XJ40 ( XJ81 ) 1986 - 1994

ignition coil wiring

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 23, 2012 | 01:52 PM
  #1  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default ignition coil wiring

92 xj6 sovereign with 94k

I need the wiring for the ignition coil. The old one was removed and I have a new one to replace it.

I have attached several pictures for reference. I believe I have the negative side wired correctly based on the diagrams on the forum/haynes manual but just want to make sure about the positive side which has two wires.

There are two black wires that I need specific help with: one is coming from the same harness at the wire that is already on the positive terminal (pic 1) and the other wire is coming from a capacitor? mounted to the frame just below the coil (pic 3). Does one of these go to the positive terminal the other get screwed to the frame with a mounting bolt for the coil?

Separately, there is a hard line with a flare fitting in pic 2 that is just hanging there... Any thoughts on what this is and where it goes?

thanks
 
Attached Thumbnails ignition coil wiring-jag1.jpg   ignition coil wiring-jag2.jpg   ignition coil wiring-jag3.jpg  
Reply
Old Dec 11, 2012 | 10:53 AM
  #2  
mrtalkradio's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 863
Likes: 106
From: New Hampshire
Default

Originally Posted by dtrain
Does one of these go to the positive terminal the other get screwed to the frame
Yes.
 
Reply
Old Dec 12, 2012 | 03:54 PM
  #3  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

Thanks. I did get the coil wired but still don't know what the hard line is for in the previous picture. Any thoughts?

In addition, the car still runs rough. I'm going to recheck the vacuum hoses and do a compression test.
 
Reply
Old Dec 14, 2012 | 05:42 PM
  #4  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default compression test

Did a compression test today.

Engine was cold (did not want it to run it any longer than I had to). Compression readings are as follows:

188 - 188 - 189 - 0 - 0 - 187

I'm hoping that it's a head gasket. Haynes Manual says to put some oil in the plug holes and retest. If the compression is higher, it says the piston rings are worn. Otherwise it's likely a valve or head gasket issue.

My thoughts were head gasket since the two cylinders with no compression are next to each other.

Any thoughts?
 
Reply
Old Dec 16, 2012 | 05:24 AM
  #5  
mrtalkradio's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 863
Likes: 106
From: New Hampshire
Default

0? Unfortunately the only way you will truly know is to take the head off. Get crackin!
 
Reply
Old Dec 17, 2012 | 05:46 AM
  #6  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

I hear you... I'll probably tackle it over the holidays. While I have the head off, should I be doing anything else? I'm thinking about:

1. doing or having the valves done
2. timing chain/tensioner
3. new shims

I've already looked over the gasket kit (manifolds, head, valve cover, etc.) and new bolts for the head - I've seen some conflicting views on whether they need to be replaced but I thought I'd be safe.

Not sure what specialty tools would be necessary. I found in the past that sometimes they are nearly the cost of the local machine shop that would do the job for you...

I searched for a write up on the valve job but didn't find one - only references to a manual (I have the Haynes manual). If there is one, I would appreciate someone sending it my way.

thanks
 
Reply
Old Dec 17, 2012 | 02:36 PM
  #7  
mrtalkradio's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 863
Likes: 106
From: New Hampshire
Default

Originally Posted by dtrain
I hear you... I'll probably tackle it over the holidays. While I have the head off, should I be doing anything else? I'm thinking about:

1. doing or having the valves done
2. timing chain/tensioner
3. new shims
Everything depends on your budget. I'm one who doesn't fix it if it's not broken. Your issue may be just a head gasket. Again, you'll know more once you get that head off. I did the job without any specialty tools, except whiteout, to make reference marks. The head is heavy and cumbersome, you may need assistance there. I reused the headbolts and valve cover gasket. I have 3 jags that all need attention, so they all get the equal amount of love, if they don't need it, they ain't gettin it.

Good tools are a must. Depending on what brand you like, get the best you can afford. Like breaker bars, don't skimp on those. Get plenty of penetrating lubricant. Soak those exhaust manifold bolts at least a day before you start the job. Removing the timing cover chain is tricky, take your time, take lots of pictures or video, so you can review your work. Time has a way of creeping in, and what was fresh in our memory today is foggy tomorrow.
 
