My Drivers window is slow going up in my series 3. I have already regreased the gear in the motor/regulator. The glass doesnt seem to be level going up. its low at the front and dragging in the rail. Has anyone adjusted for this or have any suggestions?
Thanks

 

Try some silicone spray on the felt channels

Cheers
DD

 

something must be out of the track in the pantograph. you might remove the door card and observe it as it moves up and down, preferably with a camera.

 

I suggest prior to using silicone spray on the channels, spray all purpose spray cleaner (kitchen spray) on paper towels and wipe inside the channels until you don't get any more dirt off. Then spray silicone in the channels. Also, double check the ground and clean the switches.

If it is binding, follow Jose's suggestion.

 

Just to update this thread. I did first try and make mechanical adjustments but the adjustment only made the front of the window dip even more in the front channel when going up. There is a lot of play when I grab the window at the rear part and move it up and down, not sure if that's normal?
Anyway, I tried the silicone grease in the channel as suggested and that did improve the movement enough to where its reasonable So thanks for that suggestion. I think the root of the issue is where the front channel transitions from the channel that is bolted inside the door shell to the fixed channel which protrudes up into the window frame, the channel narrows a little causing a slight pinch point. Cannot tell why from only looking into the shell without disassembling everything, the channels maybe slightly misaligned but i did not feel like blowing the door apart once it was working reasonably okay using the grease.
thanks

 

The cocked glass and excess movement on one end sounds like things I ran into when took all my door regulators/motors out. On the front windows, there are two horizontal sliders that are attached to two "scissor" arms of the regulator assembly. The sliders must fit into guide channels, one inside the door frame and the other on the bottom of the glass. The channel in the door is pretty short and controls the leveling and fit of the glass while the other is for the main lift arm. If you have a lot of up/down movement by hand, the slider may have come out of the door channel or something else may have come loose or broke. In order to figure out the problem, you will have to take the card off the door and investigate. After you find and fix the problem, then is a good time to use the silicone spray.

Oops, again I didn't let your whole post sink in. The above suggestion is for the guide channels within the door that control the up/down movement of the window. Reading your post again, I think you are talking about the front glass channel (the one with "fuzz") that runs vertical down into the door. That one is an even bigger pain to control and get back into position, but it can be done. This whole window regulator thing is a task that requires three hands, but the door only provides room for one hand. The front glass channel is held in place at the top, just below the top of the door opening, with a slide-together tongue and groove type connection and at the bottom by a screw that runs through the metal door panel AND the motor mounting plate. This prevents you from anchoring the bottom of the guide while trying to shuffle stuff around in there. Once that bottom screw is removed, the whole channel is just hanging by the slight grip at the upper tongue/groove and the friction fit of the "fuzzy" insert. If the upper connection or the bottom screw have failed, again, you will have to take the card off the door and study the construction. The large hole at the latch end of the door provides good access to support and maneuver the motor assy, but you will need long arms and lots of patience to reach ahead of the motor (once it's in place) to hold the bottom channel attachment in position to thread the screw in from the outside. And all this time, the 6lb glass is trying to fall and slide around. What I did was to get a couple of my small wood working clamps and tape wood spacers to the contact faces so that I could clamp the glass around the door frame at the top. That will hold the glass in position after you have it in the horizontal channels. The bottom front channel bracket has a slotted hole to adjust the fit around the front of the glass, don't get it too tight or too loose.

Just one of the more exasperating parts of my rebuild, but once it's done, you feel smarter.

Dave

 

I am going to set aside your observation that the glass doesn't seem level as it attempts to rise. That may indeed be a matter of adjustment, BUT the most common cause of slow window movement in these cars is a carboned switch! Take the switch apart (easy), clean the contacts (easy), reassemble (almost as easy). Done. That and, as recommened, some silicone spray on the felt channel and the window will zip up and down, good for the next 15 years.

 

I was thinking the same thing Gregory.... When I'm testing window switches, there is a big difference from switch to switch in the speed....
Another way to check to see if that's it is just to swap a switch from another window, to the window that's moving slow.... If it helps with the speed, that's the answer....
Cheers
David
shop.EverydayXJ.com

 

At the risk of being black-balled here, xjtony has come to us with a problem/question and has observed that the glass in the door "doesn't seem to be level going up", "low at the front and dragging", "a lot of play when I grab the window at the rear part and move it up and down", and "I think the root of the issue is where the front channel transitions from the channel that is bolted inside the door...........". The window does in fact move, but poorly.

I completely agree with those who suggest that dirty/carboned switches are usually the leading cause of poor window performance. But xjtony presented compelling comments that point to a mechanical issue and I don't think that his observations should be "set aside" before helping correct that problem.

Dave