Sanchez:


That's it!!! Congrats. It's been a while, but, I've done just that
on older critters. If the coils and armatures are not shorted.
brushes, bushings and a clean up fix most. Many "rebuild" shops do
much if anything more.


At times, if the armature is exceedingly rough, it must be "turned".
At one time I had a well worn dedicated lathe for just that.
But, in pre lathe days, emery paper. Undercut with a busted hack saw blade. Some say that not required.


If not abused, most are very robust. If the engine doesn't crank in a few RPM's, stop!!! Fix it. Don't add a busted starter to the issues.


Did errands in my Jeep today. It needs exercise as well!!!
4.0 OHV six utterly tough and reliable.


Fixed my busted side post battery as well. It is a spare. Starter travails "melted" the - side post. Lost the tin insert!!! I made a better one from a brass fitting. Hack saw, grinder and tap made a better insert.


Over kill for my little Atlas lathe.


Carl

 

To anyone out there:
Is there a pre-made electrical harness to replace the harness that runs along the water rail? Mine is brittle. Do I have to make the harness myself. If I have to, I would like to do it with the original color code. If anyone has done this before, where did you find the correct wire colors?

 

I rebuilt mine but i just used any colour wire i could find, got new connectors from ebay and soldered everything, i only replaced the brittle wires and kinda wished i had found the correct coloured wires as.all the damned connectors are the same, i got the thermotine plug and csi plugs mixed up, had a hell of a time figuring out why i was overfueling like crazy!! Got it sorted and wrapped everything in wire loom and then electrical tape (wish i hadnt used green tape, but at the time i had just repaced all vac lines with green hose, thought it would look good, i was wrong, its embarrasing! Lol) but it is tidy and i think a bit more heat resistant than just the cloth tape that jag used.

 

I figured I could do that as a last resort. I will check with some of the jaguar parts suppliers and see whether they have the correct colors first.

 

If the harness you are talking about has the oil pressure, water temp, tach wires, etc and comes out of the front inside fender (battery side) just in front of the shock (damper) you might want to check out Jaguar Specialties Andrew sells these replacement engine bay harnesses to guys who are doing V8 swaps and need to replace the engine harness. He has a website with pictures of the items he sells.

 

Can't wait to see the updated photos! Good Luck!

 

just a few more pics. Did service to my front wheel bearings today. Taking it on a 80 mile round trip today. Checklist in hand. So far, most of the electrical stuff seem to be working. I have to check the transducer for the speedometer. Sometimes it works, sometimes not.
Weird scenario with my rear marker lamps. Remove and replace fuse and they work, then slowly go off. Fiddle with the fuse and nothing happens. Remove the fuse and put it back and it works, the slowly goes off as if its on a decay switch. Front marker lamps are fine. Installed voltmeter and the voltage drops slowly from 12 volts to 0. It is not instantaneous as you would expect.
Installed a new 8 speaker stereo system. Four new door speakers, 2 6x9s at the back and 2 3x5s up in the front foot well. Had to move some stuff around to install those. So now I have bluetooth and USB for my music and phone.
Also changed out my wheels for some Series 2 ones.

 

So will it be at the jag show next weekend in celebration??

 

@ Darrenmb: Not quite complete, but I have no problem going out to Celebration. Send me the info.
As for my drive today, all was well. On my way back from Vero, I got on I-95 and let it rip. I am running 215/60/15 tires and I don't know whether my speedometer is accurate since the transducer is acting up. Anyway, @3800- 4000 RPM the speedometer was reading 100 MPH. @2000 RPM it reads 55. MPH, @ 2200 RPM-60 MPH.
Tire size may also be causing the speedometer to be inaccurate.
Got home and I have a small engine oil leak. I had the car up this morning to remove and clean the transducer and I saw some oil at the filter housing. I am hoping it not the hose, but if it is I will have to take care of that ASAP.
Gas mileage seems to be good. I left with 3/4 in my left tank (Actually, both tanks were at 3/4).and I am a tad under 1/2 tank. 40 miles driving like a decent, law abiding citizen and on the way back, 40 miles driving like a maniac lol.

 

@ Darrenmb: I believe I bought those front seats from you. I drove up to Ormond Beach to meet up with you while you were on your way to work and you had them in your work van. OR maybe I am mistaken. If so, I apologize.

 

That sounds about right according to the tankers that clog our local roadways. At least it's close enough you probably won't be arrested. hahaha

So you left with about 8 gallons in the left tank, and after 40 miles, at least 20 of which were, um, as close to flat out as you dared, you came back with between 5 and 6 gallons in that tank (let's say 5.5 for easy calculation)? that gives you about 16mpg overall, which is not bad for driving like a maniac for 20 miles! LOL
(';')

 

@LnrB: Could have gone faster lol, but my accelerator pedal is kinda stiff. I am planning on removing it completely and lubing it to see if that helps. Also will be looking at the routeing to see if it was moved by the PO. If not a new cable. So far, so good. I am very pleased with the result of all the servicing I did to the car. To this point it seems reliable enough for me to take it on a long trip, possibly to Miami which is about 210 miles one way from my home. ( think I am getting a little ahead of myself here). Got to attend to a few minor things on the car first.
Oh, BTW, temp here was 82 degrees and during the "maniac" driving the temp never even got up to the 90 degree mark. Getting off the highway and into traffic, the temp stayed just below my 90 degree mark. I am using 2 electric fans for cooling.
Now, I have to get the AC serviced. I tested the system and and it responds to the commands as it should so a new expansion valve, evacuation, and switch over to R134A, unless I can get some R12 or its equivalent.

 

First off, Sanchez, I Seriously miscalculated your fuel economy, making your first trip a mere 40 miles and not 40 miles EACH WAY! However, given the fact that after 2500rpm the economy tanks anyway, you can stick to that number if it makes you happy.

How can a Jaguar driver Live with a stiff accelerator??!!

Doug advised me to get an IR thermometer to see Exactly what the temp was at any given needle position. I could only read the back of the heads but I was pleased with the number (112F). Of course, it was last fall, when the air was cool, after a good run on the open road, sitting in the garage. I'll be anxious to see the reading in July, in town, in traffic, with AC. I might have to get electric fans, but that will be another winter's project if I do.

Now, about your R12 vs R134a: You *Might* find 134a acceptable, but as Jags were *Designed* for R12 (a Much superior refrigerant), you might not. I didn't like it in my last car (not Wart), which I had professionally converted, as a responsible, believing (naive) young driver trying to do the "right thing,", it SUCKED POND WATER!!

However, soon after that time, husband found a Propane refrigerant online, HC12a, which is used by motor home guys and other RV'ers, and it works even better than R12 (I can attest to that, and it's cheaper!); requires no special tools, no need for special treatments, permits or licenses (you might discreetly check local laws anyway, but I'm a firm believer in what they don't know can't hurt you until you get caught), no changes in equipment (it's always good to change the dryer anyway) and is completely compatible with all commonly used refrigerants (I imagine that lets ammonia off the hook).

I used to have the link to the site to back up all this but I can't find it at the moment, Of course.

So, let us know about your trip to Miami!
(';')

 

Yep that was me!