Hi all -


Ok, I'm stumped again.


Is there a special tool needed to remove the front lower ball joint? Normal pickle forks are too narrow to work.


The upper popped right off after a couple of whacks, but I can't get the lower after much struggling.


Thanks in advance!

 

Hi Biker1,

The lower ball joints can collect water and corrode on the tapered part of the shaft, so you might try dripping some penetrating oil around the base of the threaded part of the shaft (with the nut loosened but not removed) and letting it soak down into the taper for a while to see if it will help you break the joints free. The four hex-head screws that secure the joints to the undersides of the steering knuckle tend to also corrode and deteriorate, so you may want to find some good new replacements. Our local True Value hardware store had some nice Grade 8 screws that matched. Note that on our '93, those screws are not metric, they are SAE/Imperial 5/16-24 with a 1/2 inch head. I don't know if they will be helpful at all, but below is a link to photos I took when I replaced ours:

Welcome to Jag-lovers - Members Photo Viewing Page

Cheers,

Don

 

Don, Nice illustrations for the lower ball joint. I need to replace the upper on one side as I was notified by a tech after getting new tires. Reviewing the Haynes manual, it shows that the only tool I should need is a small gear puller to remove the upper ball joint. Does this seem adequate? How small or large? Will a 3 inch suffice?

 

Hi skertz,

Thanks for your kind words!

The photo in Haynes Chapter 10 shows a small rigid balljoint puller. I've never owned one like that, so I've used a larger two-jaw puller with adjustable jaws. However, the first thing I would try if I were only doing an upper balljoint would be to loosen the balljoint nut about 1/4 inch but not fully remove it (to prevent the steering link from violently separating from the balljoint). Then tap on the steering link around the balljoint tapered shaft to see if the taper will release. Only after trying that first would I resort to using a puller.

The balljoints are inexpensive, so my strong recommendation would be to replace all four of them now. If one has failed, the others are probably worn. You might also consider replacing the upper control arm bushings, since you'll only be a couple of steps away when you disconnect the upper balljoint(s).

Please let us know how it goes.

Cheers,

Don