Good morning,

I come with a humbling request and most likely out of frustration of not understanding what I'm missing. Here's what is going on

• After a 3 hour drive the car stalls, and hasn't started since
• Prior to it stalling, I got some diesel from a reputable station which I've gotten some from them before
• About a mile down the road. The car just stalls
• When I got it back home I've discovered that I have no spark from the coil or any of the plugs from the distributor
• In my troubleshooting steps, I've replaced the ignition coil and the ignition module twice. The latest is an AC Delco d1906 which I have pictured
• I've gone as far as placing a wire from positive on the battery to the positive on the coil and I still don't have spark
• I am not too knowledgeable on publishing steps on gas vehicles as I do work on diesel engines for my older Mercedes w123s. I'm also not a mechanic.
• I've been speaking with individuals troubleshooting steps and I've gone through the troubleshooting guide in the service manual which I also have, pictures included

The latest I've done is attempt to start the car with replacing the ignition module in the ignition amplifier. I have not yet performed the ohms tests of the new ignition module since I just replaced it 3 minutes ago and I'm getting angry on what I'm missing.

What steps do I need to do to get this car working, how do I specifically diagnose the ignition switch without having to replace it? Am I doing the ignition switch bypass correctly by putting the wire between the positive on the battery to the positive on the coil? Is there something else I need to be looking at.

​​​​​​As for how the car is currently functioning, all the electronics from all I can see work. I confirmed that fuel is going to the fuel rail because I am hearing the fuel pump and I've taken the fuel line off and I have fuel coming up to it.


Ignition amplifier I have replaced the ignition module twice.

The latest ignition module that's installed

Troubleshooting steps I've gotten from the service manual

Some of the gear used to troubleshoot

Replacement coil and original

Thank you so much and I appreciate everyone's help.

 

Diesel?

 

Before you try anything else: clean all the corrosion off the Ignition Amplifier, inside and out, bolts, washer and nut must also be clean or new. The outside mounting bolt needs a good ground to frame or engine block. Temporary disconnect the Condenser and the Diode in upper right corner (they are for protection and radio interference and can short out to ground.)
Can you give the manufacture and part number of new ignition coil. It should be about .9 ohms..
Rgds
David

 

I'm not too sure what you're in question of?

 

Thank you David for the details. I have only been screwing in one of the my mounting bolts to the frame when I finish installing the new module. I'll work on completing cleaning out the amplifier and disconnecting the pieces you're mentioning.

 

• Prior to it stalling, I got some diesel from a reputable station which I've gotten some from them before

It’s not going to run on diesel!!

 

Oh oh I misspoke there I did not put diesel in it. Sorry for the confusion!!

 

Here is the part number for the coil that I had purchased on rockauto

STANDARD MOTOR PRODUCTS UF2 SpecificationsAttachment Method ClampColor BlackConnector Gender FemaleConnector Quantity 2Ignition Type Oil FilledMounting Bracket Included NoMounting Hardware Included NoTerminal Gender FemaleTerminal Quantity 2Terminal Type SCREWVoltage 12OEM / Interchange Numbers: 001582803, 032418100, 037018100, 048318100B, 048318100C, 059905105, 059905105B, 059985164, 12111357294, 12131357240, 12131357294, 12131357295, 12131357295AE, 1219230, 12303003, 12303005, 12309054, 152418100, 152418100A, 156218100, 167218100A, 171905115, 171905115A, 1972568, 1972641, 1972648, 1972666, 1972668, 2243314401, 2243314606, 2243314615, 2243314616, 22433A5400, 22433A5410, 22433AA170, 22433U3310, 360718100A, 395824920, 4196720, 4386221, 4627642, 7952666, 826490, 887118100, 887118920, 887124920, 8941086921, 8941303570, 8941303571, 90160210201, D0RY12029B, E35618100, E35718100, E8BZ12029B, MD003800, T0562180, T0586552 Show Fewer

 

David,

I hope your doing well; I took a few hours to troubleshoot this car and I'm still getting nowhere. I have done:
Cleaned out the amplifier as instructed and ensured it looked good I have some images below.

Pre cleanup

Pre cleanup

Cleaned out.

After reinstalling module with thermal grease

After cleaning and removal of the two components. New module.

I then reinstalled everything, used a spark tester on cylinder 1 and receiving no spark. Test resistance on the new ignition coil and I have 1.4 -1.5 ohms. The original ignition coil is at .9 ohms

I sat down for a few moments and reviewed images of my ignition amplifier to others and I noticed I may have my wires crossed. The black white wire and white were incorrect. I unfortunately didn't have previous pictures to verify the wiring layout and if I did, they are gone with a phone I just replaced. I placed the white wire on B and black-white on C. I had those swapped around. Could having those wires crossed and me starting the vehicle break the new module?

I don't recall a good method to test the ignition module so what I tried was testing resistance on the modules original and new.

The results were drastically different:

Original: roughly 110 ohms on W and G
New: roughly 9.9 ohms on W and G
​​​​​​Both B and C don't show any resistance.

At this point I put the original coil and ignition module back into place and still no spark. What can I test next?

