I have read all the other posts I could find on inoperative door locks and tried all the remedies. My door locks quit working so I immediately pulled out and inspected the module since this happened 3 years ago and I disconnected the module, then reconnected it and the locks worked again. This time I opened the module and found evidence of overheating on one of the components and the corresponding connector so I obtained another used module but no luck. I tried a second and then a third module but none worked. I have disconnected the driver's side door lock actuator and then the passenger's side actuator but no luck. The only lock that works is the fuel flap. Any ideas for more trials will be appreciated.

 

I wish I had a quick fix for you, but I don't. I know one thing though, I find it hard to believe all those modules are bad. You do need to verify power going to the module though. Read this thread completely, you may find something in it that can assist you along.

 

We're thinking along the same lines for I have checked power into the module. I even found another CPU and tried that. Could one of the rear door actuators be the problem?

 

Yes, they could be the problem. How's it going?

 

Looking at the wiring diagram this is not a complicated system. The module does not fail often and I have tried three of them so that cannot be the problem. All six of the actuators are fed by the same two wires so if one of the actuators works (the fuel filler door lock works) they all should work, right? I tried disconnecting the boot lock actuator but that did nothing. I have not disconnected the rear door lock actuators yet but I still don't see how one of them could be the problem. Are there any door lock gurus out there? I would love to hear from one of them.

 

hello, quick question, i removd the door pannel to replace the factory blown speakers, which are infact 6.5's 100% (set-aside various websites call for 5.25) ive disconected the control switch pul and all the other preperials whilst waiting for the speakers to arive.

Now heres the problem, forgive me for being dumb as the doors seem to be unlocking from the switch on the dash and the key phob. but the drivers side internal latch wont let me out the car.

Its strane because it was working with the pannel off then it just quit?.

ive checked the cable to the actuator and it seems intact, befor i start digging in, is this just because i have the door pannel off and the preperials to the switchs removed?

Any help plz.

 

Back to door lock actuators I read in another thread where when he grounded either the purple/pink or the purple/orange wires in the door lock system that caused the actuators to work. If this is true then the actuators can be checked in this manner. Anybody comment?

 

I have a 1993 XJS conv. The passenger door will not open with key or handle. What is solution?

 

My newly acquired Daimler 1989:

The central locking was not working; the trunk lock was not firmly screwed and thus locking was not functionning; I firmly screwed this lock and then the central was working as expected.
I did not look at the electrical diagram but the above seems to state that all locks are wired in series (not parallel) - probably a choice from Jaguar developpers - ; thus when one lock fails to lock the others fails also.
Hope it helps some of us.
Cheers

 

Okay here's a quick one for you my door locks didn't work then they did work now they don't work again any help would be nice on that one

 

Hi thumper, there's got to be more to this story. Have you done anything to the car, especially electric related? Has the battery been drained and recharged ? I'd be looking for a loose connection especially if I was tinkering in a certain area. Good luck

 

when I first got the car and had a bad fuel pump I replace the fuel pump got the car running the power door locks didn't work so I checked everything I could write down electrical wires to see if anything was wrong then all of a sudden a couple of days ago the door lock started working for like a half hour then they stopped working again I checked the car yesterday and the door locks worked I checked it last night and then again so I have no clue this car is making me pull out here that I don't have anymore

 

Also I only have one key for the car I do not have the door remote if that is any help at all

 

This is also the same car I'm having the dreaded transmission limp mode with

 

This helps a lot because it tells us you are not attempting to use the remote to lock and unlock the doors, so you must be using the key in the driver's door lock? Have you tried the passenger's door lock? If it works, then suspect the switch in the driver's key lock barrel. If the passenger's door lock also does not work, suspect a problem with the Central Microprocessor (CPU). Water ingress into the CPU is well known and often caused by clogged drains allowing water to pool under the A/C evaporator and then to slosh over onto the CPU while cornering. Since you believe your TCM has suffered water damage, odds are good that your CPU has also.

You may also want to check the power ground referenced by the CPU, as well as the logic ground referenced by the CPU, the door lock module and the door lock switches. Unfortunately these grounds connect to studs on the firewall/bulkhead behind the blower motor housing, so a number of items have to be removed or displaced in order to access them, starting with the glove box.

Cheers,

Don

 

The doors do lock with the key.and again the locks are working again.puzzle me.

 

Is there a door lock relay and if there is where is it and which one?

 

Hi Thumprr1226,

You can download the Electrical Guide for your car at the link below. It will answer many of your questions.

Jaguar XJ40 Electrical Guide 1991

Cheers,

Don

 

Thanks for the Electrical Guide pdf, very useful.