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Well as anyone knows who's been following my a/c compressor thread, I finally diagnosed the noise as a failing (slipping) harmonic balancer.
I've often suggested to folks with this problem that it is rumored that superglue can sometimes repair the balancer.
This is true. I have just repaired mine. Over the last day, I gave the balancer seam three tubes of dollar-store (thin) superglue, spacing the applications 6-10 hours apart and going for short drives in between to re-orient the top of the pulley.
After the last application, I left the car overnight. The balancer is now re-bonded. I don't know if it will last, but at the moment the car is repaired. I've been for a drive that included a few standing starts (stop lights), hill starts and some fairly quick highway driving. I haven't been stomping on the gas, trying to give the bond a chance.
Today, it seems perfectly fine, but to be even more sure I just gave it a fourth tube of superglue as the car won't be used for about 24 hours. That should allow it to fully cure if it hasn't done so already.
ps I have another balancer on order just in case the repair doesn't last - but at this point, I'm thinking the superglued one on the car might be ok.
I should add that the type of harmonic balancer or crank damper repair I performed (superglue) only works in certain failures - In my case, the bond between the 5-ribbed pulley and the rubber bonding had failed, causing pulley rotation to slip/stop from time to time producing the accompanying noise. Luckily, that is the most common failure XJ40 owners encounter.
Even though this pulley has an important function, i.e. driving the water pump and alternator, it isn't performing the ACTUAL balancing of the crankshaft. The crank balancer (counter weighted to suit the crankshaft) is located in front of the 5-ribbed pulley, attached to the crankshaft and held in correct (factory balanced) position by a woodruff key.
On the other hand, a damper or balancer failure such as shearing of the key allows the damper counterweight to rotate or wobble and CANNOT be repaired. This condition should be attended to as soon as possible (replacement) as it can put enormous strain on the crankshaft and even cause the crankshaft to snap.
Basically, the superglue simply re-bonded the rubber insert to the pulley/counterweight and had negligible effect on crankshaft balance.
The replacement HB from England (mailed on Wednesday) was delivered to my door this morning (Friday) by the postie.
Today I'll be picking up and borrowing some tools to theoretically do the job next week - can't depend on that supeglue forever, y'know!
Very pleased with the HB, the fellow who sent it even took the time to thoroughly clean it and give it a fresh coat of paint, so instead of unpacking an oily mess, I got a nice clean surprise!
My costs on the replacement - $188 USD delivered, so not too bad.
Yes, well I need the car every day, so could not afford to have the car off the road for the best part of 3 weeks, so had to go with a bolt-on.
Plus, as I park on the street, I couldn't do the job there. I work at a friend's place and I'd be doing the job in their driveway - fine for a 1-day turnaround, but unrealistic for the 3 weeks turnaround it would take shipping it out from Canada. And then there's the cost of shipping. A 20lb box 12" square to Oregon from my place would be $40 ground, $68 air or $214 express,
I believe the damper doctor charges $170 for the rebuild and with each-way shipping, well, not sure but guessing somewhere's around $250. However it wasn't the cash that made me go the used route, it was the hassle and time off the road that I couldn't afford - this is my only vehicle.
The used balancer is in good shape, cost me $120 plus $68 shipping, but came overnight from the UK. I'm ok with that.
Tool worked perfectly, used the bump-starter method to remove the bolt ...was slightly apprehensive after reading a thread on the X300 forum, but it's not scary at all with 3/4" drive breaker bar and an impact socket..a bit anti-climactic if anything!
Nice job. Very informative write-up. Now if I could only get a few of the members such as yourself to buy a '90-'92 Toronado and build a reserve of repair experience and knowledge, I'd be all set.
Yes Ren, this forum is great - I'd have been lost when I first got my 40 without all the advice from the members on here.
I remember my first winter with no blowers having to drive at breakneck speeds to get some warmth happening - seems like ages ago and of course I was clueless.
The forum helped me to keep the old crate going over the years and of course able to use her as a daily driver.
Good luck with your "1-3/4 ton watch" (1969 ad line for the 442)
Thats a very ingenious tool Larry. Ill need to save that pic for my future
Funny story 'bout that tool Jerry, bought the steel bar and couldn't find my hacksaw ..remembered seeing a ''toy'" hacksaw (you know, the kind with a blade and plastic handle at one end) at the dollar store, $1.00 including 2 blades ...surprisingly, the blade was pretty good and ate through the bar pretty quickly ...
when in need ...
and here's a better pic to save ..
holes in balancer are 5/16" coarse thread, used hardened bolts
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; Aug 14, 2019 at 08:58 PM.
Never thought to use superglue when mine failed. I ended up getting it rebuilt and while less than $188 I caught the guy on his 3 week break so it took almost a month round trip to get mine back.
22" x 22" 1/2" plywood board to protect radiator.
1-5/16" 3/4" drive impact socket.
3/4" breaker bar.
Slotted puller with shortened centre bolt, 2 puller bolts 5/16"-18, quantity of washers to fit
Installation:
Install bolt 3/4" thread SAE 16tpi. - 1/2" drive socket to fit head
stack of washers plus 2" washer
Locking bar or service tool
1/2" drive torque wrench capable of 150 ft lbs
1/2" to 3/4" drive converter for torque wrench
Torque spec is 135-165 ft-lbs
Larry
Last edited by Lawrence; Aug 17, 2019 at 01:45 PM.
Harmonic Balancer Issue
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