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Been searching for a dipstick kit for my ZF5HP24 transmission and I've got nothing other than the eruosport guy from way back but he's mia. Tried everything I could think of to contact him and its a dead-end.
Looks like I'm going to have to manufacture one myself so maybe ya'll can pitch in some ideas for parts and designs I could use?? Fittings, seals and whatever else I'd need. Whatever will work is a welcome entry.
Maybe we'll end up with a doable piece that anyone who wants to can make one. I can't believe diy directions or a kit is nowhere to be found. Not even a mention of this anywhere for any zf transmission anywhere. Unbelievable. Tried the BMW forums and a local manufacturer of kits for GMs I think but they couldn't help me piece together or find one and they looked into it. So we're on our own.
When I change my fluid I want to install the dipstick. Life will be better after that.
I wonder why this isn't a front and center subject??? Maybe this'll change that.
We need a dipstick because the dipsticks that designed these things aren't very good at their job. Ask TransGo, they'll tell ya!!
Many many thanks to each and every one of you for your help on this project.
After this maybe we chould design a backup hood release? Seems that too wasn't well thought out. We'll put one in a strategic place that requires moving the alternator and tuck it under the octopus hose!
So, here's one I designed for the 722.6 a few years ago, which you don't have, but this should give you something to ponder for a design. I used the Amazon ordered 722.6 measuring dipstick, it is plenty long enough to be cut down to size. The only issue would be determining your add/full measuring points from the tip. I tried using the red handle but it wouldn't fit. I even tried heating it and elongating it.
An initial suggestion would be to get a hold of a 722.6 trans tube and at least use the top half of it. This trans is used on at least 10 different vehicles (Jag, BMW, Dodge, etc), so they should be plentiful at a yard, you need to verify the models they are in.
I say at least the top half because I don't know how it lines up compared to the ZF5HP24 fill hole. I'd think some models may have tubes longer (like a van) for your scenario. Perhaps to heat the tube to get more bend to fit.
In turn for that, I'd work with something like BobRoy initiated, using the AN fitting (starting at Post #10 https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...appeal-211002/ ). Then to blend the braided hose and the 722.6 tube using a compression fitting. You want to use as much tube as you possibly can to use the cleanliness of the bend and keep the braided line as straight as possible coming off the trans to prevent a binding catch or binding point of the measuring stick upon insertion.
Now, why else would you want to use the 722.6 tube? For the O-ring seal at the top, a major need to prevent debris from getting in. I got the neoprene variety pack O-rings from harbor freight. The one that goes in the tube is OEM.
By any chance do you have links to the parts I need? Its time to build this. I've got the car ready for a fluid change and remembered this. Was busy chasing other issues.
Also, are the fill ports always so difficult to crack open? Mines been replaced with a a standard plug instead of the Allen wrench thing but I have yet to get it to let loose. Its sitting with wd40 right now. Wil try again in the morning but geez, I didn't expect it to be so tight. Kinda afraid of doing damage. Not much else I can do but keep on hitting the wrench and squirt it with more wd40. Am I missing something?
WD40 isn't a penetrate...something like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench is what you need. As for your plug, you best hope they used the proper threading or your in for a fight, a possible surprise and possible re-tap.
I listed all I recalled, it's up to you to do the leg work now.
Fair enough. I'll keep track of my path and post it incase its helpful later to others.
Right now I'm stuck trying to get the filler port opened. Even after I get that cracked open its going to be blocked by the cat. The original plug with recessed Allen wrench type has been replaced with a 9mm extruding plug which is easier to get a grip on in the best circumstances which this isn't. No room to slip a box end wrench over it and when it does crack loose it'll hit the cat before it has clearance to remove it. So I still can't check the level, top off or replace the fluid. Adding a dipstuck isn't happening right now either.
I'm left to wonder why they were in there to begin with and how did they do it. Jack up the trans or remove the cat?? Sure seems like a lot of extra work for this end result. Talk about a sealed transmission! I've got one now. Not really since its leaking which is even worse.
Jaguar.... a drinking mans car.. Sooner or later you're gonna want a drink. 😆
WD40 isn't a penetrate...something like PB Blaster or Liquid Wrench is what you need. As for your plug, you best hope they used the proper threading or your in for a fight, a possible surprise and possible re-tap.
