XJR Front Lower Shock Bushing
#1
XJR Front Lower Shock Bushing
Car has had a clunk from the left front since i bought it in August. I've been thinking wheel bearing as i thought i had some play in multiple directions, but after a closer look and really wiggling the wheel, its only vertical play and no funny noise while rotating. Shined a light behind the lower shock bushing and I can see light through it, so i suspect i may have found at least 1 source for the noise...not that there might not be others.
So i guess i need new lower bushings, or at least that one if it doesn't need to be done in pairs? I see Uro stuff readily available, is there a good alternative that wont cost $100 for an oem bit of rubber or is Uro ok in this case? Anything funky i need to know prior to diving in? Tips and tricks to make it easier or is it pretty straightforward unload suspension, unbolt, finagle old bit out, new one in, torque spec on the bolts, done?
Anything else I really ought to do while I'm there because access is easier or anything?
Thanks!
So i guess i need new lower bushings, or at least that one if it doesn't need to be done in pairs? I see Uro stuff readily available, is there a good alternative that wont cost $100 for an oem bit of rubber or is Uro ok in this case? Anything funky i need to know prior to diving in? Tips and tricks to make it easier or is it pretty straightforward unload suspension, unbolt, finagle old bit out, new one in, torque spec on the bolts, done?
Anything else I really ought to do while I'm there because access is easier or anything?
Thanks!
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Don B (11-30-2022)
#4
Depending on mileage and if you don't have cats, I'd consider just replacing the shocks. They are about $240 for the pair and even if they aren't leaking, they do degrade after so many years. I received a very pleasant improvement in ride, response, etc after doing so. Otherwise, I think uro is your only option if you don't want to pay original part pricing.
Removal and install is a bit finnicky in that you need to jack up and lower suspension to just the right level to get the shock in or out, but overall its pretty easy. Otherwise its just a standard bushing replacement.
Removal and install is a bit finnicky in that you need to jack up and lower suspension to just the right level to get the shock in or out, but overall its pretty easy. Otherwise its just a standard bushing replacement.
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Don B (11-30-2022)
#5
Without CATs might make sense to replace the shock assemblies as Quadcammer said. My old car had CATs so I opted to replace the shock bushings. Easy job with my HF press. Can't remember which bushings I used, but probably got them from RockAuto if I had to guess. I could take a look through old receipts if yuo're unable to find a part number for some reason.
Removing the front shocks is easy if I remember correctly, don't have to remove anything else and they just come out. Believe I had a jack under the arm to raise/lower until they came out. It's tight but nothing else needs to be removed.
Removing the front shocks is easy if I remember correctly, don't have to remove anything else and they just come out. Believe I had a jack under the arm to raise/lower until they came out. It's tight but nothing else needs to be removed.
#7
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#8
I replaced my car shock bushes with these:
British car parts
Shock bush loops were a bit rusty. After I removed most of the rust away. Bushes were not very tight fit anymore. Works well. But when there is again play, it will be new shocks then.
British car parts
Shock bush loops were a bit rusty. After I removed most of the rust away. Bushes were not very tight fit anymore. Works well. But when there is again play, it will be new shocks then.
#9
Thanks Quad. I was actually about halfway through typing out this very question of if its better to just do the shocks as a whole unit as they'll have the new proper bushings already pressed in. I'm closing in on 134k miles, bought it with 124k in August so I've been driving it a fair bit...its my daily.
Are the OEMS Bilsteins? Rockauto has front non-CATS (I don't fancy electronic shocks) Bilstein 24023726for $107each and I have a discount to use. Sure looks like the same thing Welsh has for $150 each.
Any torque specs on the lower mount bolt? Ditto the upper control arm bolts as it looks like that has to come off in order for the shock to get out? Or will it come out without doing that and its just the upper and lower shock mounts?
Thanks!
Edit: Ha! Serves me right for leaving this in edit mode for a couple hours. Thanks everyone for the info, seems like a couple new bilsteins are my path of least resistance forward. Any torque specs or just crank the bottom bolt down?
Are the OEMS Bilsteins? Rockauto has front non-CATS (I don't fancy electronic shocks) Bilstein 24023726for $107each and I have a discount to use. Sure looks like the same thing Welsh has for $150 each.
Any torque specs on the lower mount bolt? Ditto the upper control arm bolts as it looks like that has to come off in order for the shock to get out? Or will it come out without doing that and its just the upper and lower shock mounts?
Thanks!
Edit: Ha! Serves me right for leaving this in edit mode for a couple hours. Thanks everyone for the info, seems like a couple new bilsteins are my path of least resistance forward. Any torque specs or just crank the bottom bolt down?
Last edited by mayhem; 11-30-2022 at 10:56 AM.
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87LC2 (11-30-2022)
#11
#12
anyways the bushing is like 25 bucks you just put it on the press slap the new one in antiseize and it’s going in no matter what lol
#13
Yes they were, but the modern versions are not the same as you know. Tokico's used to be great as well, ran them on Mustangs back in the day. Not sure if anything's changed with them.
#14
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Check to see if your shocks have thin electrical harnesses connected at the top. If so, you have the CATS suspension, and if you replace the shocks with non-CATS units you will have a persistent CATS FAULT warning on your instrument cluster that cannot be cleared.
Cheers,
Don
Last edited by Don B; 11-30-2022 at 06:42 PM.
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XJRay (12-03-2022)
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