vector

 

Based on my experience of two X308s - an XJ8, and an XJR, the best preventative maintenance would be to change the fuel pump(s). Both refused to go after about 1 year of ownership, with dead pump(s). Unfortunately, changing them costs about $1000.

Those are the only breakdowns I've had.

 

Thought I would add my ideas on finding a really decent XJ8. Before I found my VDP, which is what I was wanting I done a fair amount of research. If your so inclined find a copy of this book. (The Essential Buyer's Guide--Jaguar/Daimler--XJ--All models including VDP 1994 to 2003. By Peter Crespin). It was very helpful and a pretty interesting read.
Try to locate one at a Jag dealer if you can. I got lucky and found mine purchased new and traded back in at the same dealership with HISTORY.
I visit the auto websites once in awhile(auto trader,etc). just to see what's there. If at all possible make sure you get both key remotes and make sure they work along with both keys. As with previous replies there is always going to be some maintenance to do. That goes with any older classics (that's what I consider mine). I think that's what most members here feel also. Well anyway take your time, try not to get too impatient to get your Jag, and try to find a well maintained Jag.(
(Good hunting. Dave)