 

1. Your new coil will work at 1.4 ohms and is a aftermarket coil aimed at many makes and models.. The .9 ohm is Jaguar spec (Genuine Lucas Sport Ignition Coil DLB198) and will produce a hotter spark.
2. I checked my spare Ignition Module and it was 6.9 ohms between W and G. No resistance between B and C.
3. With new Ignition Module and Condenser and diode disconnected, and the Amplifier box having a good ground, you are not getting spark.. Next step is to look at input to B and C from the Distributor pickup.
Timing at idle must match placard on inside of your hood (bonnet) probably 14 or 17 degrees for your year and model.
Check Vac advance and Mechanical advance movement with cap off that they move freely and snap back to idle position when released.
Your check of resistance of distributor pickup (input to B and C) is good, make sure neither lead shorts to ground. These wires do break with age giving intermittent signal to the Ignition module; with ohm meter connected, wiggle wires to see if you get an open.
The gap between pickup and star rotor should be .014 to .016" checked with a non-magnetic feeler gauge.
If you have not removed any spark plug wires since it last ran, you can rule out ignition wire routing.
If you have not replace cap and rotor recently, the internal carbon button at inside center of cap can be a problem with spark going to plugs, try removing the center high tension lead from ignition coil to cap and see if you can get a spark from the ignition wire coil to the cap.
Rgds
David

 

You must have both mounting bolts installed on the Ignition amplifier, other wise you will have vacuum leak into the intake manifold.

 

There is also a module in the distributor you should use an ohm meter to check.

 

Several things can be wrong with the pickup assembly inside the distributor...

A new pickup P/N AEU1500, has new wires, new coil, new mechanism for vacuum and mechanical advance, and a new ground between the moving advance parts. An intermittent failure of any of the functions can cause a no spark result. At $200 (tax and shipping) you are half way to a new aftermarket Pertronix distributor (plug and Play) that does not require the use of an Ignition amplifier. (many happy XJ6 S3 Jaguar owners with this distributor)

https://www.sngbarratt.com/English/#...AEU1500%60cuse


(I would get the recommended new coil and wires at the same time.)

Rgds
David

 

David,

Thanks for the details on this. I did have the cap off and I could rotate and snap the Rotor arm back into position. I will have to get a filler gauge sometime soon. I did replace all Spark plugs and Wires about 4 months ago, cap and rotor too at the same time.

 

That new distributor is temping, and I would assume the Distributor has the Pickup already in the unit? Then I would assume that distributor goes directly to the coil?

One last Thought I had was the low voltage coming from the Ignition switch(or so I think). based on my previous comments and images the voltage from the ignition switch may be low, I believe it's 7 volts. Is that ok? Is there any testing I could do there? I'l be circling back to removing the distributor cap and checking there further.

 

One last Thought I had was the low voltage coming from the Ignition switch(or so I think). based on my previous comments and images the voltage from the ignition switch may be low, I believe it's 7 volts. Is that ok? Is there any testing I could do there? I'l be circling back to removing the distributor cap and checking there further.

Yes the 7 volts could be an issue.. Try a jumper wire from + battery post to the + ignition coil post, and then turn on ignition, good chance this will fire the ignition. the electrical portion of the Ignition switches have removed from the back of the mechanical part of the key housing and disassembled for cleaning of corrosion and re-lubed by forum members successfully. I just purchase a new one.

https://mossmotors.com/dac1422jag-ig...fault_products

Rgds
David

 

David,
​​​​​​I will have to attempt this later this week with the original devices in place. I did attempt using a speaker wire between the positive on battery to pos on coil and it didn't cause any spark. However, I tried that on the new coil, not the one.

 

With the Jumper, + Bat to + coil, did you try to start car with ignition switch. You will need to have the 12 volts at the coil, plus the distributor turning past the trigger point?

 

David,

With all original bits put back in. I have a running car. This car did not run when using a jumper before but now it does with the original coil and ignition module. It sputtering but it started and is running.

What would be your suggestion?

I still have the new coil and new ignition module, would I need to replace the ignition switch?


Update:

Also do I need to reconnect the condenser and diode in the amplifier?

 

Quote:

Originally Posted by packetthrower

David,

With all original bits put back in. I have a running car. This car did not run when using a jumper before but now it does with the original coil and ignition module. It sputtering but it started and is running.

What would be your suggestion? I still have the new coil and new ignition module, would I need to replace the ignition switch?

Update: Also do I need to reconnect the condenser and diode in the amplifier?

Yes you can added back in the condenser and hook up diode inside Ignition module. If it stars again both are good, if not, one is bad, then it can be left out without any problem.

I would plan on replacing the switch, in mean time you could add a relay to side of ignition coil mount, until you get switch in.

Some have used an Amazon 30 amp 4 pin relay with built in fuse for this. You may find this at your local automotive retailer.

Amazon APIELE 4 Pin Relay 12V 40A Relay with 30A Fuse DC SPST Fused Relay Normally Open 1NO with 14 AWG Harness Socket for Car Truck Motor

It is good to find a fault, as there are so many possibilities. It is like Christmas tree light stings, it's the last bulb you check that is bad....
Rgds
David