Hello!

I seem to be pulling 300mA with ignition off (see attached picture, I have the wires reversed so it reads negative). Car is fine if I start every couple days, but battery will be dead if left for a week or so. This is an LS3 swap with aftermarket fuse box.

What I've done so far:
-Double-checked aftermarket wiring to ensure it's downstream of ignition power, and unplugged LS ECU to confirm nothing on the swap side
-Pulled all fuses from primary Jag fuse boxes (driver, passenger, engine bay driver side)

Any ideas on where else to check? I'm pretty new to this type of testing so if something looks off in my picture or description, lemme know!

All help appreciated!
BR

 

My series 3 had similar issues twice, first time was trunk light not turning off, second time was the factory trip Computer, both are now disconnected!!!! Something to look into!!
what other modifications have you made? Not asking about electronics? Just curious about your build!!!

 

So far, so good.

Also pull the inline fuse (or circuit breaker) from the power door lock circuit. This will be somewhere under the RH side fuse box.

Might as well try pulling the inline fuses for the radio, power seat, horn, and cigarette lighters as well

Unplug the alternator

Cheers
DD

 

My passenger front door valet light wouldn't shut off and constantly drained my battery. I just took the bulb out. No more drain.

 

Thanks, guys! A few more things to check. I have unhooked the alternator, but can work through the rest of these items.

To answer the build question- it’s a 1986 Series III VDP, and I swapped an LS3 with manual TR6060 transmission (2013 Camaro donor) into it. It’s my first ever engine swap, and I’m thrilled that it runs!
Custom engine and transmission mounts and a lot of build advice came from Andrew at Jaguar Specialties.

Pretty much all the stock Jaguar dashboard and gauges work as intended. AC, radiator, and the like are a smorgasbord of parts from other cars or aftermarket (again big shout out to Andrew). Figuring out wiring was challenging but rewarding, and cutting into the transmission tunnel to make room for the stick was a “here goes nothing” moment.

Overall really happy with the project- learned a lot, and have been semi-dailying it for a couple months now.

 

You put in a standard. Wat to go. When my 4.2 kicks out. I'm putting in a carburetor small block 350/350. John's cars has the kit. Never thought of the standard though. Hanging the pedal and linkage sounds like a nightmare. Keeping the console stock is the only way I would do it. A few mods of course. Really interested to see how it pans out. Mine has the 2.88 rear.

 

The pedal is not bad- takes some finagling but some of the SIIIs were manuals and the holes are all there- I was able to fit a Jag 3-pedal box in without cutting anything.

With Andrew’s mounts the LS3/TR6060 lined up with the shifter pretty well as well. There’s a panel on top of the transmission tunnel
that can be removed for cutting. I did get a Sikky shifter relocator to get the stick where I wanted it.

 

Found ~1/2 the issue- previous owner had wired some kind of fan relay that appears to have controlled one of two aftermarket fans, perhaps to speed up engine warming?

In any case, pulling the fuse on that dropped the pull from 290mA to 140mA, so that’s progress.

When I did the engine swap I wired both fans together so they both engage with ignition, so no loss there.

I can poke around more in the future, but that’s great progress!

 

You might want to consider that instead of the fans coming on with ignition, you route it through a 30 second relay. That way the electric fans aren't on when you are starting the engine. Might be too much current draw on the battery when starter and fans are both engaged. Just a suggestion. I did that for the A/C, so it doesn't come on until the car is started.