Saw your post on the z28 site, cannot remember my login… lol. There are two temp senders on the lt1, be in drivers side head is for the gauge, I got the adapter to screw a jag temp sender in to it, and tied to jag harness, that way nothing kore to do to make jag gauge work!. Other one is on front of water pump, that’s a 2 wire for the pcm, there are no senders n passenger side head unless it’s been added by the po or like shoebox said maybe for a better, I deleted the oil level sensor in the oil pan and simply replaced with a plug, don’t remember how many wires were in that connector.
the only plug I had a hard time finding a place to plug in was the air temp sender, in the duct between throttle body and maf, the actual sender was missing on mine.
There is also an adapter (I’m sure you already know) that screws into oil pressure port to allow use of jag oil pressure sender, again maintains jag gauge.

 

Thanks Darren.
When I purchased the downpipes from Suncoast I also purchased the adapters for the oil and temp sending units.
Shoebox posted that the 2 wire sensor on the passenger side head only came in the LT1s for the Corvette.
I purchased the rubber duct from Summit and it came with the Air Temp Sensor.
I will probably switch back from Speed Density to Sequential after I get the engine up and running but to do so I will have to purchase a MAF sensor (not cheap).
Oil level Sensor on the list to delete even though I have the harness. I see a small leak down there. What plug did you use to replace the sensor.
Presently, I am in the process of Looming the Painless harness for neatness sake.
I am waiting on parts from GM partsdirect. Oil Dipstick tube (hope they send me the right one as it is discontinued) and Dipstick. O2 sensors and bungs.
I got a dipstick tube with the engine but it is badly kinked and the dipstick does not go in. If I do get it in, it pulls the dipstick tube out because the tang on the dipstick does not line up with any place to bolt it on. Do you have a pic of how it is affixed to the engine?

 

The plug is an m20 1.5 plug, same one used for ls so easy to find, got mine from Amazon, done have a picture on phone of dipstick, will try to remember to take one when I get home

 

Sanchez, picture of mine. 1995 Caprice.

Dave

 

Oops, I'll actually need to send that picture, I guess.

 

Thank you both.
My dipstick tube and dipstick arrived today. I will install it tomorrow and see how it goes.
From the looks of it, I will have to fabricate a small bracket to attach it to the exhaust manifold/engine.
Will post a pic tomorrow.

 

Here are the pics

New dipstick tube. looks like the old one. I will make a small bracket to affix it to the engine.

2 wire sensor on passenger side cylinder head

1 wire sensor on driver side cylinder head. I will remove this one and install the adapter to use the Jaguar temp sending unit.

Today, I wired up the 2 cooling fans with individual relays. I need to find a standalone wire from the ignition switch with power KOER (Key on engine running).
The KOER wires in the engine bay already have too many circuits attached. I will check and see which circuits I can do without.

 

1. There was a plug in the water Jacket on my LT1 on the passenger side. An off female box. I made a wrench on the grinder to fit.

2. My engine package included the bracket for the dip stick tube. The recycer tossed in tons of stuff. some I used, others i sold and some I have, unused.

3. The cats came with it. Wrong ones, I gave them to the muffler guy that did my pipes.

 

Sanchez, the bracket on your new tube attaches by a bolt into the threaded hole just above the blue wire in your second pic. For help with more KOER circuits, consider using a separate fused (batch) block for your circuits. Feed the block with a relay, fed by constant 12v and latched by a single KOER wire. Each of my auxiliary blocks are fed by 10ga wire from 30A relays. My second block is constant 12V.

Dave

 

LT1: The first picture shows the dipstick tube fully inserted. The bracket on the tube is pretty much where you see it. It is too high to bolt to anywhere on the engine. I will figure something out tomorrow. The dipstick tube is the part number given to me by the Chevy dealer. he pulled the number up using 1994 LT1 but ?????

 

Did you get the original dipstick with your engine? Try sticking it in the new tube and see how much, if any, comes out the bottom. Your tube looks identical to mine. Did the new tube come with a new dipstick?

Is the bracket in the same place as the original tube, relative to the top of the tubes? If the answer is no, and you did not get a matching dipstick with the new tube, you don't have the correct tube. The tube bracket is meant to attach at the blind hole in the block that I mentioned. Also, the tube should have a "bulge" near the bottom that stops it from being pushed into the block beyond a certain point. This the register-point that gives you the correct oil level when you are using the correct dipstick.

Dave

 

I got a dipstick tube and dipstick with the engine and it was fitting just like in the picture of the new dipstick tube. The bracket on the old was about just where the new one is.
I did get a new dipstick with the new tube and as you say it it is fully seated at the bulge. Below the 'bulge is an o-ring. Both dipsticks are the same length. The reason I changed it was that the old dipstick tube had a kink that would not allow the dipstick to go in smoothly and when it did it was very difficult to remove. I will just make up a bracket to affix the tube to the engine and be done with it.

 

Something doesn't seem right, but I won't belabor it. The ultimate check is to put 5qts of oil in the pan (assuming newer 6qt systems) and with tube/dipstick where you think they should be, you should see FULL on the dipstick.

Dave

 

The new dipstick tube I got was the wrong one. This morning I repaired the old dipstick tube. I found a long bolt that was the same size as the inner diameter of the tube.
OI tapped it in slowly while straightening the tube. Once I got it past the kink, I was able to hammer out the kink. In the process the tube split where the kink was.
Now nice and round I braised the split with a brass rod and filed it back and sanded it smooth to its original contour. There was no o- ring on the old tube so I just used some silicone to seal it in place. Now the bracket lines up with the bolt hole you spoke about. Filled it up with 5 quarts of oil and the dipstick reads on the money.
I will return the new dipstick tube and get my refund.
Thank you.

 

Darren and LT1 Jag:
Are your engines OBD1 or OBD11?

 

Mines obd1,

 

Thanks Darren. I have to convert my ALDL harness to OBD1. The OBD1 pigtail came with my Painless Harness.
I have the car wired up. They say if it is wired correctly, when you turn the ignition 'ON' the CEL should turn on. That is what is happening with mine.
I now have a 'NO CRANK' situation. I am using the Jaguar wiring for this part of the wiring.
This is what I have right now at the starter relay:
Constant Power on Brown Wire
Power on the White/Yellow with the key in the crank position
White/blue not relevant
The Green/Black wire comes from the Microswitch at the base of the gear selector. Is this a ground?
Which wire is the trigger wire for the relay to latch?

 

Sanchez, mine is also OBD1.

Dave

 

Yes, the GB from the park/neutral is the ground for the "latch" and the WY is the 12v for the latch when key is turned to START. Do you have a Solenoid wire running from C4 of the relay to small terminal on starter solenoid?

Dave

 

LT1: Yes. Everything is connected as it should. If I jump the relay the engine cranks.
I think the problem is with the G/B wire not creating a ground to latch the relay in 'PARK'.
I had to do some shifter cable adjustments for the 4L60E transmission so it might have thrown out the adjustment a bit.
I will revisit the linkage at the transmission to see if it is off. If not I can do some adjustments at the microswitch.
I will check to see if the microswitch is creating the ground needed for the starter relay as adjust as necessary.
I used the transmission package from Jaguar Specialties and I may have to re adjust the cable at the transmission end.
Thank you.