Reply
Old Jan 12, 2013 | 05:17 PM
  #8  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

Got the head pulled. The head gasket appears to be the problem. See the attached photos.
 
Attached Thumbnails ignition coil wiring-head-gasket.jpg   ignition coil wiring-head-gasket-block.jpg  
Reply
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:15 PM
  #9  
mrtalkradio's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Aug 2010
Posts: 863
Likes: 106
From: New Hampshire
Default

Excellent job my man! You found it. Keep us posted on your progress.
 
Reply
Old Jan 17, 2013 | 06:24 PM
  #10  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

Thanks - I dropped it off at a local shop that specializes in British cars. They are going to clean it, inspect it and change the valve seals. I've got the gasket kit on order so when they are finished, I'll get started on putting it back together.
 
Reply
Old Feb 3, 2013 | 04:45 AM
  #11  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default cylinder head returned

Got the head back this week. Needed to be machined (planed flat) from where the gasket went bad. They stripped it down, cleaned it, machined it and put everything back together. Then they tested it to ensure the valves were sealing properly. Looks like brand new...

I need to get the studs for the EGR valve and would like to get one bolt for the intake manifold. I can't seem to find them online - any thoughts? I will call the dealer on Monday if they aren't available anywhere else.

The other thing I had a question about was the coolant housing. There appeared to be an RTV type sealant on the mating surfaces as a gasket. I didn't see anything in the cylinder head gasket set for this purpose. Any suggestions on what to use or is there a separate gasket that I should purchase?

thanks

sorry the pic is upside down - I saved it right side up and upside down and they both showed up upside down when I uploaded them.
 
Attached Thumbnails ignition coil wiring-cylinder-head.jpg  
Reply
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 04:09 PM
  #12  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

Got it all put back together. Should I fill the timing chain tensioner with oil before starting the engine? Just want to make sure it's doing it's job.
 
Reply
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 04:53 PM
  #13  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

well I turned the key and it started right up... running smooth but it sounds like the chain is slapping. thought the upper chain tensioner that was removed needed some oil to get pumped through it (as the engine was running) but was afraid to let it go too long. any thoughts?
 
Reply
Old Mar 4, 2013 | 09:33 PM
  #14  
plums's Avatar
Veteran Member
Joined: Feb 2011
Posts: 9,733
Likes: 2,201
From: on-the-edge
Default

No idea ... but bump.
 
Reply
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 04:08 PM
  #15  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default

Found a thread to install the tensioner. It says to put in the tensioner in with the smaller bolt, back off the allen head inside and then put the rest of it together. I tried this but got the same results.

Here's a video of what it's doing.
 
Attached Files
File Type: wmv
IMG_1368.wmv (1.13 MB, 127 views)
Reply
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 06:12 PM
  #16  
Jagfix38's Avatar
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2011
Posts: 202
Likes: 61
From: Australia
Default

dtrain,

That sounds more like your cooling fan hitting the shroud or radiator or something close by???
 
Reply
Old Mar 6, 2013 | 06:51 PM
  #17  
dtrain's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Member
Joined: Mar 2012
Posts: 87
Likes: 14
From: ohio
Default Problem Solved.

Good call!!! Jacked it up and found a hairline crack toward the bottom of the shroud. Couldn't see it from above - removed the shroud and the noise disappeared...

thanks
 
Reply
Related Topics
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
copyman01
XK8 / XKR ( X100 )
7
Nov 1, 2015 01:01 PM
jagent
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
10
Sep 12, 2015 01:40 AM
1964Daimler
MKI / MKII S type 240 340 & Daimler
0
Sep 9, 2015 11:28 AM
Bones
XJ6 & XJ12 Series I, II & III
17
Sep 8, 2015 08:34 PM
avern1
X-Type ( X400 )
12
Sep 8, 2015 06:25 PM

Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 08:11 PM.