Just gets better, the shop i went to wasn't able to crack it loose. Said I need to go to another place to have the cat/muffler moved and then they should be able to get a breaker bar on it. Whoever worked on it last took the "sealed for life" literally.
I haven't given up just yet. Seriously thinking an induction heater bolt loosener. Will try lots of soaking with PB Blaster and some more fiddling. Maybe with time it'll loosen up.
I've got to get some sealer in there to stop anymore fluid loss before it goes whacko and that could be in an hour or a year. Thought of using a cooling line but not just yet.
Ordered a couple tools that will help me get a grip. And I actually bought something just for the jag which I haven't had in 30 years...AAA Premium membership!! I can at least get towed home upto 200 miles away should she decide to put up a hissy fit. Wasnt cheap but I'm taking no chances. Odds are I'll use it. Especially if I didn't get it but right now she be driving like a dream. I dreamt I went somewhere! 😆
The car has earned the new slogan.
You ever use coolant lines for fluid fill? I'm afraid something else would break during the process.
If it goes to the muffler shop I have to do the top O2 sensor. There's a bunch more money.
Ain't never nothin.
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I'm a bit confused why this shop could not remove the CAT, this is on the passenger side correct. Here is my write up on O2 sensors, but note the access to the CAT on the passenger side. The write up is mainly about the driver side because it's a beeatch, but it's more than doable for any shop, especially the passenger side.
I'm a bit confused why this shop could not remove the CAT, this is on the passenger side correct. Here is my write up on O2 sensors, but note the access to the CAT on the passenger side. The write up is mainly about the driver side because it's a beeatch, but it's more than doable for any shop, especially the passenger side.
Cat in the way is drivers side. And it's just enough to keep me from getting a 6 point box end onto it. By the looks of it I'll be lucky to clear it when backing out the plug.
I used some CRC freeze-off on it last night and did a few taps then let it sit. Will see whats up today.
The shop that gave it a whirl isn't setup for transmissions. Only difference was he could stand and use leverage and had correct sprays. He didn't want to round off the end so gave up.
Sure hope it's not as you mentioned with wrong thread pattern. Can only pray it's only the galvantic seizure of the steel plug and aluminum housing or I'm screwed.
Haven't used my new breaker bar extension yet or the 10 inch Channel Lock locking Cresent wrench made for rounded edge syndrom. More freeze off and repeat then tranny shop?
Getting that cat out of the way looks like a job for someone equipped to do so. Looking at driverside exhaust tip makes me wonder as its not centered but offset towards middle of car. Maybe that path has been traveled which explains how they got the 3/4" bolt plug in to begin with?
All that's left to try is heat but I don't want to play around laying on my back with a propane torch hoping I don't torch the car, seals, wiring or my face. Best left to a pro.
Headed over to the link you posted and see what I learn.
Thank you for your time. The 02 sensor needs fixed or the fuel trims will never be right. It would have to be the upper $300 driverside hidden sensor or it wouldn't be a Jag.
Okay, time to get back onto my back. From there things are looking up. 😆
I wasn't sure which side that plug was on, but the instructions I provided will be what you need then and it's not that hard that's why I made the post to show such.
I'm a bit confused why this shop could not remove the CAT, this is on the passenger side correct. Here is my write up on O2 sensors, but note the access to the CAT on the passenger side. The write up is mainly about the driver side because it's a beeatch, but it's more than doable for any shop, especially the passenger side.
Had to undo the cat bracket so i could get a bit of clearance to pull the plug out.
This plug isn't the original obviously and I wasn't the one that removed it but when he saw the spring he pulled it and the other piece out as it was just sitting there.
The CRC Freeze-off and the Locking CRESENT wrench model ACL 10VS were the keys to removal.
The spring and the other piece are of unknown origin other than coming out of the Fill Port on the ZF5HP24 Transmission. The plug must be for an oil pan? Looks like a magnet in the middle but doesn't seem to be magnetic.
Found a better video showing the location plus everything else you need to know. 90 seconds in he's on it. Just watch from beginning.
I was not even close and actually as far away as I could possibly be. Geez... it's on the rear of passenger side just above the pan lip not the front drivers side. Opps
Also I didn't know that if I opened it while its cold I would have a litre of fluid pour out. I thought the opposite was true. Hit expands and cold contracts so why would I think it'd come out while its cold? Cause I don't know what I'm doing is why!!!
ZF transmission dipstick *diy*
