This car is in good condition as far as interior and body, however when the ignition key is turned to the "on" position the starter engages and the motor starts and runs. The starter stays engaged until the key is turned to the off position and that also stops the engine. I have not driven it this way because it would have torn up the flywheel and probably the starter as well.
Next problem is the windows and sunroof. Only the back passenger window goes down. Not up, just down. I know . . .bummer Dash lights work but only when the starter is engaged. (see above) Power seats not working. Radio works. Key gets locked in the ignition slot because it will not turn all the way off. When the battery is disconnected the key comes out. Wipers not working. Horn not working. Headlamps not working. Signals not working. Ground wire to wiper fluid pump removed because it continually runs, even with the key off. ECM recently replaced as well as the catalytic converters. A couple of weeks ago I took it to a shop in Santa Barbara California with a good reputation for Jaguar repair and that is where it is now. He is backed up a couple of weeks so he should be getting to it soon. If anyone has ever had similar problems please let me know what the outcome was. My guess is that lightning hit close enough to fry some circuits on th body control module. Oh by the way . . .I'm a Newbie here and I just bought this Jag for $1200. It has 40k showing on the odometer, perfect leather and you can eat off this engine. (very clean) I'll no doubt be here on a regular basis. Thanks in advance for all input.

 

Welcome aboard comcaller, as the car is already with a Jaguar repair shop please keep us posted about what they find.

I have had non Jaguar vehicles with a faulty ignition switch that has caused similar symptoms.

Apart from your problems, sounds like a good deal, even if you have to spend a little on it.

Why not introduce yourself over in the New Member area, the Welcoming Committee would like to hear from you;-)

 

Good call Translator
Well, you got a great deal 40K is a low mileage indeed

 

Why do you mention 'lightning hit' ? In theory, it should not affect the car, because the car body provides a Faraday Cage, so no electricity should pass inside the car. Thats the theory !!

When did the car last work properly. These X300s are pretty good cars and at your mileage, not much should be going wrong, if anything.

 

Sorry, It's a 1994 not a '96 like I mentioned. I bought the car as not running and after replacing the ECM got it to run. Luckily I noticed that the starter was continually engaged before revving it or test driving it. That would have been a disaster.
You mentioned that the '96 is a really good car. Is the '94 also really good? Of course this would be your opinion and I won't hold you to any higher standard than only your opinion.
With so many electrical problems I was only guessing about the lightning. I know very little about the car's history.
Thanks, Pete

 

'94 is good too but I suppose you got an XJ40 not an X300 and I am moving this off to the proper forum
Back to the lightning , I did watch a lightning test , VW Golf or Polo starred it . It was exposed to a real one and guess what ?
After the test it all started w/o any error message on the dash

 

Thanks, Cad
Sorry I wasn't even aware that XJ40 is where I'm supposed to be, but now that I'm here maybe someone will know something. I'm a Newbie at this. That's part of the reason I'm in this forum.
Very interesting about the lightning test. I thought a faraday cage had to have windows covered as well. No? Maybe not.
Does anyone else have remarks on my '94 XJ40 as far as overall good or bad?

 

I have a 93 that had similar problems. On 93 and 94 xj6 there is a rust problem on the top of the cowl,just above the fuse boxes.moisture goes down into them and corodes the printed circuit boards inside. You can test them with a volt meter and every thing checks out, but there is no amperage getting thru thus a lot of the electrics dont work. the unit on the right(passenger side ) was worse and most of what you posted problems are run from that fuse box.To see if you have a rust problem you will have to take the panel that the windshield washers up and look at where the ends are (thats where my car was corroded).Also the air conditioner drains plog and send moisture into the same area. I went to a pulla part junk yard and got both sides cheap and they work fine (three of the cars there had the same rust problem so if you need them inspect the car they are coming from).Other than that rust on the cowl my car has no rust at all)Good luck on your car,these are addicting once you have one you wont buy another brand.

 

This car has no rust at all. The body and interior are in perfect condition. I know . . . I know . . . a 16 year old car. (1994) She was repainted once with the same color. Looks to be a good paint job. Maybe the AC got plugged though. I'll have my shop look into it.
Am I allowed to say the name of the shop here?

 

I am not sure if the moisture caused my problem or if the printed circuit boards in the fuse boxes are bad. Have the place that is fixing you car look at the fuse boxes(un screw them from the body, seperate the snap connectors from the fuse box but leave the hot wire feed attached, then check the amperage coming out of the pins on the back side) .When looking at a haynes manual the colors are correct colors,in the jag manuals the colors are coded i believe brown is n,blue is u (if you have an old clymer motorcycle manual for bsa,triumph,or norton they will have the codes that match the jag manual).With the original fuse boxes i checked with a volt meter and got 12 plus volts , but there wasnt enough amps tho light the test light bulb,so if you get 12 volts with a volt meter check with a test light or ampere guage.good luck on your repairs Lumppy

 

Hey, I am locking this thread since you posted a new one
Thanks