Upper Ball Joint - 89 XJ6 VDP
#1
Upper Ball Joint - 89 XJ6 VDP
I'm having a problem disconnecting the upper ball joint from the steering knuckle.
When I try to loosen the ball stud nut, the whole thing turns. The nut doesn't back down on the threads.
If I'm supposed to loosen the nut, then use a puller to pop the ball stud loose from the steering knuckle ... seems like the entire thing shouldn't turn.
The goal is to remove the upper control arm to replace the bushings.
When I try to loosen the ball stud nut, the whole thing turns. The nut doesn't back down on the threads.
If I'm supposed to loosen the nut, then use a puller to pop the ball stud loose from the steering knuckle ... seems like the entire thing shouldn't turn.
The goal is to remove the upper control arm to replace the bushings.
#3
Yeah, I had same problem. Jack the lower controll arm up a bit helped me. Then you should be able to loosen up the nut once pressure is off the nut and back on the ball. My car jacked up off the jack stand about 1" or 2 doing this so don't be scared.
Make sure you unthread it passed the nylon before you pop it with the puller or else you will be in the same problem but worse.
With that said, if you dont want to replace the ball joint and just do upper bushings then you don't need to pop the joint just take the bolts that hold the ball joint to the controll arm out. **Note the shims that were in place on the ball joint** Then your controll arm is in 2 pieces which will make it easyer to remove.
The bushings in those things are a pita but what works very well is a vise, an 1 1/2" pipe nipple, and I think it was a 15/16" inch socket[Or coulda been 5/8th my point is there are some perfect fitting sockets for this job]. I am having a hard time but the bushing hole has a flared end so a larger socket (might have been 1") pushes it down to the flare then the 15/16 fits almost perfect through the hole to press the rest of the way.
One of my arms was very very hard to get out: had all my weight cranking on the vise. The other side slid out like butter. Install is reverse from removal but I recommend you use a little oil around the bushings to slide in if they are tight. Don't be afraid of pressing that rubber flat while installing, this rubber is very very durable.
Or you can just take em in and pay some cash to have em done for you.
Make sure you unthread it passed the nylon before you pop it with the puller or else you will be in the same problem but worse.
With that said, if you dont want to replace the ball joint and just do upper bushings then you don't need to pop the joint just take the bolts that hold the ball joint to the controll arm out. **Note the shims that were in place on the ball joint** Then your controll arm is in 2 pieces which will make it easyer to remove.
The bushings in those things are a pita but what works very well is a vise, an 1 1/2" pipe nipple, and I think it was a 15/16" inch socket[Or coulda been 5/8th my point is there are some perfect fitting sockets for this job]. I am having a hard time but the bushing hole has a flared end so a larger socket (might have been 1") pushes it down to the flare then the 15/16 fits almost perfect through the hole to press the rest of the way.
One of my arms was very very hard to get out: had all my weight cranking on the vise. The other side slid out like butter. Install is reverse from removal but I recommend you use a little oil around the bushings to slide in if they are tight. Don't be afraid of pressing that rubber flat while installing, this rubber is very very durable.
Or you can just take em in and pay some cash to have em done for you.
#4
Nice assist gunnerman, I agree, from experience with Rangies, leaving the weight on them and cracking the nuts before jacking.
Also here is a thread from 2010 Ball Joints replacing.
Also here is a thread from 2010 Ball Joints replacing.
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