Tom

The vapour cans are in the rear pillars, next to the rear screen. They are under the piece of trim that covers the C post. Can't see them unless you take that piece of trim out.

Fuel smell in the boot could be a variety of things, but take it pretty serious. I'd try to figure out where it comes from.

David

 

Oh, OK the pillars by the rear seats...got ya. As for the fuel smell I am taking it serious. I am taking a break from uptairs work & am going to work on the trunk/boot area. Look at the ECU , checking gounds, bulbs, connectors, etc

 

Really? $358. is definitely not 'a fraction of the cost of a new tank', since a new tank can be bought for $300.00. or so. If it was $158.00 then we are cooking.

Zurdo

 

I used POR 15, and would recommend it to anyone. Takes more than a few hours though, if you get their 3 part kit, which probably isn't really necessary. I had a 1/8 inch hole. Took it to a radiator shop for boiling, $20.00 as I recall. They fixed the hole, then I used the POR15. Took 5 days, but then again, working in the Arkansas heat and humidity made me go inside during the hottest part of the day. 1 day to remove tank. 1 day at radiator shop. 1 day using the flush part of the kit, and has to be bone dry afterwards, so a fan or wet vac blowing air through the tank takes awhile. 1 day applying the metal etch and POR15, and dry time. 1 day reinstalling. This could all be reduced to maybe 2 days, but I hate working in the heat. The POR15 can be applied to the outside of the tank also, no more rust inside or out. You have to protect all threaded fitting openings, or their history, the stuff is about as tough as steel to get out of threads, (I know). My kit from POR15 website, was $85.00 as I recall, and if you don't mind working on your own car, its better than buying a new tank. If you don't enjoy working on these cars, then your in the wrong place, I might add. Just my 2 cents worth, and I'm very pleased with the results. Someday I'll probably have a used tank to sell, after the rest of the car is gone. ;o)

 

I salute your effort, it's the kind of work I had to do on an old Austin Taxi tank when there were no other options. In this case, I'll keep rusted ones until that day comes for the Series III tanks as well. I can tell you this, I have sold two used XJ40 tanks for
'88-'89 cars, as you can't buy replacements for those anywhere.

 

Jose, et al,

Sorry I took so long to reply but I've been gone on Spring Break and will be leaving again on Friday for the weekend. I did remove the check valve and drill it out, but haven't put more gas in the tank yet. Thank you everyone for your input. Will update you again when I get gas in the driver side tank.

Dave

 

Greetings Cally,

That's not a frequent occurrance with your model. I have seen several '88-'89 tanks which leak from corrosion, and water leaking into the trunks of these cars were a factor.

There isn't much you can see, as you already know, with the tank in place. There is a vapor line and check valve at the left lower corner, make sure that it is connected properly. I would probably remove the tank for inspection: exploratory surgery is something I rarely do, but without a really good hydrocarbon leak detector (sniffer) it is unlikely that you will pinpoint the leak unless you see it, or have the tank pressure tested.

The rear bulhead behind the seat is not airtight on your car but it is much better than an XJS, where liquid fuel leaks from the tank can run inside the cabin. The fact that you smell fuel inside the car makes me suspect that it is a small liquid leak, as opposed to just vapor. You'll be able to inspect the top cap (eveporative loss flange) and its seal with the tank removed, as well as the other five sides of the tank once it's out. My first guess would be that someone replaced the fuel pump (inside your tank) and did not correctly refit the top cap on the tank. Good hunting!

 

Dave,
I hope it works out.

Jose

 

Espresso did you ever find the source of the fuel smell in the trunk?