Nix's Central Locking hasn't worked correctly since I took her all apart in November 2014 for an extended period of work and repair that turned out to be 10 months.

When the car went back together central locking would Unlock but not Lock. I would have preferred it was the other way around, but.....

It wasn't critically necessary for driving; merely, um, Inconvenient. So, this was at the top of the list of work to be done over this Winter because I Don't like for things to not work correctly!

First I took all the door liners off and lubricated all the linkages.

I could hear the relay clicking under the back seat, but had No idea the hidey-hole they stuck the relays in!

Someone with big hands would be in trouble here, it was an awkward, tight squeeze for me. The wire with alligator clips is a ground for testing.

They're held in place by 2 screws under the seat which one must remove the seat and take up the carpet as shown to get at. After that according to the ROM, one must support the relays and draw them out the hole. When mounted they sit with the wires down.

Testing with a jumper directly from the battery and hotting up the Large Orange/Green wire (Locking relay) activated the locks as they should. Nothing wrong with the door solenoids.

Large Orange/Red is the Unlock relay

(Brown/Blue is power, hot all the time.)

The tops look like this, if it matters:



It was at this point the right front door latch got all jammed up. https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...d-door-176355/

I took the Locking relay apart and discovered a point burned. I filed both points and thought that would fix the problem. It didn't.




The relay goes into the can with the points to the black end.


I eventually discovered that someone (I won't mention any names but her initials are LnrB) got the wiring on the console switch wrong during reassembly.

Yes, I did get the relays screwed back in their proper place and didn't just leave them lying in the cross member. It wasn't as hard as I thought it might be.

Here is the correct layout of wires on the back of the switch:


All locks now operate correctly and easily.
(';')

 

Great work, and no tools in sight!! maybe I should get some of that nail varnish!!
Found those relays when I dismantled the cars but hadn't worked out yet what they were for!! thanks for the info, it will definitely be useful at some stage.

 

Well sorted out. I have had to recover from self inflicted problems a couple of times now. Its still satisfying to finally work out whats happened , and you also walk away having learnt a fair bit as well. I only get upset if I make the same mistake twice ....grrrrrrr

 

Well done.

 

Im working on a 1976 S2 XJ12 and the brn/blu wire at the main switch has no power. Should I go to the relay area next or is there another power source for the locking system?
thanks
Kevin M

 

This is +12v wire that feeds the shifter and cig lighter light bulbs. Trying to figure out what male connection its supposed to be on



Empty ground tab at shifter base. Any idea whats supposed to be connected to it?
lnrB, I'm digging in the console of my beast and there are a few wiring things that I can't figure out in addition to the central locking system being dead. I've attached 2 photos of the unknowns.
Any help would be appreciated
Kevin M
76 S2 XJ12

 

ElinorB:


Great on at least two levels.


1. Fixed.


2. Issue acknowledged and accepted.


Yeah, I feel the kinsmanship. My starter issues involved me!!!! Starter relays need at least one diode!!!!!


Carl

 

Hello, Kevin,
Sorry for my delay in answering.

Wiring in my console was so stirred, hacked, modified and otherwise messed with that I couldn't possibly tell you how it's *Supposed* to be.

However, the 2 wires on a single V-connector are, in my car, power/control connections of some sort. I had one like that for my Window relay, which itself was a hack job and not even close to stock.

The spade on the tower bolt is Definitely a ground/earth point, which holds 2 smallish black wires under that bolt. Those wires disappeared into a harness containing a dozen other wires.

You might look around for a stray black wire with a female spade that seems to be seeking a home.

I have to leave soon, but this afternoon I'll look for a post I did a while back, of my work on my own console. Maybe you can find something there to help you more than this.

I'll be back.
(';')

 

Kevin,
Here is the link to all the work I did on my console. You will quickly see why I have no idea what the wiring should be, as they vampired off a known working source to make something else work. I hope you can find something there to help you.
https://www.jaguarforums.com/forum/x...on-faq-130996/
(';')

 

kmarajh.

since the spade connector is bolted to the body, it is a Ground, as Elinor said.

 

My car was converted to a BBC early in its life so I'm also dealing with some of the "hacking"


I still can't figure out why there is no power to the Brn/blu wire to the central locking switch. Will be doing some more powe tracing this weekend and will be giving it a straight 12V to see if the rest of the system even responds. thanks for the help as always

 

Yeah, I identified it as such, my concern was what was supposed to be grounded to it

 

I have recently done with central locking repair by a locksmith and the charges for repairing the central locking was too reasonable.

 

I have recently done with central locking repair by a https://www.google.com/maps/place/Locksmith+Sparks/@40.0344114,-122.0782931,7z/data=!4m8!1m2!2m1!1slocksmith+sparks!3m4!1s0x809938d03de1192d:0xaac9e1eba85bffeb!8m2!3d39.5623623!4d-119.835721 and the charges for repairing the central locking was too reasonable.

 

My god, found the ones under the passenger seat rear, what were they hiding these from? I think Anne Frank would have been safe in there.

 

LnrB: Fantastic write up and pics. The central power locks are completely inoperable on my car and you saved me at least a few hours of muddling about. Thanks again for your thorough documentation. I have several projects ahead of the locks but I surely will be circling back to this post. Ren

 

During the winter of 2018-19 I was repairing-rebuilding my Air-Con (successfully by the way), and while reinstalling all the ski slope switches (battery stupidly still connected) there was a little spark from the Central Locking switch.
OOPS!!
But it still worked so I had dodged that one! I had cheered too soon though because in about 5 seconds I shorted the same thing again but this time I had killed it.

I have made a couple half-hearted attempts to find a circuit breaker I saw in the Blue Book but with no success. That meant disassembling the Underscuttle just above driver's knees, Including messing about with the Viper stuff to make a proper search and do it right.

Oh, I did Not want to do that. I have Dreaded tearing into that system, procrastinated for all these 4 years; every winter finding some lame excuse to put it off again. But today, as the car will be disabled for the winter anyway, I decided I might as well bite the bullet, take a deep breath, fire up the Profane heater and just do it,

As soon as I dropped the underskuttle the Viper and all it's tendrils fell out.
Right there staring me in the face was the whole problem.

That sure looks to me like a Blown Fuse! It has soot inside and everything, and little shards rattling around.
Well that was easy, and best of all, I know Exactly when it happened and why.
To think how I had Dreaded this.

Husband said there should be a new one in his Spare Parts Selection Area (selections of copper washers, star locks, O-rings, Nylocks, fuses etc) where this sort of thing awaits need. And it there was.

It's not Exactly the same configuration internally, but it's the same 30A capacity and fit in the holder.
Not only that, for the first time in 4 years, CENTRAL LOCKING WORKED!!


Now some might be thinking, So what's the big deal with open doors?
The big deal is, This is the First Time since late 2018 that the right rear door has opened as It Refused to unlock with the paddle. And, as I have just explained, Central Locking did not work.

So now, the next thing will be, Removal of that door liner and adjustment of the locking rods.
Not a bad start for Winter I don't think.
(';')

 

I really appreciate you documenting your "central locking system" dilemma. I still haven't gotten to repairing mine yet but when time presents itself your now immortal words will serve as my guide.

 

LnR
Just in case it is useful, I had a problem with the passenger door refuse to lock when the in-door paddle was pulled, though it did locl OK with the key.
I found that set into the rod about half way along it, was a brass tube-like item about 3 inches long. The effective length of this is adjustable by means of locking nuts on the rod. This brass item, unbelieveably, is a sprung-loaded plunger. Its function (I can only surmise) is to damp the clonk of the lock as the rod actuates it. Once I had realised the plunger was the problem, because the spring has weakened to the extent that the rod would not actuate the lock, merely compress the spring in the brass bit, I tried to fix the problem by adjusting the rod much longer; but that did not work, so I fitted a star-washer to the rod so the spring loaded brass thing was in effect solid. Perfect!

 

Here is my experience with the inside paddle locking. As I inspected and tested everything electrical and mechanical in all four door's I noticed that manually, the paddle on any door would not engage and hold in lock position with the door open. Close the door and it locked as designed. My thought at the time was that this was a kind of fail-safe to prevent locking a door with the paddle, closing the door, and discovering you left the keys inside. The doors could only be locked manually if the doors are closed. I didn't try to trace this condition because it seemed like a good deal. That's my story and I'll stick with it.

Dave